Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by HawnMT, Sep 6, 2012.
Thanks Kent for going so in depth on this review. It's very good information.
This morning while debating whether or not to shave the tires I was tossing one in the air and noticed something odd, it WOBBLED! After taking a closer look I found the tire isn't molded evenly, yet another quality control issue. When you look at the tire head on it's the left side of the tire that's the problem. On just the left side, about half the carcass on that side(so a quater of the tire) is thin and the other half is thicker, and you can feel it. Also on that side, where the carcass is thickest the sidewall is thin. I spent part of this morning shaving the inside to even it out and it helped, but it's still not perfect. Not sure if I'm going to do anything about the sidewall, I was thinking about adding some shoe goo to the thin part to help stiffen it up. I'm going to add this to the original post about the tires.
Bill, could you check your tires to see if they are the same?
Also just to let you guy's know Rocky Law joined up on the site. He still couldn't see this thread though, I think he was waiting to be approved. Anyway I had emailed earlier about the bearing issue and he's going to contact the factory about it because the sample they sent had full bearings. Hopefully he can also talk to them and get some of these other issues addressed. If they can fix up this truck I think they'll have much better sales.
ask rocky about the aluminum parts he has coming...hopefully we get a top-link mount out of aluminum...
i'd also love to have aluminum axle housings, as i was working on mine yesterday, and saw that i cracked another case...that's (another reason) why it was making weird noises at the last race...too lazy to replace it, so i just wrapped zipties around it...lol...
"Rocky Law" is in I just checked.
I'll look at the tires in the AM and see what's up.
Hay Kent I just seen the video review! And I liked it! Any updates? How did the drive shafts handle,and what about the stock transmission? And lastly did you use brushed or brushless system?
Awesome review, Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Well I started the rebuild, but before I get to that I found another quality control problem that ended up taking up some time. When I was looking at one of the body post mounts I noticed it was missing a screw so I tried to put one in and it wouldn't go. After taking a closer look I saw what appeared to be a broken screw in the hole.
Well it ended up being worse than a screw, it was a broken tap. After pretty much destroying the area around it to get it out I filled in the mini bomb crater that I created with alumalloy.
It was late last night when I finished so I forgot to take a bare pic after I drilled and tapped the new hole but here's the finished product. It was a major pain to get that fixed.
I'm going to update the info on the chassis to reflect this.
After dealing with the tire issue and this I've gotten a little behind schedule but I'm sure I can still make it by Sunday.
As I stated earlier I tried to fix the tire wobble by shaving the inside of the tires where the tire was thickest. Ended up I got two tires pretty well balanced and two tires with a very slight wobble but much better than stock. That took a few hours of work to get sorted out along with a couple of hours to fix the chassis issue above.
Now on to the rebuild!
I started by assembling the axles. I loctited the diffs, greased the gears, and epoxied the axles. I won't go into great detail about this since it's covered in the sticky in this section:
Here's a pic of the raw epoxy:
And after sanding and painting:
Then I worked on the front steering knuckles. I did some light dremeling to get the little kingpin washers in(both top and bottom). The washers are brass washers from the hardware store, the only thing I did was open up the hole a little to fit loosely on the kingpin screw. I shaved the steering stops off and dremeled the knuckle for more steering angle. I still have to do a little work to the stub shaft. I wasn't going to do it if I didn't have to but the stock stub shafts really limit the movement.
The motor I'll be usings is this Aeolian 4-pole 4370kv brushless motor.
I got the trans assembled and the motor mounted using the stock 15T pinion. I also modded the trans for the revo driveshaft yokes and mounted it all in the chassis.
Since I want to run 4 inch shocks I did a mod I used to do to the center shock mount. But I didn't use the Clone's part because this is permanent so I used a genuine TXT part for this. I basically shave off the outer holes that the stock shocks use and will now use the holes that are more in the middle.
Here's how it looks mounted on the chassis. I will be removing the bumpers and using loctite on the chassis crossmember screws. The body posts are my own TXT ones, the winner will get the full length stock Clone ones.
To be continued..........
That's stupid that a company will let something like that broken tap in the product out the door. I have a Q. to ask, the shock mount mod does what, like lower the truck some or something else.
If I used the same length shock as the stock shocks then it would lower the truck But I'm doing the mod so everything pretty much stays in the same place but I'm going to have a longer shock which means I'll have more suspension travel. I could've left the mount alone and mounted longer shocks but then I would have had to cut those little tabs that stop the shocks from travelling too far(they do the same job as limiting straps) and the truck would have sat higher. Also cutting off those tabs can be a bad thing because now the cantilevers can rip the rod end right off the shock.
sidewalls seem similar side to side on mine
what I do see is looking through the tire the bead is a consistant thickness on 1 side, flip the tire and the other is WAY off. Half the bead is twice the thickness 0f the other half.
And even though I don't have a tamiya tire here I can tell these are not as pliable as a true clod-txt tire. These feel more ''plasticy'' than others.
Plasticy is a very good way to describe it, not quite toy grade but it has some of that cheapy feel. I kept saying it was harder but I knew that wasn't the way I wanted to say it.
The beads on these tires are pretty much even although on that one side that's messed up it did have a slight extra "lip" to it. I figured it was just excess flashing from the molding process and shaved it off when I was shaving the tires. It's amazing the differences from truck to truck, not just from the assembly process but also in the actual parts quality.
I can't wait to see what it can hold up to. I, myself, have been thinking about getting one but if this can be a somewhat replacement for a txt, I'd grab one. That is if I don't win it. Haha
Kent I'm wondering now if the tires are made by the ''slosh'' mold type process.
A outer mold is created, the liquid rubber or plastic is poured in sloshes around then the excess liquid is poured out. That is how we used to do resin copies of slot car parts and bodies.
Very Interesting Bill.........I am learning a lot today; never heard or seen that done before.
Great write up so far Kent! I cannot believe they let that side plate out the door either!!
I am starting to wonder what the truck is aimed for....An entry level/intermediate hobbyist looking for a step above "toy" grade as far as an RC is determined.
I was thinking the same thing.....seems better than a GP but still under the Clod and TXT.
S/N.... we should think about doing something like this with sum other RCs we like and have questions about...put up sum money and have a trusted person like Kent do the review..I think its bringing us together in a good way...
I looked it up on Youtube and can see why that might be a possibility. It would kinda explain how part of the tire is normal while the other half is off. But would the inside of the tire be that evenly smooth with the slosh type method?
I honestly don't think they gave it much thought. I think they figured since it was a copy of the TXT it would replace it. Of course that's not the case but that's because we know enough about the real TXT to come to that conclusion.
Rocky asked if there was any other problem items and I told him most of the problems are happening during assembly(except for the tires and maybe the axles) so it's really just a matter of the factory being more attentive to it's quality controls standards. But I don't know if those concerns will be heard, I hope they are. At least Rocky is listening, he's going through the trucks he has to see if they all have bearings, I still haven't heard back from him about the tires.
We don't need to limit ourselves to just reviews we could do something like we did on Scale4x4 a few years ago. It was called the "Broke MoFo Club." Basically someone was selected to build a truck and everyone who wanted to participate would either send in parts or money. At the end of the build it was raffle off to one of the participating members. It was a lot of fun and a very creative way to use extra parts.
We could also do a hybrid review/build where we get a kit(possibly fully or partial donated) and see if any vendors would like to donate parts and members can also donate parts to participate or contribute money and we raffle off the project.
Lots of ideas but difficult to coordinate.
OK, I didn't skip yesterday because I didn't do anything it was because I was fabbing up parts and it took longer than I expected.
Finished the mods to the front stub shafts. Ground them down a little and opened up the cups for more steering angle:
Modded one on the left, stock right.
Mounted up and showing off the max steering arc.
I was gong to make my own link/canti mounts for the axles but since I was falling behind I decided to just cut the stock ones. Really they're butt ugly stock so no one should run them if they don't have too. When they are mounted they will be flipped from the stock setup so the taller block will be on the bottom and the shorter one on top. The reason for this is because the lower links will now use the center hole so the bigger block will give it the space it needs to clear the housing.
I'm locking out the rear axle two ways. First is with a conventional lockout linkage consisting of an arm screwed to the top canti mount on the axle and a drag link. The Second thing I'm doing is using a thick nylon washer between the knuckle and housing. It came from my local hardware store white but I dyed it black. I also shaved it a little so it snug but not overly tight. This is so the knigpins aren't under too much stress and the lockout linkage and carry some of those stresses.
Here's the rear axle all buttoned up and ready to go.
I fabbed up the BTA servo mount but I still have to make a spacer for it.
Also got one of the bolt on dropped cradle plates done, still finishing up on the other side.
Next will be getting the front axle all together then finish mount up the lower cradle.
To be continued.....
sweeeeet... looks awesome Kent!
Awsome work HawnMT
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