OK, I know this is kinda late but I finally got around to beefing up a set of axles so I could do this write up. It's funny because I've never done all these mods at once so it took longer than I had estimated. As most of you know, out of the box TXT axles are very strong. But when you start adding weight and/or doing serious jumping, the weak points in the axles start to show. So I figured I'd do a write of what I've done to strengthen the axles to handle the added abuse. Some of these are well known mods, some of them are things I came up with. WEAK POINTS I've numbered these in order of most important to least. 1) Differential screws: The diff screws have a tendency to back out in high torque applications. It'll sound and act like you stripped the gears but when you open up the axle you'll see the diff has opened up. 2) Top Link Mounts: The way they are stock each post carries the load of one link. Problem is when you land awkward or run into something, a single post can take the brunt of the force and crack. 3) Axle "C"/ears and kingpin area. Weak point only if your truck is heavy and you do moderate jumping or if you do a lot of big air jumps. I've had them crack mid way down the "C" amd right at the kingpin hole. 4) I've only broken the housing at this area once but I've seen it cracking in this area on a few TXTs. It really only happens when the plastic gets old and brittle. You can tell when the plastic is brittle when you screw the top cover on and the screw hole splits. If you look closely you can see post for the front screw for the top cover was cracked and I repaired it. HOW TO: Overall the lighter the better. The lighter you can get your truck the easier it will be on parts. Also not going overboard with power helps. 1) The fix for the diff is simple, blue loctite. While it's possible to use red loctite I wouldn't recommend it. Although you can heat up the diff to loosen the loctite it's too easy to strip those small M2 screws so I would stick to blue. And since those 3-prong star shafts have a tendency to break you may have to open the diff up in the future. 2) Top Link Mounts. The brace is a common and effective fix for this.It ties the two posts together so they share the load. Here is Yama-bro's design: and what it looks like mounted: 3) Axle "C" and kinpins. In order to brace this area I use epoxy. You have two common choices, each with it's own pros and cons. The first type is the regular two-part epoxy made by Devcon, Permatex, and Loctite. It sets in about 7 minutes and dries smooth and semi clear but doesn't adhere as the other choice. The second is made by the same companies and called either Bonder or Plastic Weld. It sets in 5 minutes and dries cream colored and can be rough but it sticks extremely well. I like the regular epoxy for this area because you'll have time to work with it and get it in the places you want. start by sanding the area inbetween the channel braces and area around the kingpin: Next carefully work the epoxy in the channel and on the ear. If you lay the housing at an angle the the epoxy will "puddle" in the channel. It should look like this when it dries. 4) Lower Link mount and canti mount perches. For this area I use the Bonder/Plastic Weld type epoxy because it sets fast and sticks well. First sand the corners of the boxes. Place the Bonder in those corners being careful not to get too close to the housing seams. If you do you'll end up gluing the housings together. Because it dries cream colored it's very obvious so I hit with my dremel sanding drum then paint it flat black to hide it. While I won't say these mods "bulletproof" the axles they do add strength to some critical areas and it's a much cheaper option to buying aluminum housings. I run my axles just like this, even in my brushless truck, plastic knuckles and all. I have never had an axle crack or fail in racing or bashing with these mods.