Twin Detonator 101 _ _ _ _ (applicable to Dual Hunter)

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by B.M.T., Mar 12, 2008.

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  1. Mar 12, 2008 #1

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    Since these trucks are still popular, and I see a lot of them going to first time builders, I thought I'd post a build supplement, and share some observations that owning these for 8 years has given.

    I will follow up with a basic improvement article, too. But, for now here is a basic walk through for your first Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator/Double Blaze/Dual Hunter, and also applicable to the Blackfoot X, Overlander and Mighty Bull.

    I believe, for as many reasons as you can think of, any RC anything land borne needs ball bearings, and with the way now you can find bearings for a buck each, there is no excuse.

    So, step one, is to disassemble the factory assembled (for your convenience :willy) gearboxes, and install ball bearings. You will need eight 11 x 5 bearings for each gearbox. There are instructions in the back of the manual, showing how to tear down the gear boxes, if you are unsure.

    For anyone who has never seen inside one of these, they are huge. Reportedly, the housing will crack before a gear lets go, in a well maintained WD series truck.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] Man those gears are big. A set of ball bearings, good grease, like Tamiya Ceramic, and keep an eye on the wear for the aluminuim pinions, and they last.

    Now, replace all the plastic and sintered bronze bushings you can find... Two in each cluster gear, and one in each side of the casing, either side of the diff.

    Speaking diffs, for speedy big wheelers, you don't want to lock your diffs, but slowing the motion is a little beneficial. These diffs are not sealed, like 1/8th gas cars, so diff oil will leak out. What does work, is a product made here, in Australia, by Bostik, called Blu-Tac. It's a grey putty, and is used for sticking up posters, and the like. When it comes in contact with oil or grease, it turns iinto the gluggiest substance known to man. Perfect for slowing your diff action!. There has to be an equivalent in your country, and it should be similar in behavior.

    First up, remove the 3 screws, that cap the diff hemisphere, remove the cap, the thin thrust washer, and the closest side gear.

    [​IMG]

    Take your sticky substance, and make a thin sausage, and place it around the sun gears. Not too much, but a little more than pictured. If you make one diff stiffer than the other, make that the rear gear box.

    [​IMG]

    Now, put it all back together, and re-assemble the diff, and the bearinged gearbox. Now, do the other!.
     
  2. Mar 12, 2008 #2

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    Now, follow the manual, until you have a front and rear end. Not much can go wrong here. Note, the suspension arm halves have 2 strakes on the side surfaces. These denote what way they line up!. Also, replace the bushings intended for the wheel hubs with bearings. 2 per corner, and 11 x 5mm again.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Next, the completely inadequate kit friction shocks. Probably the only let down of the series. Easiest thing to fix, but we will get to that later. These will hold your trucks bum off the ground, and will do for now. Make sure you use plenty of grease (the kit supplied ear-wax is fine, and since you used good grease in the gear boxes, you still have this unopened, aye? :wnk).

    [​IMG]

    Now, to the simple chassis.

    [​IMG]

    The instructions show to install the steering servo with it's tie rods during this process. It is possible to easily slip that in after the chassis is assembled. Your call. I chose not to, for clarity. Just make sure the servo is centered, before you attach the servo saver.

    [​IMG]

    Radio installation is governed by what your using. If you have an older model, and use the mechanical speed control, follow the book. If you build with an ESC, you can be a little more liberal. My receiver is quite small, so I placed it in the area above the battery, and inside a balloon. Puddles and creeks are fun (but not endorsed by myself, manufacturers and RCMT!).
    Always place your ESC high, for best air flow. I used the M'tronics Super E truck, not for it's 6-12 cell ability, but for the fact it's water tight and has a relatively crazy current limit on 6 cells.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Okie, you should, by the time you get to the end of the mechanical portion of assembly, have something looking like this:

    [​IMG]

    Now, the body. Some people like to paint to box art, some do their own thing.
    I wanted to see what this mythical ute would look like, before the race prepping, so I went with the metallic blue, but street trucked it a bit.

    *Typically, Photobucket decided to do site maintenance right now, so I'll come back and upload the photo's properly, and some finished ones.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2008
  3. Jul 31, 2008 #3

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    Time to start tweak'n!

    Ok, here are the main fixes for the WD series.

    Firstly, the shocks. You can fit any 3" shock to the existing locations and achieve results, but I'm using cf shocktowers made for me by a friend, a few years back. On to these, I fitted long Tamiya CVA's. Similar towers are available from GPM, in blue alloy.

    [​IMG]

    Not necessary, but I chose GPM CVD shafts for the front. Saves ejecting a dogbone at full steering lock.

    [​IMG]

    For stability at speed, TL-01 toe in rear blocks from Tamiya.

    [​IMG]

    For reliability more than anything (sick of the 3x18mm step screws working out of the top arms), but also for the adjustability, turnbuckle top arms and steering rods, from Milty's RC, and eBay store. I have not seen these anywhere else. They are about $15 for the set of six rods, ends and hardware.

    [​IMG]

    For an extra sure ride and grip, I used Proline M2 Moabs, will full foams. These make for a great MT speed tire, believe it or not.

    [​IMG]

    Now, I made mention of over equipping the ESC... This is why, and the heart of the project. Two LRP Big Block Specials. 12x2, ballraced and adjustable 550's, intended to be used in 1/8th electric racing (Super RS4, etc.). One of these make a Stampede perfect...

    This will have 2 :burn

    [​IMG]

    Now, the installation begins!.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2008
  4. Jul 31, 2008 #4

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    Here is an interim amendment to the last post. After I took the photos, and started changing parts over, I noticed something... Another reason to go for the TL-01 Toe in uprights....

    [​IMG]

    And, take a look at this.... It's the last time this little Twin Det will ever look so under endowed :tong

    [​IMG]

    Because, now it looks like this:

    [​IMG]


    It's not startling, :bling 'ed out of this world, but it's not meant to be. This is a guide to the basic area's of improvement that are lacking in the production kit.

    From another angle, you could assume it was a factory model...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Even "sleepy", with the body on.

    [​IMG]

    But, the big deal in all of this, is how it drives, and the comparison.

    And, here it is, the video:

    http://www.vimeo.com/1452430
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2008
  5. Jul 31, 2008 #5

    Hardcore

    Hardcore

    Hardcore

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    Location:
    Scotland, UK
    Don't those new Knuckles from the TT-01 change the camber angle rather than toe in/out angel?

    Glad to see someones still interested in modding thier det :)

    Mines is still being built just now

    I'm going to be running 2 x 650 sized motors on 16.8volts, deans connections. mostly alloy parts ect (i know alloy is heavier and is prone to bending, but i was fed up of screws threading my plastic parts.
    Alloy + threadlock = sorted
     
  6. Aug 1, 2008 #6

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    They are TL-01, and they add toe in, about 2*. If there is a change in camber, I haven't noticed, because I've put adjustable top links on everything I have used them on previously.

    Aluminum parts are there, for sure, but this is intended to be a budget fix DYI, not a full blown project.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2008
  7. Apr 27, 2011 #7

    PowerPee

    PowerPee

    PowerPee

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    Hi question...
    I recently bought a Dual Hunter (kit) and assembled it 2 weeks ago. I finally got a radio for it (simple Futaba 2 channel) and am starting to finish it so i can do a test run.

    1.) what's a good pair of motors that will make this car run really fast?
    2.) a colleague told me that his friend uses 2 different motors for the body. Is this possible? If so, any Pros and Cons?

    Thanks in advance for the help :)
     
  8. May 9, 2011 #8

    bsrboy

    bsrboy

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    1. The motors you can run depends on your ESC mostly. I run two Emaxx motors and twin batteries with the EVX-2 esc. If you have an ESC that can handle them, a couple 19T modified motors would do the trick. Just set the timing to zero.

    2. Running 2 different motors is a bad idea. Unless they're identical motors with different decals...
     
  9. Jun 26, 2011 #9

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

    B.M.T.

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    No, never miss match your motors.

    Except... The front and rear motors spin in opposite directions in these trucks (like Clodbusters and USA1's). If the motors you want to use have adjustable timing, make sure you mirror the timing to the - direction on the front motor.

    If you used fixed endbell motors, the timing must be neutral or you have to use a reverse rotation motor in the front. You can get a reverse Titan 550.

    However, Tamiya lists the Sportstuned black motor as an option for the Dual Hunter. This incorrect. They have fixed timing advance and will cause your rear motor to overheat.
     

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