TLT-1 rock buster none crawler!

[T_Tank]

Progress report on the truck today.

Got a chance to take it down to hobby town phoenix (SRS) an they let me run the truck around their indoor clay track and it survived! I had to swap out the rear cantilevers for the stock units due to binding that i'm still scratching my head over. overall here is what happen at the track

Stock tlt-1 servo saver gave up now replaced with a large traxxas servo saver.
rear upper 4 link mount screws vibrated loose an vanished so replaced to keep going!
lower links mounts to the axle vibrated loose now an then i'd notice by the truck starting to veer one way or another.
battery tray feel loose into the chassis, i noticed this by truck making a clicking sound an having no umph!

Overall It was a blast beat on the truck for nearly 4 hours with no major issues to be had just little issues here an there I now need some locktite!

Its rather bouncy after landings I can only imagine changing to softer shocks an different shock fluid. I should change the fluid out of these ten scte shocks I have no idea whats in them but its slow flowin stuff!

 

[northerngames]

could be the piston holes.

could be the springs.

could be the fluid.

pull the spring off completly and press the shaft all the way in and see how it press's itself back to get an idea of what needs to be done.

 

[JKRacing37]

Its rather bouncy after landings I can only imagine changing to softer shocks an different shock fluid. I should change the fluid out of these ten scte shocks I have no idea whats in them but its slow flowin stuff!

Remember A-Arm suspension holds a huge mechanical advantage over a solid axle truck. Your cantilevers help regain some of that but overall with the SCTE you're looking at a 8+ pound A-Arm equipped truck. So lighter springs and fluid are a must!

 

[T_Tank]

Yeah I figure as much it needs to be lighter I believe the shocks came stock with 30wt according to the ten scte manual with a 4 hole piston so I dropped to oil down to 22.5wt.

The front feels fine cause any front bias landings the suspension up front was more planted while the rear is bouncing about I dont' think its even getting near bottoming out on the back. I need to find tire foams for the front wild willy tires to the rears are using the stock factory foams from my b4.1.

About what weight would you guys be running on a lighter weight mt? I want to say my truck loaded is maybe 5-6 lbs.

Also is it common to run a center diff in rc mt I have a stampede diff an trans in the center using the penguin rc option so everything is wide open an only time the diff was a little issue was on hard powering out of a corner as it let the truck understeer a bit more then I would like but other times like going over rollers it felt like it was a good thing I had a center diff. Maybe I should try finding a sealed upgrade so I can put 1k wt oil for center.

And on another set of notes the guys at the track where all very friendly with me during the open practice times seeing something with solid axle suspension going around the track doing its best to keep up with the buggies and short course trucks while acting like a typical monster truck being a minor handfull.

 

[theblazer24]

Remember A-Arm suspension holds a huge mechanical advantage over a solid axle truck. Your cantilevers help regain some of that but overall with the SCTE you're looking at a 8+ pound A-Arm equipped truck. So lighter springs and fluid are a must!

x2!

could be the piston holes.

could be the springs.

could be the fluid.

pull the spring off completly and press the shaft all the way in and see how it press's itself back to get an idea of what needs to be done.

x2!

 

[JKRacing37]

I think you'll probably get better results from a spring change first.

 

[T_Tank]

Ordered two sets of soft springs for the losi ten-scte since they don't just sell the fronts on their own. And got a fresh set of axial bead locks coming in so I'll be closer to getting my masher's mounted to the truck!

Also ordered off shapeways a replacment set of cantilevers and a middle plate replacement for my penguin rc chassis so i can mount a 9 gram pan servo to the truck for inevitable at least panning camera for the truck.

 

[T_Tank]

Uh-oh x2

So 1st my novak gtb 2 xdrive stopped working correctly it stops the motor dead in one position an tested with a second motor an 3 different sensor cables so :/ Replaced it with a castle mamba max pro hopefully this will last 2-3 years like my novak.

Then while putting the 4600 kv 9.5t trackstar motor in the truck I noticed a odd wobbling on the front left wheel. pulled the tire off an found that the ears are busted on the truck. I can though understand how I didn't loose that side completely while jumping it on doubles an such.. because the tlt-1 uses super thick axle shafts and with the MIP cvd put together the knuckles couldn't back away enough to fall out of the truck. Probably helps i have the clips attached to!

So in short tamiya is like a old toyota hilux you can do just about everything to them including drop a building on them an they will keep working even when they shouldn't!

Does anybody know where I could fine those aluminum chubs maybe the clocked ones for some more caster on the front?

 

[rocpede4x4]

I think RCP Crawlers still sells the clocked axle C. If not I got a set off eBay, machined axle C. They are machined nice andI think are stronger then the others.

 

[T_Tank]

I'll keep that in mind though I wish rcp didn't charge so much for shipping oh well.

Got some of the 3D printed parts in today not the wheel wideners though just a replacement set of cantilevers and a center electronic tray with a place to mount a 9 gram servo

forgot to mention that the new plate has 6 3mm screw holes going horizontal and another 6 going vertical so I can one day make a roll cage for the camera

Have axle cases coming monday an sometime tonight my 5mm bore 48p 33tooth pinion will show up so I can let the viper vstxl 4.5t 550 drop some more power into the truck. The 540 9.5t from turnigy really lacked umpf compared to my tekin 10.5 an got hot faster an this monsterous 550 I've never really been able to get a good gear combo with 32p traxxas gears.

That an the 32p gears would mean I have to remove a cross brace in the rear for the upper 4 link

on a note on springs even the soft springs for the tenscte seam to stiff for the trucks weight >.< but its a improvement over the medium ones!

 

[T_Tank]

Pinion finally came in!!!! so a short very poorly done cell phone video of the truck going around the motor never got hot the MMP esc fan kicked in about 10 minutes in with it being 97oF out side so I'd call it a success!

Its rather squirrly atm with the ears on the one side not holding after using jb but for flat driving around its ok till I get new cases in an epoxy the daylights out of the weak places till I can order some aluminum axle C's.

[video=youtube;dWRslxmP3gI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWRslxmP3gI&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[T_Tank]

Can you guess whats different in this picture

Can you guess whats a bit different in this picture it does help the truck a bit with rollovers :emot151:

Now if you can't really tell I've got a 1/16 traxxas trans now in my truck only draw back right now.... need a metal spur keep stripping the stock plastic ones trying to use a 50t spur 33t pinion with the trans flipped for the 3.7:1 ratio thinking I may need to drop it.

Sadly had to drop back to the 540 as the 550 can will hit the axle housing apon suspension compression

Speed I'd say is probably around 20-22mph with the trans right now and suffering cutting out.. though I think that deals with my glitch buster being weaker then the one that just broke x.x

The mount is 3D printed though I had to modify it a bit as I forgot the case bolts on the bottom of the trans but believe it will hold together and to top it off the mounting holes work with both the penguin rc chassis an the stock one so should work with others with the same distance on the lower link holes.

Speaking of 3D printing gonna need to make a link mount that will accommodate a 3 link on the rear with the link mount just being barely from touching the input shaft of the axle which will allow full suspension travel on the rear again without hitting the motor!

I really miss the 550 though but I think i'm about at the limit on stretching the wheel base for a tlt-1 I don't believe there wideners out there that work with the mip axle cvds as there is a screw/bolt that goes into them to hold the wheel in place.

 

[HawnMT]

Very cool to see someone using the 1/16 trans. They are so strong for such a tiny unit, that I'm surprised that more builders haven't used them. I'm curious, what are you using for driveshafts to mate up the 4mm 1/16 trans to the 5mm tlt axles?

 

[T_Tank]

I'm actually still using the axial wild bore center shafts I just dug through a box of parts used to make a quad I still need to finish an found a 4mm id 5mm od plastic tube used to adapt props for smaller motor shafts.

I got the idea from a guy on tamiya club that did it a while back an actually contacted him to make sure I had the trans mount measurements correct.
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=63207

And if these little trans can handle pushing 2.2 buggy tires to 60-70mph it can surely handle larger ones at a slower speed!

Oh I did finally get a new prototype of the wheel wideners I'd say they are a success!

There meant to be about as light as possible not really "scale" looking but they should also let you still use the VWS system!

costs about 59 to make 4 of them though Q_Q

 

[rocpede4x4]

Rims are looking good. By chance do you have any pics of the tranny and 1/16 tranny mounted to the chassis.

Sent From My 2500 HD Tapatalk 2

 

[T_Tank]

Yup just got home so here are some photos of the 1st run prototype though still mounted in the chassis

an here is the basic model in tinker cad I have to fix the model it doesn't take into account the two lower bolts on the transmission case >.<

extra mounting holes on the side are for a still work in progress frame I occasionally get to to add more to just hard to stay motivated when you don't have much mad money.

 

[T_Tank]

update on a new upper 4 link/truss for the rear axle

It works like a charm bolts right up (mind you this is the second prototype) there is a little slop in my wide traxxas ball with axial bent rod ends but there is no binding what so ever and it held together perfectly unlike the rest of my truck... Well now with THAT part of the truck figured out gotta figure out something to do about loosing those dammed mip tlt-1 wheel bolts an spacers >.<











Mind you that the motor now only gets about 1mm pushed against it when the truck is at full compression an the upper an lower 4 links are not just about perfectly level with the penguin rc chassis I will likely order a second one sometime for the front end as well to shave a little weight off the axles!

 

[im2tall]

Man looking good!!! I have to get back on my micro also !! Have all the parts,just been putting it off,need motivation!!LOL!! Been bashing the heck outta the G.P on lunch break,and flying custom nano quads indoors with Spektrum QX FC's to keep busy in doors!! Winter Sucks!! I wish the baby monster was finished for some house bashing!!

 

[T_Tank]

Man looking good!!! I have to get back on my micro also !! Have all the parts,just been putting it off,need motivation!!LOL!! Been bashing the heck outta the G.P on lunch break,and flying custom nano quads indoors with Spektrum QX FC's to keep busy in doors!! Winter Sucks!! I wish the baby monster was finished for some house bashing!!

Should get that mini put together man I've got some parts laying around for a mrc based MT I just have to make a 3D printed chassis adapter so I can use a mrc frame as a subframe in a slick rock roll cage using some tlt-1 tires, then make a new trans mount so I could use another traxxas 1/16 trans but with a 380 sized motor maybe figure out a way to have 4ws like the wheely king!.

 

[T_Tank]

Well bit the bullet an had shapeways print off 4 of these should get them before my birthday at the end of the month.

An by these I decided to make a over the axle shock mount that will still let me use the shocks I have around (100+mm long shocks) An these should be fairly tough about 3.5mm thick on the part that rests against the chassis plate.

It will use the holes for the fallowing (cantilever and end chassis support holes) on the outside so I'll just need longer screws.

The shock mount has a 2mm offset aswell to compensate for the chassis thickness so I can use a 53mm alum cross brace between left an right so they should be fairly strong!

Where the shock attaches is probably overkill at about 7.75mm

Eyeballing everything the top of the shocks should be about where they be on a stock ford f100 like the midnight pumpkin so crossing fingers it looks great and will hold together.

the shapeways link is here if you want to look at the 3D model in their little viewer http://shpws.me/EXCq

Also made something I don't know if anyone cares about but I've lost now 2 of those aluminum spacers for the MIP shafts that go on the outer side of the rim so tossed together some that will serve the same purpose but with THREAD HOLES! so I can use fishing line to tie them to the rim so I stop loosing more of these >.< http://shpws.me/EUiA

Finally after the long read I also order another 4link mount to 1) match things front an rear 2) see if I need to reinforce the servo mount holes I shouldn't though.. they are 7mm thick there!

forgot to show a picture of how the link mount looks once mounted up so here ya guys go!