Wonderin' about my e-maxx

[stone7223]

I have an E and after every 3 or 4 runs I have noticed that the spur gear seams to melt to the friction pegs this leaves me dead in the water with a cracked spur gear. At first I thought maybe the tension was too tight on the spring so I loosened it up a little and that only caused it to wear out faster. I am truly baffled by this and can't imagine everyone's E is like this. Can someone please help or show me their setup? Also I am in the market for a new alum. chassis for this truck, chassis, braces, susp. arms., the works, does anyone have any recommendations for that too? Thanks,
Nick

 

[MLambert19]

Nick, My guess would be that your pegs are either worn out, or that you're running the clutch too loose and it's slipping ALL the time, hence the heat and meltdown.

I'd buy some new extra pegs and use ALL available holes on the spur to put pegs in. Tighten the clutch all the way down (completely bottom the spring out) then loosen it up 1/4 of a turn.

Or try to find the RRP setup. I'm running the 72T steel RRP spur with the RRP clutch assembly in mine, and I think I need to loosen it rather than tighten it... I keep breaking things, so obviously the clutch isn't protecting anything.

As far as the alloy stuff goes, remember, that every aluminum piece adds weight; and that alloy stuff might not break like plastic, but it will still bend, or cause the piece next to it to break, in an impact. If it were me, I'd invest in drivetrain upgrades first... look at clutch upgrades, RRP Ring & Pinion Gears, CVD axles, steel idler gears, RPM bearing carriers, etc...

-Matt

 

[Digger]

I think Matt hit the nail on the head, so to speak. The melting is from the slipper being too loose, slipping too much and creating too much heat in the process which melts the gear and the pegs. Either get a new spur and fresh pegs, being sure to use all 12 instead of just 6 like it came with originally, or invest in the Robinson slipper setup. I have both and they both work fine, but if you are planning on running higher power than stock motor-wise, I would suggest the Robinson slipper setup...

I'm with Matt on the aluminum bits, too. Beef the drivetrain and maybe the steering first. It might not be as flashy as aluminum, but I run mostly RPM upgrade parts and they seem to be plenty durable(arms, bearing carriers, shock towers, etc...)

 

[Nutz4rc]

WHat werks fer me.......

On an Emaxx what has been a good measure of the slipper at a proper tension is to loosen the slipper and get on high traction carpet. Tighten it till it will just pop the front wheels up in the air on a full out launch on carpet. Short solid carpet not loose shag. You should hear a little slip and get the front wheels between 3 to 8 inches in the air. Once the truck will launch solid with you hearing some slip and a nice little wheelie you are pretty much optimum for drivetrain protection and good power transfer. When in doubt while doing this tighten the nut the smallest amount more you can move it and know it moved in on the shaft. The traction on carpet will not be matched on dirt until you land off a jump and the slipper will then be able to slip just enough to save your drivetrain. But should not slip enough to generate heat and melt spur gears. Done right you will still get wheelies especially running when the front tires are hitting bumps on acceleration. One other thing. IF you have this problem reoccur even after this you MAY have a weak spring. When you get the new parts to fix it grab a spring too. They can be damaged or just weak and will not hold a setting. Same for the nut. If the nylon in the locknut is wore out it will loosen no matter what. They are cheap so a new one of those is good insurance as well. Bill