MonsterBrit
Well-Known Member
Woah at 5000mAh and 35C you'll be more than good to go. That's good for peak output of 175Amps. I think that's more than enough even for an aggressive 2200kV set up on a truck like that 
Good to hear. Can you explain to me the calculations you used to come up with those numbers? It could be helpful in the future.Woah at 5000mAh and 35C you'll be more than good to go. That's good for peak output of 175Amps. I think that's more than enough even for an aggressive 2200kV set up on a truck like that
HawnMT
Well-Known Member
5000 mah x 35C = 175000 miliamps or 175 amps
Cool, and how do I compare that number with the rating of the motor to know if the battery is capable of powering the motor?
I checked Castle's web site and it says the Monster/2200 combo is rated at 120Amps. Is that what I'm looking for?
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XStatic Dallas
Well-Known Member
Man I miss doing this stuff...Nice build man..
MonsterBrit
Well-Known Member
I think so yeah, Yama, 120Amps is the peak power rating for the ESC/motor rig, i.e. the most power it's gonna draw without cooking the ESC. Realistically it'll never draw that much unless you gear it with a large pinion and a very heavy truck. In a TXT-1 it'll be pretty aid back I'd think The ESC in my TXT1 is only 80A max running a 2250kV motor and it barely got warm on 3S with a 14 Tooth pinion.
The ESC in my TXT1 is only 80A max running a 2250kV motor and it barely got warm on 3S with a 14 Tooth pinion.C-blocks are finished!...
Front end...
Close up of front end block...
Dive shaft side of axle...
Underside of axle...
You can see in this picture that I had to remove some material for the lower link to clear the block (this problem was discussed a few posts back).
Clean looking rear axle shot...
If I was to make these again, there are a few things I would change, but overall I am happy with how they turned out. I need to get longer screws that go all the way through the axle.
Yama-Bro
Front end...
Close up of front end block...
Dive shaft side of axle...
Underside of axle...
You can see in this picture that I had to remove some material for the lower link to clear the block (this problem was discussed a few posts back).
Clean looking rear axle shot...
If I was to make these again, there are a few things I would change, but overall I am happy with how they turned out. I need to get longer screws that go all the way through the axle.
Yama-Bro
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oh, i forgot you had the ttr stuff in there.
you probably wont even need anything else, but i always like overkill.
i wish CPE still made the TXT lockouts that stick inside like the wasker mod.
i got a prototype set and they work very well. im gonna try to make a copy.
you probably wont even need anything else, but i always like overkill.
i wish CPE still made the TXT lockouts that stick inside like the wasker mod.
i got a prototype set and they work very well. im gonna try to make a copy.
I ran into a bit of a delay while trying to get the castle motor into my TXT...One of my friends who works in a factory told me that when he has some free time in his schedule he could cut some chassis plates on their CNC laser. I have been thinking about a custom frame for along time, so when he said he could do it, I dropped my castle motor, fired up SolidWorks and got to designing.
I've been in love with the CPE Stallion chassis since the first time I saw it. It's gorgeous. In my opinion, next to a well done tube frame, the Stallion looks the best. It seemed like a natural starting point for my frame. I designed my frame for a TXT with an E-maxx tranny from the start, not for a clod (although it may work for one). I based mine on the Samson monster truck frame made by Patrick Enterprises Inc. I'm going to have him cut it out of .156" aluminum.
I may make a few modifications before I send it to my friend. Let me know what you think, questions, comments, etc...
Here's the real monster truck frame I based the plates on...
Here's some SolidWorks RCMT eye candy...
Yama-Bro
I've been in love with the CPE Stallion chassis since the first time I saw it. It's gorgeous. In my opinion, next to a well done tube frame, the Stallion looks the best. It seemed like a natural starting point for my frame. I designed my frame for a TXT with an E-maxx tranny from the start, not for a clod (although it may work for one). I based mine on the Samson monster truck frame made by Patrick Enterprises Inc. I'm going to have him cut it out of .156" aluminum.
I may make a few modifications before I send it to my friend. Let me know what you think, questions, comments, etc...
Here's the real monster truck frame I based the plates on...
Here's some SolidWorks RCMT eye candy...
Yama-Bro
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that looks awesome, man!
if i were gonna make a change; maybe bring the chassis side of the upper links up a little.
the one thing that has always bugged me on the txt is the link setup not being scale.
the tops of the axles are so darn high that it throws off the option for parallel links.
(ive been trying to figure a way to lower the top mounts on the axle.)
:tmb
if i were gonna make a change; maybe bring the chassis side of the upper links up a little.
the one thing that has always bugged me on the txt is the link setup not being scale.
the tops of the axles are so darn high that it throws off the option for parallel links.
(ive been trying to figure a way to lower the top mounts on the axle.)
:tmb
TruckBasher
Member
Nice chassis...thats bad 00000...
I see what you are saying. I should have plenty holes that I can raise the upper link to so that I can acheive the parallel links. I'll give it a try when I build it up. Thanks!
Thanks man!
Yo TXT 2.0, That means a lot coming from you because I've had you new Era TXT saved on my desktop background for awhile. Thanks for the comment!
Hopefully the wait between sending the files to my friend and getting the parts doesn't take too long, I'll go crazy waiting:willy
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TXT-2.0
Mod Wrapper
THX man i appreciate that :tmb im really into my TXT-GP now as far as handling i think your new setup will rock if it handles anything like mine which i think it will :rock
i would lower it a touch IMO get the lower links level ...... keeps the center of gravity down :tmb
HawnMT
Well-Known Member
As always Yama, awesome modeling!:tmb
The only thing I would say to look at is the lower portions of the front and rear. As it sits right now there probably isn't any interference as the suspension cycles but if you decide to lower the stance any that crossmember might end up hitting the servo. Or the lower portions of the chassis will contact the axles. It's a problem right now when setting up the Ground Pounder chassis. I know it's common in RCs to run with a lot of belly clearance under the cradle but more and more you see the real trucks setup with very low clearance, including this new Samson.
[video=youtube;QiYOgp3bRL0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiYOgp3bRL0[/video]
The only thing I would say to look at is the lower portions of the front and rear. As it sits right now there probably isn't any interference as the suspension cycles but if you decide to lower the stance any that crossmember might end up hitting the servo. Or the lower portions of the chassis will contact the axles. It's a problem right now when setting up the Ground Pounder chassis. I know it's common in RCs to run with a lot of belly clearance under the cradle but more and more you see the real trucks setup with very low clearance, including this new Samson.
[video=youtube;QiYOgp3bRL0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiYOgp3bRL0[/video]
W
William
Guest
holy guacamole dip
That is WICKED cool, great looking chassis
maybe, maybe add a littlmore in the ''belly'' area to drop the lower links a little but hey, that looks GREAT
That is WICKED cool, great looking chassis
maybe, maybe add a littlmore in the ''belly'' area to drop the lower links a little but hey, that looks GREAT
^
yeah, actually i think dropping the belly a touch lower would be good.
also, something no one seems to do; extend the front and rear a little farther over the axles.
on a 1:1 the front and rear of the frame are over the axles and act kind of like a bumper.
is there a reason why in r/c they are typically shorter?
yeah, actually i think dropping the belly a touch lower would be good.
also, something no one seems to do; extend the front and rear a little farther over the axles.
on a 1:1 the front and rear of the frame are over the axles and act kind of like a bumper.
is there a reason why in r/c they are typically shorter?