TXT-1 - First Try...Again! (Build Thread)

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Evening gentlemen!

Tonight was a lazy night. Considering I still haven't received my ball bearings. I did however get my decals and lexan sheets...
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
but they sure dont help! seems they allow it to happen more, even though they dont cause it to happen.
:bang

i noticed that just removing the cants on an otherwise stock TXT, the torque twist was diminished.
then switching to better, shorter, and stiffer shocks it was even better.
with some adjustment to the rear corner, it was almost gone.
:tmb
If you place shorter and heavier shocks, then place them straight up and down,
you have limited your travel, and some of the room for twist to occur.

But in the same token,
heavier oil, and spring rates make cantilevers stiffer.

But on that note, you don't want to depend on a spring to keep the axle from twisting. Because then it's compromised to travel you need to absorb the terrain.

This brings us back to sway bars.
Heavy as it takes is what you need, if you like a truck thats doesn't bounce around, and land big air jumps good.
Notice the wheely king stock with the rigid plastic brace to keep the twist out, not the springs,
or the twin force
which using a ladder bar-link that does not allow twist, so you can run softer oil, and spring set-up.
I use 5/32 music wire on the rear of my jugg.
I have the shocks on the 4 links, so I have great amount of suspension travel, just as much as if I had cantilevers.

If you make straight shocks work better that cantilevers,
you needed to change your springs, and oil on the cants.

If you need to put aggresive springs to reduce twist,
you should keep putting bigger sway bars on.
 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
On my last TXT I tried the New Era sway bar - with VERY limited results. Their setup wasn't robust enough to get a good clamp on the wire they use. As a result, after one run the stabilizer bar would loosen on the wire, rendering it ineffective. I also tried heavier oil (70wt) but that seemed to make almost no difference.

In the end, the play in the cantilevers caused enough tilt to be unacceptable to me.

For this build I'll start with stock E-Maxx shocks and see how that works. I have HPI Savage shocks in reserve if I want to regain some travel.
 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
The bearings finally arrived! Made a lot of progress today.

First step was to clean the differentials from my break-in procedure, then stuff them with automotive grade bearing grease, and loc-tite the screws.



 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Once the diffs were ready, it was time to put the axles together - I must say, I was disappointed that my bearing set didn't include the 6mm X 11mm X 4mm bearings needed for the input shafts to the axles. I ended up having to clean and lube the old ones as best as I could (one was pretty gritty...meh).



More grease!
 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Once the axles were together - my upgraded links with Revo spec links went on the chassis, as did the sponsor plates.

I decided to run the truck backwards. On "Jeffs TXT Page" he discussed reversing the trucks front-and-rear and the affect it had. Since weight shits to the rear on heavy acceleration anyway, I figure this will help turning without compromising stability. Worst case scenario I just reverse my motors / servos later on and go back to the stock configuration.



I also managed to score 2 new bodies on ebay for $20. One pre-painted and one clear - WITH the original decals. I'm waiting to do something special with the clear body...
 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Evening all. Got a lot accomplished this evening. Got the axles mounted, steering setup, and even took her for a quick spin around the basement! A few notes:

1. To make it easier to remove the lower links from the axle, thread a bolt through the opposite side of the gray-guard that the link attaches to and use it as a stud. If you don't do it this way you have to get an allen wrench on the bolt which is nearly impossible.

2. The E-Maxx spec Traxxas shocks are money. They provide the PERFECT stance with plenty of suspension travel.

3. When installing axles with Revo links (and vertical shocks) approach it in this order:
- Mount the shocks on the axle-guard FIRST
- Mount the links on the chassis
- Install the axle by slipping the drive shaft together, then attach the lower links first, then mount the shocks to the chassis, then finally, attach the upper links.

 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Well, here's the finished product. I actually laughed out loud (alone...in my basement...) for a good 3-5 minutes once I got the tires and body on. This truck has the EXACT stance I wanted. Relatively low profile, I think it looks just like a full-size monster.

Having the 3rd channel for the rear-steer is also awesome. Watching the truck crab-walk, then spin in circles was too cool to describe. This truck is now my favorite out of the entire fleet...and I haven't even driven it outside yet.

Other notables - with the vertical shocks the rear steer is GREATLY diminished, I'm quite pleased about that.

I still need to tune the front / rear toe, clean the rims, and glue the tires - but this one is a wrap!

If any of you have questions, please ask!

 

joe

ɹoʇɐɹʇsıuıɯpɐ
Site Administrator
Super Moderator
Moderator
looks good, man.
i love txt builds.
:tmb
 

bsrboy

Well-Known Member
Took it for it's first run this weekend! Running the rear steering off the 3rd channel is money. Truck is a total blast - I should have videos soon!
 
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