What's wrong, white stuff on tires? _ & _ Rear diff, lock or unlocked?

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by Mo', Dec 17, 2008.

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  1. Dec 17, 2008 #1

    Mo'

    Mo'

    Mo'

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    Its getting really frustrating.. Ever since they were new my stock clod tires had what I thought was mold release on them but every time was them it only gets nastier, thicker and worse.


    I have gone as far as to use a toothbrush between every lug with water a dish soap and warm water and they look great until they dry and look like poop again.


    Its literally like a film. If you take a finger and rub it it will gum up and bead off. Anyone know whats going on here? I havent seen anything like it and I need some ideas to get them looking good again!


    Some pics.

    [​IMG]


    After a quick rub.
    [​IMG]

    So even my washing it in dish detergent wont take it off? I just dont get why it keeps coming back.


    Ill get some simple green tomorrow and try it.
     
  2. Dec 17, 2008 #2

    cpe mt

    cpe mt

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    It's mold release. We have a few sets of new Clod tires that are like this as well. Soaking and scrubbing in simple green seemed to work.

    You can see it on these tires:
    [​IMG]

    On ours, it seemed to actually be into the rubber itself, rather than just on top of it.

    I also noticed that the new tires with the mold release were noticeably harder than other sets of new tires that didn't have the residue on them.

    Try "Armor-All"


    Alfy

    I used Armor-All on the set i got from you Brett, worked fine for me.
     
  3. Dec 17, 2008 #3

    william g

    william g

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    armor all will cause the tire to crack and dryrot over time.

    There is a FAA regulation stating NOT to use armorall on rubber bladders and wing de-icers. Why, because what happens is the armor all seals the rubber not letting it breath. So the rubber cracks and if the de-icer boot has a crack it cannot hold air to inflate deflate to break wing ice.


    Been using lemon pledge on rubber products for a nice look instead ever since I read that mandate.

    So try the simple green, it's a great cleaner and works well on rubber products.
     
  4. Dec 17, 2008 #4

    Haulin CO2

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    I have never had this happen to any of my tires and I have had them for awhile :)


    Alfy
     
  5. Dec 17, 2008 #5

    william g

    william g

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    Alfy, I just figure if the FAA makes it a law so a plane won't crash there must be something to back it up. :rof
     
  6. Dec 17, 2008 #6

    Haulin CO2

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    I hear what your saying :wnk


    Alfy
     
  7. Dec 18, 2008 #7

    twisted8

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    It takes a while to get it off,
    armor all or the like, just masks whats really underneath.
    I noticed this with the last set of clod tires I got about a year ago.

    Try some brake cleaner or acetone, on a rag, and rub them down,
    then hit them with some WD40, and rub that down.

    wd40 will work too.that will also soften the tires up.

    the only pair of clod tires that i bought new have the white stuff on them, but they grip a heck of a lot better than the other stock clod tires i have. i just cleaned the bead with motor spray as i do with any other tire, and they've stuck fine since day 1.
     
  8. Dec 18, 2008 #8

    chvman

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    Hmmm Interesting

    I had always heard that Armor All would cause cracks but never knew why. Now I know thanks for the info. One question though is does using Pledge or WD40 cause any handleing issues?
     
  9. Dec 18, 2008 #9

    Mo'

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    The WD worked pretty well, just need to get some more since I used up the tiny bit I had left on half a tire tonight.


    Little time consuming but that film was driving me insane.


    Thanks for all the help guys!
     
  10. Feb 24, 2009 #10

    TurnMeOver

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    Rear Diff Questions?

    Rear diff locked or unlocked?

    I have searched and read everything I could find but am looking for the "latest' info. What is the general opinion / thoughts on running a locked vs. unlocked diff in clod style race trucks? I realize there is no majic bullet for all surfaces or track types but would like to hear some thoughts or discussion... Locked, unlocked, stiffened up with different grease thickness, etc?!? Thanks in advance for any and all info from the guys that have learned it thru the scholl of "hard knocks"!
     
  11. Feb 24, 2009 #11

    Ball Racing

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    Well all the carpet guys say all stock diffs.
    Then some that really don't want to tell you ,(including some who hit dirt ocassionally) say they do run a thorp or TTR in the rear only.

    I run Thundertech ball diffs front and rear, but I am not fast ,
    or a turning course person,
    or a carpet racer.

    So most everyone will tell you stock,
    but I hate the fact or hearing them click on a jump, and replacing gears (but hey, most guys say they don't do that either):)
     
  12. Feb 25, 2009 #12

    1rcmonster

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    On a racetype clod or wk I would suggest an open diff or ball diff. I just finished a race type clod and left my diffs open, I only run front steering on it so leaving the diffs open help with turning. On my basher Bounty Hunter clod both diffs are locked but it is also set up with 4 wheel independent steering. With a rear only locked diff you are going to suffer from poor steering as well, it tends to push like a dump truck....
     
  13. Apr 13, 2009 #13

    monsterjamfan1

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    how much does a locked diff mess with steering. im not a racer but i have compititions with my friends and all i need to do is slide around a few tight corners on grass and concrete. the only reason i want to lock the diff is for the freestyle part of our compitition.:willy
     
  14. Apr 13, 2009 #14

    Hippie

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    ive had clods for years i would never run one with out ball diffs front and rear still have plenty of steering
     
  15. Apr 14, 2009 #15

    tamiyatim

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    I run an aluminum spool in the rear of mine, but I also have 4 wheel steering..

    I like it, because it drives just like the real thing... when I do donuts, it picks one of the front wheels up off the ground, and spins around tornado style...

    Plus I like to be able to break the rearend loose and get it sideways when I'm running in the dirt.. Looks just like the digger coming around a corner at Monster Jam.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2009 #16

    TurnMeOver

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    Thanks! Thats the kind of stuff I am after. I am currently working on a one off clod type rig with a lot of Wheely King to it. I know most of the hardcore race types say the WK is not a good race option but who would have thought back when they released the Clod it would be what it is today right? Or maybe it just comes back to "let's tie a key to the kite and see what happens! :willy". Anyway it has really revamped my interst in the RC monster scene (very first truck was a USA-1) so thats what is important. I really appreciate and enjoy hearing everybodys ideas on the forum. This is a cool place!!

    Thanks for all the replys and thoughts on this. Working on gathering parts for a race clod right now. Different application than what I started this thread for but exact same issue. I am really considering the TTR ball diff's but hate the fact they are being discontinued. Dropping that kind of coin on a part you know, when you buy, is already being discontinued and probably won't have repalcement parts for just doesn't pass the smarts test....

    If somebody would just make a sealed diff for the Clods that we could fluid tune! :wish
     
  17. Apr 17, 2009 #17

    Boss302

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    i run open and locked axles. depends on the surface. honestly i like open diffs. less weight too. but then you have locked diffs for loose surfaces. i've found that if you have 4ws and the rear just locked it turns right about the same as an open diff. maybe a lil less. i like open diffs though IMO
     
  18. Apr 17, 2009 #18

    Ball Racing

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    A bag of stock gears are 7-8 bucks a bag,
    you can run all the stock gears, and run strong motors, land a jump a fist full of times, and have to replace the center gear because you crack a tooth on it..
    They don't sell that gear seperate, so another 8 bucks,
    go bash, and another 8 bucks.
    a ball diff 40 bucks, don't break anything again...

    Yes, Yes carpet guys say they don't land full power,or they usaully run less speed, and jump off 4 -6 inch ramps on their courses..

    I have Never cracked a gear while using a ball diff.
    They slip on landings to save the other gears.
    You can buy the little diffs balls from anyone to replace them on the TTR diff,
    and when the pressure rings wear, turn them over, and go again..
    I have worn down the main plasitic gear on the TTR but, I had a ton of dirt dust in there that ate it away..

    When a ball diff slips it doesn't place all of the load into the gear case like run a stock gears or a locked diff does,
    you can crack gearcases that way...

    More people that have Never used a ball diff
    will tell you not to run one ,
    than people that have run them and figured out what to do with them
    get a chance to tell about their good side effects..

    Not everybody runs outside in the wide open where you strecth these things out , and jump BIG air,
    and not everybody runs in motel lobbies and jumping off cereal boxes..

    So go with what works on your truck, and your running space.
    But it may take several set-ups to find it out.:tmb

    Don't buy the Integy one,,
    It's junk, and just a copy cat of the first style TTR one.
    I went to snug mine down, and the threads all striped..........
    And is course machined in areas..
     
  19. Apr 17, 2009 #19

    DEVASTATOR

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    Good thing there's a top "expert" on all things Clod here to help everybody out. What would we do without that "expert" help:willy

    Someone already posted about how the steering can be restricted using locked diffs. I personally have never locked mine but I have watched trucks race with locked diffs and they push badly. Now, with 4WS it might be different but I have not seen 4WS and locked diffs to know how it reacted.

    As far as stock vs ball diffs goes, both are good IMO. I've seen both in action and I can't say either has a major down side to it. If you start running really fast setups, the ball diff will probably be better especially if you plan to jump a lot.

    In terms of a race clod, there are many variables to consider. the running surface is the big thing and how much power you plan to send down the drive train. I raced dirt a little bit but not enough to give a good opinion on it. I do have extensive experience on carpet and if you are really aggressive, you will crunch gears a lot. It mostly depends on your driving style. I tend to try to ease off with the jumps to keep the wheels on the ground but some guys really air it out and that's where you start crunching gears.

    With BL and Lipo becoming more popular (and affordable) there will be some *crazy* fast/powerful setups to be had for a clod. If you go high power/fast, a ball diff is probably the way to go......especially if you're looking to jump a lot or freestyle.

    Nothing is bullet proof. The harder you run something the quicker parts wear out. Ball diffs are no exception.

    My main reason for not going to ball diffs for carpet racing is that I race a lot of Clods at the events I goto and when performance starts to drop (increased slip), I can't be bothered with trying to keep up with adjustments. Stock gears might break easier but I can go several events and never have to open a tranny case to replace a gear. Once in a while, you have no choice but to do it but I can handle a tear-down here or there.

    Everybody's situation is different and it's all in what you want to do and have time for. You have some good info in this topic to make a good decision about what to do.
     
  20. Apr 17, 2009 #20

    Ball Racing

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    The instant power of brushless is so hard on the ball diffs..
    I had a mamba 7,700 set-up in my clod for a while and without dialing the power, and punch, and start power way down, it was death on the rear diff.
    I could jump big air, get the nose to high, and blip the brake, and it would lock the tires so fast it would slip the ball diff, and you would hear it bark in the air........

    If you crank it down hard enough to not slip under accelleration , the truck just would wheely so bad, and if you let it slip any, it would sound a like you kicked someone's dog!!
    It will wear grooves in the pressure rings, and flat spot the balls,
    once it get gritty feeling, you need to rebuild.
    Use a grease like racers edge heavy duty diff grease, and not that thin clear stuff that come With the diffs.
    The same ball diff set-up from fast brushed to brushless just don't work to well.

    You have to be extra smooth driver for brushless.
    I never ran 4,600 or 5,700 mambas to comment on how they shock loaded the gears...
    I did run the 6,900 mamba also, but it was just as aggesive as the 7,700 I thought..
    I tried the first style TTR diff with the lesser amount of balls, and the latest version,(has double the balls) the latest actually gave me more trouble with brushless.
    But I like the latest version on Brushed.
    I slip the rear just a touch for instant full power launches.
    You cannot set them up according to what TTR has in the instructions
    they will slip for 20 feet if you do that, and just burn it up, and wonder why your truck is so dead slow moving out.
    Oh course your HP will determine what the slip point is, or needs to be.
    Some 13-17 turn will probably never hurt one, or make it slip bad.

    But 10 turn and ranker motors test the limits, also test if you can keep the front end on the ground..
    Also what pinion your run changes the torque at that moment sent into the diff, and how it would slip or not..
     

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