Tlt Faq

[Orange Pedeanaut]

Originally posted by Plays With Toys



Max Climber

TLT-1 Rockbuster

Well, don't have mine quite yet, but I know a couple people had problems with the main gear/diff loosening up over time, so anyone have a fix for this?


Anyone have build tips, or problems they encountered and the solutions, or just the problems, and someone else can shime in with a solution?



Differential and Transmition tips.


When you build the Ball Diff in the beginning it says to lubricate the metal washers between the pulley and the drive housings. And you also have to lubricate the Ball Bearings used inside it. The diff screw doesn't need to be replaced out of the box, just make sure that you are not a juggernaut when tightening it.



Question, If I want to convert to the Traxxas Slipper Peg Lock for the center diff, do I need to clean all of the lubrication off the parts first, or will the diff grease not keep the diff from locking with the slipper pegs?



you will want the friction in the center diff. so you want to clean it up as much as possible, before you change to slipper pegs. remember it has to be tight!



Traxxas makes a ball diff that is the exact same of the tamiya one, 32 tooth and same diameter.
Center Diff is easily fixed with Traxxas Slipper pegs!!!!!!! Oh yeah, this is nice, makes the truck a dream!!!!!
TRAXXAS slipper pegs (12 pieces) p/n LXJK92 $4.29 from Tower Hobbies.




Do you know of any NON-MESSY materials that can be used to lock the rear diff? I don't wanna mess with greases and such.



locking the diff use shoo goo as it's easily removed, also many like jb weld. Any silicone based "goop" type product works great, and many are removable without causing damage.



I read on TXT-1.net that you could use Blu Tac (soft sticky stuff used to hold posters on walls, instead of nails or tacs) to lock your diffs. To me, it seemed like it would be just like silly puddy. However, I decided to give it a try. To my surprise it locked it up tight. It doesn't seem to give much, if it does it will be very little. At its least, it will be like an extremely stiff limited slip. But I have yet to be able to get the wheels to turn in opposite directions like most limited or open diffs. Try it out and see for yourself.




Bearings Needed...


You need 20 5x11 bearings and 8 5x8 bearings.
There are 20 slots for 5x11 bearings. 6 in the axle tubes and 2 for every steering knuckle. It comes with 8 bronze bushings, and 12 plastic ones. Thats why some choose to only get the 12 bearings.




Anyone had binding issues in the axle?



I built an axle, and it was very smooth, the second I put the knuckles on they didn't line up quite right, and it was EXTREMELY difficult to turn the input shaft, my hand was having problems, I know the motor will. Also, it didn't steer very smoothly, it was binding as well. I used the second set of knuckles and they worked like a charm, but I am worried about this next axle I build...





Pedeman1 states....


---Tam TLT1--------wheelbase: 180mm. The outside width of the stock wheel/tire is 250mm and the overall length is 280mm. Oh, wheels are 3.5" diameter




Aftermarket chassis



LINKS and any other info NEEDED!!!!

 

[Orange Pedeanaut]

[dohtml]

<center>Originally posted by JUSTADORK</p></center>



My diff gear came loose, so maybe some JB Weld is in order? Don't know yet. Gonna try again when I get a new diff gear. I thought it was from submerging it into mud. Build tips, get a comfortable + screwdriver, threadlock all metal to metal and install the bearings from the get go. Also, try some Traxxas teflon shims to reduce some slop. Use a caliper to measure out your four links suspension rods and everything so it has consistent handling. Get a large pizza and a 40oz slurpie and go for it. Its great if you have a good work bench and lots of parts cups. It's just like a TXT-1 so take your time because its smaller, so if something is off by a mm. it feels like an inch. The Tamiya Delta pack is a joke! Use 2100mah AA those sell for $8 for 4. or whatever, just don't pay $35 for the Tamiya pack, not worth it.</p>



<center>Originally posted by RCBILDR</p></center>



I got mine set up for crawling with OFNA diff locking lube in the axles and a locked center diff. The JB weld has held so far, but I can hear the belt skipping every once in a while when I'm driving it hard on carpet. You can also use a TAO4 gear diff and JB weld that too....according to Tamiya (called them about locking the center diff) the gear diff is a little longer than the ball diff and the linkages will have to be lengthened about 1mm. HPI MT wheels fit on it nicely, but the flanged lock nut for the axles does not thread on all the way, but I haven't had a problem with any coming off...I haven't bought any non-flnaged lock nuts yet. It looks like any 48p spur gears will work too. I got rid of the stock Tamiya gears and used an HPI 48p 96T spur and a RR 24T pinion....It now wheelies over on its lid if I'm not careful. So far all I've crawled over is an HPI Nitro MT chassis at work....haven't had time to try it outside yet. Hope this helps.</p>



<center>Originally posted by Plays With Toys</p></center>



Here's a problem I ran into and the solution:

I used silly putty to lock the diff, I put the female end of the axle into the diff then inserted the male end. It wouldn't go in all the way, no matter how hard I tried. What had happened was some silly putt was over the hole that goes through the tri-pegs that hold the three small diff gears. The male end pushed the silly putty down into the female end, making it not fit.

To get it out (after trying several other things) I found using a small drill bit (as close to the size of the hole as possible, and twisting it clockwise inside the hole by hand, the silly putty worked its weight up the drill bit, once it gets tough to turn the bit, simply pull it out. Most of the silly putty should be hanging on to the end of the bit. If not, repeat the process.</p>



<center>Originally posted by CHUCKIE015</p></center>



When I built my axles, I found that some shimming was in order so I bought some CRC 5mm ID shims and built my axles. I found that four shims would be about right, being a touch notchy at first but they smooth out with use. Without shimming, the Novak brushless will actually cause the rear diff to click on hard acceleration.</p>


Both my brother and I have had glitching from our TLTs. The only solution that I have found to work is to mount the antenna mount on the outside of the chassis, away from the motor. This pretty much solved all the glitching woes that we had.</p>



<center>Originally posted by RONBECK</p></center>



to lock the center diff all you need is the friction pegs(slipper).
traxxas#4685
deppending on the servos you run you may want to get some kimbro savers.
bearings. the most complete teflon sealed bearings i have found are duratrax 4tec kits(2) will save oyu $10ish bucks and give you a few extra 5x11s.
a y-harness with a built in reverse to run rear steering the same as the front for more suspension travel.
motor would say go with a stockis motor to start with, and if you "DON"T have a metric 48 pitch gear avalible order a few standard 48 pitch gear(metric are larger).
that's all i can think of now.</p>



<center>Originally posted by ORANGE PEDEANAUT</p></center>



If I wanted to buy a TLT and get everything to make it run good off the start, what all do I need?</p>



TLT
Radio
Esc
Motor
Battery
Charger
Servo</p>



You can run the truck like this, box stock... Or a few helpful mods are:

Traxxas Slipper pegs in the diff?
Ball bearings

For ball bearings you can either buy the bearings by size, or buy the Duratrax Hummer bearing set which has all the bearings you need except for 4 5x11's... The Hummer bb set is 20$ plus $6 more for the other bearings. If you buy the bearings by size it costs around 15$ more. RC4wd also sells a TLT bearing kit, higher quality bearings than the Duratrax brand. </p>



The gears are metric 48 pitch. This makes the truck pretty noisy so if you are looking for a quieter truck and more gearing options, go for some 48 pitch gears. I am running 16/93 with a 9 turn motor and it seems to be about right. 18/90 will not fit so you should use that as an example of what to use. 93 tooth spur gear is almost exactly the same diameter as the stock 83 tooth spur.

Stock gearing= 24/83 metric 48 pitch </p>[/dohtml]

 

[williamg]

Widen your axles
Tamiya Wheel Axle Bag 58110
Manufacturer Stock# 9805391
Tower Stock# LXGG15 Tower's Price 7.99
These are the replacement rear wheel axles for the Super Blackfoot.
The hole is in the axle for the wheel shaft pin, (available in TAMC5094).

SPECS: The axle is 1 11/16" long. INCLUDES: 2- rear wheel axles

 

[Spoon37]

umm can the titles in red text be made some other colour? its not really enough of a contrast and its kinda hard to read them....

for example that blue/turquoise colour Will used would show up much better IMO...

:truck

 

[Orange Pedeanaut]

Not a problem

 

[william g]

How can I make the diff "limited" and not totally locked?
axles getting semi locked up with DAP 33 window glazing compound that seems pretty good. then Locktite in the 3 cover screws for security. It is enough so a tire can be jammed and the other turn, but otherwise acts likes it's locked.
I packed the diff well, never used a drop of oil.

 

[william g]

typical rear steer lockout

use a longer screw in the case,
try to space it out with an extra link ball if you have long enough hardware available.
I did on my next build, the Diaz DT-1


note: the less angle on the lockout rod the stronger it will be