What's wrong, white stuff on tires? _ & _ Rear diff, lock or unlocked?

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by Mo', Dec 17, 2008.

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  1. Apr 17, 2009 #21

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

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    BR and Devastator,
    I for one really appreciate your sharing of info and opinions. I am a rookie on the Cold racing and am trying to sponge up as much info as possible as I collect parts for my first real attempt at a race / freestyle machine. The irony of it is I don't even have any real racing close by that I know of but am the type that if I get something put together that is competitive I'll road trip, I am crazy that way! :willy Heck I have been thinking about going to the Worlds in NC just to check out what it is all about and I don't even have a complete truck yet! I am still digesting and trying to decide on diffs but that has led to trying to decipher 2 vs 4 wheel steering!?! Have I mentioned I am really digging this stuff! :rock
     
  2. Apr 18, 2009 #22

    DEVASTATOR

    DEVASTATOR

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    Defiance Racing Staff Member Site Administrator Super Moderator Moderator

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    Where you located at? The NRCTPA Spring NAtionals is two weeks away and if you're close to Ohio, that would be a great learning experience for you.

    If you are the only one in your area with a Clod, I'd say just go with the stock diffs and see what you think of them. Try it out and if you're ripping up gears, then maybe consider the ball diffs. 4WS will make the truck unstable if it's not properly limited. 4WS needs special consideration when setting it up. Two much throw and the truck is essentially undrivable at speed. A *good* 4WS setup will have the rear steer limited to only a few degrees of travel left or right.
     
  3. Apr 18, 2009 #23

    Boss302

    Boss302

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    TIRES
    Try Niftech. Its an agent for creating more grip in on road car. It's basically rubbing alchol. Which brings me to my next solution, rubbing alchol. Motor spray is, I believe, along the same lines as the other two products above. I could be wrong.

    Your tires will have more grip, be more suple, and probably last a little longer than with the other product.

    -Acetone, (the Jang's website shows it), just acetone and a GLASS caserole pan/dish, then pour a lil' in, (careful, I guess it's nasty:ack), and then w/a scrub brush, scrub-away, it looked & worked great for him, I just thought I'd share:tmb
    -BTW, you can buy at hardware stores, in a gallon drum, much better than having to cart a bunch of nail polish remover:) Also, rubber gloves & goggles are a good idea---and before anybody asks me, I DO NOT MEAN, rubber goggles:tong
     
  4. Apr 19, 2009 #24

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

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    Man I would love to go and see what it is all about but the good ol' Army has me on the road for the next 3 weeks straight. Otherwise I would jump on running the timing lights for you guys. I curretnly live in good ol' LA, not the Hollywood kind the lower Alabama kind. Stationed down at Fort Rucker.

    That is the exact route I will probably go witht he diff's. Only worry is that later I'll decide I want ball diffs' and there will be none to be had!

    I am deep into the research on the four wheel steering stuff and understand completely on it is an exact science to get right. Just seems that if and when you do get it right it would be wicked fast. I think the PRP servo horn for limiting travel authority makes a lot of sense and even with that the perfect world in my limited knowledge would be having it selectable so you only have it when you want it. That coupled with a high end, high torque digital servo that will hold a very precise nuetral. I am not smart enough yet to know if the best way to do this is with a expensive radio that allows you to configure channels, a radio specifically design for this application such as the RC4WD crawler radio, a modified 3 channel, servo cutoff switch, Clod Racing's rear steer kit, etc.. :willy Too many choices! I am seeing Clods in my sleep!

    Guess thats what makes this stuff so addicting!
     
  5. Apr 19, 2009 #25

    DEVASTATOR

    DEVASTATOR

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    I've tried the independent rear steer and it is very cool to have. To use it for racing is very tough. VERY tough. When you race, if you have to "think" about a turn, you're done. You'll mess it up every time. I'm not saying it can't be done and be perfected, but the time it would take to master that would be outrageous.

    I have driven Clods with the PRP chassis and rear steer and while it does steer very well, I will still stick with a good strong front steering only setup. If you have the right front steering setup, rear steer is not necessary IMO. Everybody is different though.
     
  6. Apr 19, 2009 #26

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

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    Very interesting! How about this riddle. Do you think it would be worth it to have a race capable truck setup with selectable rear steer? Like I was mentioning above, a very high quality digital servo on either a 3rd channel or a cutoff switch that you could in essence "lock out" when racing but then utilize for the freestyle? Some of the digital metal / titanium servos are very precise and have crazy holding power that probaly rivals a regular rear steer lockout so that would not be the issue I dont think?? Would this little bit of extra weight disadvantage your race performance? With where motor technology is heading I think we will actually be looking for ways to slow these things down and keep them planted before long anyway! Thoughts?
     
  7. Apr 20, 2009 #27

    TurnMeOver

    TurnMeOver

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    Mike, thanks for the info. That is right along the lines of what I have been thinking about.
     
  8. Apr 21, 2009 #28

    DEVASTATOR

    DEVASTATOR

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    Like I said, I had the exact setup you are referring to........ a rear servo setup on a 3rd (seperate) channel. It was self centering so you had full control of the rear servo on a seperate channel. IMO and it is just my opinion, it was too difficult to use in a racing situation. Anything else, it is fine to have and very fun. But to use it in racing, like I said, it makes for too much to think about.
     
  9. Apr 21, 2009 #29

    The Enforcer

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    There are a few different ways you can configure an optional rear steering setup. Some radios have the option of having different profiles, which can be setup for a specific task. For example, with the Hitec Aggressor CRX, which has a servo mixing feature, you can use several model memory modes for the same truck, but have a different steering mode for each one. That way, each model memory can be preset to a desired steering setup and a certain degree of throw.

    For example, when I had this setup on my Clods, I used one model memory for front steering only, and had the 3rd channel servo programmed to where it didn't throw at all. The second mode was limited 4WS, where I had the rear steer programmed to throw 15%. With the Aggressor, you can have the rear steering throw at whichever percentage you prefer. The last mode was donut mode where the rear axle had full throw. To switch between the modes, you just hold down the func. button (to switch models), leave it in that feature, and then use the + & - keys to scroll up and down to the different profiles. I wouldn't recommend switching profiles during a race though, because you might have to glance down at the radio screen to ensure that you're on the right profile. The downside to using these particular 4WS profile setups is that, while you can dial the rear steering to throw as far as you want, both axles will turn at the same time, and the rear steering is not independently controlled. That can be a good or bad thing depending on your driving preference.

    Another racing option, for better stability and a more limited rear steer setup, the Team PRP rear steer limiter can be used on the rear servo saver. This way, one profile can be used for 2WS, and any other profile(s) for limited 4WS, and you're not limited to just 2WS or 4WS for racing. In 2WS mode, the rear axle is not as sturdy as it would be with a lockout kit or straight axle, but a servo with strong holding power should be able to hold it steady.

    You can also configure the Aggressor profiles differently, so it is independently controlled, and the rear axle throws in one direction via push buttons. One mode can be rear steer full throw left (or whichever throw percentage you prefer) , the 2nd mode can be centered and also 2WS mode, and the 3rd mode can be full throw right. That way, you can leave the radio in mode #2, and then use the + & - keys to turn the rear steer left or right, but it will have to be manually self centered back to mode #2 each time.

    Then there's the fully independently controlled rear steering option that's been mentioned. There are some radios out there that have capability from the factory, but I modded my TQ3 radio with push buttons after seeing Eric Krush originally do that with this TQ3. It's full throw either direction unless you limit the throw mechanically by moving the mounting point for the linkage on the servo horn/saver closer to the servo center, or using the PRP limiter. The truck I use this in is my primary freestyle truck, and sometimes I run a locker in the rear, so I use a metal servo horn and Hitec 5955 Titanium Gear servo, since a servo saver might not hold the rear wheels locked in one direction, like when doing a donut.

    Here's a picture of the push button rear steer setup:
    [​IMG]

    As for the ball diffs, I have the TTR ones and I like them a lot. In one of my Clods, I have the rear one tightened all the way down with pliers, and the front snug down with pliers, but not all the way down. It can cause a hard push in the corners sometimes, but it helps a lot in freestyle. It helps pull the truck down on all 4's sometimes when you're on 2 wheels. Here's a save I pulled off, that might not have been possible without the aid of the ball diffs keeping some traction to the tires on the ground. About 22 seconds in: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dBLfoqT27g&fmt=18

    The ball diffs are prone to wear and tear though. I've rounded off the centers for the brass hexes due to hard use over time.
    [​IMG]


    Running a locked diff in the rear does help with donuts, especially with 4WS, but if you're running on concrete, you might want to upgrade to CVDs, as the stock axles can literally twist right off. The CVDs are not indestructible, as I have broken one of those as well, but they are more durable than the stock axles, especially if you're running a locker.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2009
  10. Apr 21, 2009 #30

    TurnMeOver

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    Ton of awesome information fellas, thanks! I agree that I am not sure that 4 wheel steer is something to mess with on a race course (especially with my cat like coordination!) but still think it would be cool to lock it out with a really good digital servo for racing and then kick it on when it is time to turn the truck loose in freestyle. I think I will start with a 2 wheel steer setup till I get my legs under me but could very well at some point want to tinker with the four wheel stuff. That being said I am leaning towards one of the higher end computerized FASST / Spectrum style radios to have the ability to do it all tru the radio to include mixing. Seems that would give the most flexability to tweak it and adjust it to the driving style you are after. They are just very expensive so that is why I have been picking everyones brain. I he looked at all options as far as how to do it, just seems to me that the high radios are the cleanest setup. I really appreciate the sharing of info guys! Haven't quite made up my mind on the diffs yet, got side-tracked by steering!

    Well its official. After right at about a year of trying everything under the sun I have joined the small (but die-hard) group of ball diff followers! Now I just have to stock pile as many as I can while you can still readily find them.:willy
     
  11. Aug 30, 2010 #31

    booggieman2u

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    I used simple orange on my txt-1 tires to that white gunk off and it work good I don't know if it soften the compound of the rubber but I only run off road and on carpet so doesn't matter to me lol but it did get it of and made them look good
     
  12. Sep 13, 2010 #32

    CrumpleZ0ne

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    how will you get parts to rebuild the ball diffs if they quirt making them ?
    rings, balls, thrust bearings all wear out

    its integy=crap and its a metal gear so sure its integys soft **** metal:ack
     
  13. Sep 17, 2010 #33

    CrumpleZ0ne

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    I used Back to Black on some tires that had a white film on them and that seemed to work well.. it's not cheap though, like 10 bux on amazon.. I would think you could get it at Kragen or something though..
     
  14. Sep 18, 2010 #34

    Ball Racing

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    I had a integy one,
    they basically copied exactly the First Thundertech one.
    It is already together, and has little lube on the inside.
    The pressure plates are very course finished.

    And in the process of tightening it down to where I wanted it, the threads striped!!
    There are NO instructions with it, so someone who has never had a ball diff in a clod won't know what to do with it.

    I just tossed mine in the thrash can, never used it, 45 bucks wasted..
     
  15. Nov 13, 2010 #35

    SysError

    SysError

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    I run open stock diffs with very heavy grease in them, turns well and will still climb like mad
     
  16. Sep 30, 2012 #36

    Master_Shake

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    kinda of a old thread but its stickied so im gonna put my .02 about locked diff or not.


    well from my experience im running front and rear axles Locked(hotglued) and its still holding after 2 months of running it everyother day and also jumping down a set of 4, 2 foot drop offs ina row(ill get a vid itll be on my main thread for my clod when i ever get a new battery) my lipo just died a few days ago i think, it cut off with half its life left so i think it went pooy. no smoke tho but it only charged 2500mah out of 5000mah... but on to the Locked diff or not i do run my front and rear locked. locked my rear up first, actually handled better then when i ran open diffs(and im running 1 servo on the front axle so rear steer is locked out) locked the other axle i can turn sharp enough now i can flip it everytime i would turn sharp now this thing takes some skill to drive with no problems, one reason why i wont let anyone else drive it around really lol. but at my LHS they have a Track meant for Slash's and i can keep up with a stock slash if it goes the same style of line and no go over extreme jumping since my clod cant do that but ont he corners and straights and the small jumps my clod can keep up witha stock brushed slash if i try hard enough tho with diffs locked... when i had my diffs unlocked at the track at my LHS i would have to stop and reverse on some of the corners now i dont even have to think of slowing down unless i make a derp move(lol).... or my servo messes up again lol(like i did last time i was there i actually tried jumping their big jump and i clipped the wall lol broke some servo arms), had a fun time, wasted money i wasnt supposed to spend, thats all that matters right? lol
     

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