TLT-1 rock buster none crawler!

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd move over to a more relivant forum compared to the crawler forums since this little monster is about as subtle at rock crawling as duck hunting with a flack cannon.

Bought this lil dude earlier this month an wanted to make a fun impractical monster truck (but since when is a monster truck practical) Right now the little guy jumps comically great but the suspension i find is doing little to nothing on landings so hopefully some different shocks paired to softer springs with a stiff sway bar help it out with that.

Also don't have the center diff tightened to kingdom come so wheelies aren't achieved unless reverse is used.

Specs
Motor: Tekin redline 10.5turn w/ 13mm High torque rotor
ESC: Novak EDGE 2s
Receiver: Spektrum SR200
Battery: Venom 3800mah 60c 2cell shorty lipo
Servo: futaba s3305
Spure/Pintion: 78T spur 30T pinion
Body: Proline Descender 1/18 losi mrc body painted Tamiya PS-30 Brilliant Blue
Lock status: all differentials are unlocked
Shocks: stock (axial 107mm ax10 shocks coming in the mail)
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Upgrades
Penguin RC performance chassi w/ custom lexan cover plates to help keep it semi clean inside/semi water resit.
Full boca bearing kit
Wild Willy 2 wheels/tires
GPM center drives
Traxxas ruster front wheel hexes on all 4 corners
Traxxas long tie rod
Team Losi steering links an ends
RCP max clearance steering knuckles (front only).
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Articulation shot






Forgot to mention this little guy HAULS! will have to find a way to strap one of my phones onboard to get a gps speed readout sometime!
 

JKRacing37

Well-Known Member
I bet it does fly with a 10.5!!! Sweet looking rig, love those rims and tires in there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Motor temps are still way cool aswell though i've had to thread lock the living crud out of the universals at the axles they would fall out >.<.

I'm between getting the penguin rc magnum trans plates or atempting to install a axial exo terra center diff/motor mount which would drop the gear ratio like a hammer...

The axial solution would drop the motor down to about as low as you can do in any vehicle but then.... might suffer from mesh readjustment on landings...

I love these wheels but I managed to crack one of the outer beads on the rear >.<

An I gotta ask some of you more versed in solid axle RCs a question. Should I keep the servo down low with the penguin rc mounts or put it back up ontop of the axle with a stronger servo plate?

Also has anyone messed with different cantilever designs to get better suspension for jumping an such? I have no clue on the tlt an on my merv there was a mess load of different cantilevers to make the suspension behave from more normal rate to progressive.
 

Manfjourde

Contributor
IIRC When I had my penguin tlt the servo hit the chassis cross members when on the axle and articulation was limited. I'd leave it where it is. Also, you may want to throw some traxxas rustler/stampede front shocks on there for a smoother ride.
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Small update on the truck it now has the scx10 107mm dual sping shocks on it an wow what a difference just on a smooth surface going full tilt it can actually get some suspension work going!.

On a minor note while working on installing the shocks I found side to side play in my trucks front suspesion, which gave me a *** since its all stock triangulation so there should be almost zero instead of a half inch side to side so looking i found i snapped one of the inner upper 4 link ballstud/screws. So I dug through my tlt box an found my unused cross brace bolt an serated nut an installed it an used some traxxas balls/ends an got it all to fit just like the normal version!

pic of what i'm talking about


an some pics of a unused hard gpm losi mini T rear sway bar that i bent up some to attach to the rear upper links (no idea if its actually doing its job but the softer shocks while driving its not bombing hard to one side so guess i did something right!)






 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Just a update I cracked my servo... was driving around the dirt oval at srs an took a turn to hard an SMACK the steering got all messed up so now... SAVOX sc-1257tg servo on board!

Also had the live side of my esc cap break at the cap XXXX least the esc still functions so ordered a novak ESC cap at the LHS also have to grab a glitch buster the servo is drawing to much power atm.

I did drive it around the normal track aswell an it jumped alright its way to short of a wheelbase with the power i have for sure makes it hard to keep level in the air which it can get some MASSIVE air.

Wheels are bothering me some when it comes to top end speed due to some serious vibration it gets narly.

Anybody here know of a good replacment rim btw for wild willy 2 rims? think there 1.9" dia 2.25" wide Like something stronger or possibly beadlock without being to heavy (want less unsprung weight)

Also has anyone ran a saddle pack lipo set on the penguin chassi? I'm looking at the size of the packs an they look like they would fit like a glove an help with some weight balance.

anyways here is a photo with the servo installed
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Another update
TLT-1 now has the penguin rc magnum transmission system OMG this thing is now a ninja don't hear it as much as before with the old transmission.

Now i've noticed a issue with my front upper 4link on the chassi end they are bending either way resulting in a extremely inconsistent steering when driving over anything rough.

Anyone know if there are seals you can install in the traxxas magnum diff? looking to possibly put 30k wt oil in the center diff to make it slightly more full time awd.

Note on CG the motor is mounted slighlty higher with this gear box installed
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Well its been a long while but i've been fiddling with my tlt-1 more an more got my alum link plates from rc-recycler so i could flip my triangulation on the upper link NO MORE LINK BOLT BENDING!!!

Also got my super shorten axial wb8 drives installed an fitted the traxxas 32 pitch 54t spur an a 14t pinion all attached to a viper vstxl 4.5t 550 motor with a novak gtb2 xdrive controlling it.

The slipper is a vxl style one so i don't nuke the tlt diffs!
Also in the second photo is two axial AX08061 beadlocks bolted together (using axial exo hinge bolts) with proline masher 2000 streached over it roughly the same width now as a wild whilly 2000 tire.

removed the cantilevers an attached the stock scx10 shocks to the axles now don't feel i've lost much there.









Debating on getting a tamiya 51495 Suzuki Jimmy body an dubbing the lil MT godzuki >.>

More to come in the upcoming months as i piece my lil monster together
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Another update on my tlt-1 mt

-New body tamiya wild jimny sj30 body
-new traxxas gear box gears
-reinstalled my tekin redline gen1 10.5t 540 13mm HD rotor back into the truck for lower cg
-rc4wd tlt-1 mip cvds installed in rear axles
-shaved upper 4link axle mounts to increase suspension down travel
-shaved more material off the axial cvd drises at the gear box noticed they where causing drag with the smaller motor
-tunigy saddle packs purchased now need to make side chassie mounts for them

Left the headlights clear so i could put some axial light buckets an behind the indicator stickers its clear aswell just need to figure a way to mount some leds behind them aswell.

anyways nuff talk some pictures!






i like the body but now i feel like i might need bigger tires now... what you guys think?
 

kjr2

Old Timer
That body looks real nice I always liked those Sammys. Bigger tires are (almost) always better! What about those Masher 2ks on the wide axial wheels that would look SWEET!
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
I"d totaly say make one of your tlt's into a little freestyle jumping hopping truck just make sure you don't use the stock chassis unless you flip the upper triangulation links or you will bend the chassis. Learned this when jumping my tlt at a skate park when i first got it bent it up after the 10th jump going about 5ft in the air landing on all fours.

I haven't updated anything on my tlt-1 yet still getting funds together wish i could find some inch thick wheel wideners to make the axial bead locks wider... then gotta get some st racing alum lock rings.
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Minor update got my light buckets on the front end glued into place.
Using axial light kits the headlights snap into the cut up light grills to make it possible to maintain a little bit more easily.

Also with or without the axial lens guys?


inside shot


does anyone know of a light controller that's like the axial nvs but not... so expensive but still with as many functions?
 

Supreme Reign

Well-Known Member
does anyone know of a light controller that's like the axial nvs but not... so expensive but still with as many functions?
Save your money and get the DELight Controller for $29.99. The unit is SMALL. It has plugs for 8 LED's. 4 channels can be programmed easily for any combination/timing of fading and/or flashing sequences you can think of. 2 channels are the same, but are controlled by the third channel. The last two channels are always on. This is perfect for a police rig/emergency vehicle, where the main lights can run all the time and the police flashers and strobes can be operated by the 3rd radio channel. You can also run the system off a stand-alone battery, but you lose the radio control aspect.

Specifications:
Size: 1.1" x .85" x .2" plus connectors
Weight: 6.0g
Voltage range: 3.6v-7.4V (3-6 cell NiMh, 1 or 2s lipo)

Current Draw:

Controller: 10mA typical
Channels 1-4: Programmable, 250mA max per channel
Channels 5-6: 2A max per channel
Channels 7-8: Always on, 2A max per channel
Maximum recommended current draw for all channels: 4A

http://dimensionengineering.com/DELightController.html

http://dimensionengineering.com/DELink.html
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Update with the lighting sofar using a 25 buck light kit that my LHS had I need to splice in 2 more orange an 2 more red lights so i have all my needed DOT lights.
slightly hard to get pictures of the blinkers in mid blink!













I used a generic liquid mask that i brushed on about 3 coats around the light areas behind the stickers cause I figured it make a better appearance.
 

rocpede4x4

Well-Known Member
Looks nice with the lights. I have a Q? With the steering servo mounted in front of the axle. Is there a nuff clearance between the tires and the bumper at full lock l+r. I'd like to run bigger tires before I order this chassis kit.

Sent From My 2500 HD Tapatalk 2
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
With the high clearance knuckles and mip cvds my tires don't hit the servo area but bigger tires might rub on the lower links. I'm using the wider offset option that came with the cvds if I used the narrow option I'd have binding at the knuckles.
 

T_Tank

Well-Known Member
Long time comin but money an life been biting on me but thought I show what my tlt-1 is looking like now its been stretched to the wheel base needed for a parma midnight pumpkin.

-GPM aluminum body mount posts with boom racing body mount extensions up from
-new trimmed axial wb8 drive shafts
-3D printed tlt-1 centilevers with wider mounting points for shocks and links
-removed the front axle servo mount an went with a more traditional one (the alum 4 link mounts had a spot for mounting a servo)
-new Traxxas Turnbuckles Camber Link 39mm TRA3644 for front lower 4 link


some pics also off shapeways of the tlt-1 cantilevers I managed to make the bearing depth .25mm to deep together so will need some traxxas fiber washers to fix the offset and after I have a chance to jump this thing I"ll see if i need to beef up the 3mm screw mounts for the links an shocks


http://shpws.me/vrWJ

As for the sj30 body its being used as a spare for my mini crawler

Also a very slow progress report on my masher 2k's I got a rough prototype made for the axial 2.2 beadlocks that just widens the rims I need to find the right screw length and then cobble the money together to get another set of rims and new wideners.
The wideners are about 30mm wide for the bead section though I could make them wider or more narrow.
 
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