Tuber Faq

Discussion in 'Tube RC Monster Trucks' started by ScaleManiac, May 17, 2006.

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  1. May 17, 2006 #1

    ScaleManiac

    ScaleManiac

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    Quote from ROKTOY
    Here's the couple of benders you can use. Available at most autoparts places I think.

    [​IMG]

    You can braze steel rod, tube, stainless, brass (solid) etc. You need to make sure the torch your getting is hot enough to melt the brazing rod you want to use. I use this material:


    [​IMG]

    You'll want a matching flux for the rod as well. I use:

    [​IMG]

    You can braze steel, stainless or brass to each other....no problem. I seem to be having a little better luck brazing the SS than the galvanized brake line. I usually try to sand the brakeline ends before I join them to get a better joint flow.

    Can't join aluminum to these other metals as far as I know.....at least with home shop stuff. Aluminum should be joined with aluminum. TIG welding probably the most common method.


    Quoted from Juggfucious
    One of the most important things when building an MT tube frame is to draw it out first. if you look at the way most real MT frames are made you can see for the most part they are 2 identical sides. All the frames i've built have been drawn out on paper before i started to cut or build. this way you get to see where the batteries, Electronics and links will mount up..

    As for brazing, dont try and skinny out of the initial cost. Get a good torch. MAPP gas is ideal, and it needs to say it can braze, butane torches and others dont measure up. I use BernzOmatic prefluxed bronze rods.

    To braze a joing to need to fish mouth the joint (so that the piece are a snug fit). Clamp them together, and apply heat to the joint area using the torch. If you have water based flux, apply it before you apply the heat. Let the joing area become a nice cherry red, then tap the end of the pre fluxed rod to it. some of the flux will melt off and begin to flow in to the joint. Keep the heat on until you are getting an orangy yellow glow from the steel, then tap the bronze rod on again,keeping the heat applied. the tip of the rod should melt and flow in to the joint. Remove the Rod, remove the heat and allow to cool. You can dunk in water to speed the process, but the joint will be slightly weaker.
     
  2. Jun 19, 2006 #2

    Loaded_Heavy

    Loaded_Heavy

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    how much does one of those tube benders cost? just curious. thanks in advance for the reply.






    Dustin
     
  3. Dec 21, 2006 #3

    offroadford4x4

    offroadford4x4

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    The top one is what I most commonly see and they usually range from 12-20 bucks.


    What I'd like to know is where to get the rod and flux. I have yet to find it anywhere around here. Any online places?
     
  4. Dec 21, 2006 #4

    Electrohacker

    Electrohacker

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    home depo has the brazing supplies and the material can be found in many places. brake line obviously in an automotive shop, and rod and brass usually in hobby shops or craft stores.
     
  5. Dec 21, 2006 #5

    offroadford4x4

    offroadford4x4

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    I never even thought of lookin at home depot for that. I'll have to check next time there. I have a bunch of aluminum and steel tube already. I want to build a tuber but the brazing suplies is what has held me back.
     
  6. Dec 8, 2007 #6
    How can I keep my tubes from collapsing? I use the top tube bender
     
  7. Dec 8, 2007 #7

    william g

    william g

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    try filling with nice fine (and very dry) beach sand. :tmb
     
  8. Jul 9, 2008 #8

    pronova

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    torch?

    is this just a small torch like fo soldering copper pipe around home ? just with mapp gas instead of propane?
     
  9. Jul 9, 2008 #9

    spinout180

    spinout180

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    I use a Mapp Gas torch I got at Home Depot, just the standard size, although a smaller tipped setup would work more effectively. I tend to heat up more area than I really need. I bought a silver brazing kit with flux at a local welding suppy company, it was around $45-$50. J.W. Harris Safety-Silv 45 is the name brand, it was the highest grade they had in stock. Hope that was helpful.

    Troy.
     
  10. Oct 9, 2009 #10

    Dennis

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    When you all did your first one, where did you get your dimensions from? Did you get the body and reverse engineer it? I know I will need to draw it up. But I have not been able to find any dimensions of the frames.
    Thanks
     
  11. Dec 18, 2009 #11

    moparkid88

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    im going to use 1010 3/16" steel tubing from msc and a mig welder. im going to replicate after a truck so id say start with the body and work around that.
     
  12. Dec 21, 2009 #12

    kreaton

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    Have you gotten any progress done with your welding chassis?

    I was wondering, I broke down and bought a hobby welder from Harbor Freight which I've used before on some thin sheet metal at a friend's body shop and it did ok. I've welded for years, years ago. But...

    what material is the best if building a 1st timer 'tuber' chassis? Solid? Would brake line work still?
     
  13. Dec 21, 2009 #13

    moparkid88

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    ya that 1010 is just a certain kind of material. id go with 3/16" brake line if you can get it. and there should be no problem welding it. i havent gotten around to it. been working every second i breath basically..
     
  14. Dec 21, 2009 #14

    kreaton

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    I know the feeling. I finally get some days off. OHH it's christmas... lol. Well I have to get my "man room" started before I can weld in there anyways. I got a nice shed behind the house I'm running elec. out to it and building a ceiling and shelving etc.

    Probly in a week or so I'll start on my build. I'll post here progress if anyone wants to see it. I'm going to get both solid rod and brake line and start welding some mock up joints and see how it goes.
     
  15. Dec 21, 2009 #15

    moparkid88

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    you have flux core or gas? i have a flux core but im going to get tanks and make it gas. to me it welds much cleaner.
     
  16. Dec 21, 2009 #16

    kreaton

    kreaton

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    It does weld cleaner, but I don't mind putting extra time into cleaning it up for the cost it's saving me. It's also saving me time, I can't afford the good welder yet, soooo all that time saving for it, would only post pone my building ya know. If I do well, I'll probly get a bunch of stock and that torch kit and start practicing brazing. Looks fun but i hear you go through oxygen too quick.
     
  17. Dec 21, 2009 #17

    moparkid88

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    i would get a pencil torch for brazing or somthing small. and i weld more then i thought so im in need of getting gas. all i have is that 400 dollar craftsmen mig welder. it works pretty good and doesnt arc out when the wire touches the part. i was told alot of the smaller welders do that.
     
  18. Jan 7, 2010 #18

    DeathWish

    DeathWish

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    I'm looking at buying some 7/32" brass tubing. Would either hollow or solid work? Just looking to make sure I to get the right stuff so I don't have to worry about rebuilding it over and over. It's for a 1/18th scale tube MT.
     
  19. Jan 7, 2010 #19

    moparkid88

    moparkid88

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    solid may be a little too heavy..
     
  20. Jan 8, 2010 #20

    DeathWish

    DeathWish

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    Alright, thanks MoparKid88. That helps me out a lot more on picking out what I need. I hope to have the stuff soon once some of this snow melts.
     

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