sway bar options for high power brushless

[kevinatfms]

well i have reconfigured my brushless wheely king due to the hot racing internal shocks not doing so well with the brushless system.
I have found that i cant get rid of the dreaded body roll.... i used hpi springs(purple front/yellow rear) with 60wt shock oil and i had cpe sway bars on it but it still wants to lift the left front tire like crazy on anything more than 1/4 throttle.

anyone else have a sway bar option that doesnt ziptie to the lower links that works? if i have to i was thinking of using the cpe sways but with shrink wrap on the tubes to stop them from moving around. i would like to figure a way to attach it to the chassis to make it more stable and less maint. required.

anyone?

 

[william g]

yellow are sOOOooft springs if they are HPI

from soft to hard
Yellow
black
blue
purple

 

[kevinatfms]

so should i rotate my springs from front to rear? or switch the rears to purple also?

it torque steers like crazy, if i pin the throttle the truck will not turn, the front end skips across the ground and the truck literally goes straight with the wheels turned either direction. its almost too powerful, and im only using a 7 cell nimh....:bang

im going to remove the yellow springs and install some reds and see if it corrects it. if not im going to have to get another set of purples:bang

but i still need a better sway bar idea.:wish

 

[william g]

put purple in the rear, stock red up front and use the yellow for a crawler :wnk

Also, shorten the front shocks 1/4'' more than your rear to give it a bit of rake, a jacked up look.

Me, I shorten the rear 12mm and the front 14-16mm but I like mine low.

 

[kevinatfms]

ok im going to make the change tonite when i get home and see how it does. if it still body rolls im going to just get another set of purples and run all 4 corners purple.
as far as sways are concerned, i have been tossing the idea of throwing shrink wrap tubing around the lower links and shrink wrapping the sways to the lower links?!?

 

[william g]

Look at my pounder builds, I move the shock to the outside of the axle bracket and put a short tube spacer in. This mod also helps make the truck more stable and reduces torque twist.

you can see it pretty good in this view here before stripping it down and sending you those parts and body.

 

[M0nster]

i just bent up some 2.0mm mountain bike spokes and zip tied them to the chassis, and lower links like the cpe ssway bars. i have yet to run it but just from feel it seems much stiffer. i want to build some cantilever style sway bars though. i think it would be much stiffer.

i run a velineon system for the time being and the body scrapes the rear tire when i get on the throttle, so i need something big to tame down body roll.

 

[Mo']

Adding sway bars will allow you to keep running soft springs and reap the performance benefits they give you. Putting harder springs on is an easier fix, but its more masking the issue than really working with it while preserving a supple suspension.


Instead of turning it into a pogo stick on wheels, some sway bars would be a much better option. If putting a simple U bend sway bar on the lower links isnt enough, some chassis mounted ones that connect directly to the axles will be in order.

 

[leeasam]

contact Hesse machine and use their chassis mount sway bars. Mount high in the chassis. They are pretty muhc like the real trucks. personally do not like any of the sway bars that mount on the lower bars or low in the chassis. Biggest mistake too for good bump and jump handling is going stiff springs.

 

[JKRacing37]

i just bent up some 2.0mm mountain bike spokes and zip tied them to the chassis, and lower links like the cpe ssway bars. i have yet to run it but just from feel it seems much stiffer. i want to build some cantilever style sway bars though. i think it would be much stiffer.

I have some K&S rod that I bent up and attached to the lower links like the CPE sways....much better handling. Probably not as good as a cantilever system but compared to the handling before putting them on it's night and day.

 

[Brian34]

contact Hesse machine and use their chassis mount sway bars. Mount high in the chassis. They are pretty muhc like the real trucks. personally do not like any of the sway bars that mount on the lower bars or low in the chassis. Biggest mistake too for good bump and jump handling is going stiff springs.

There is only one issue with the cantilever type sway bars; the cantilevers are held in place on the crossbar by setscrews.

If you use those cantilever sway bars in a high power brushless truck, those setscrews will most-likely not hold the cantilevers in place, and they will start flopping around.

Don't get me wrong, I love the cantilever style bars, particularly because they're just like the ones that the real trucks use.

Mike Hesse does make some really nice ones.

Its just the setscrews that I have issue with.

I tried blue threadlock, and then red threadlock, and Neither of them held the cantilevers in place.

So, as bummed out by it as I was, I resorted to link mounted sway bars, and they are doing a pretty good job so far. I just need to get my shocks dialed in.

 

[leeasam]

There is only one issue with the cantilever type sway bars; the cantilevers are held in place on the crossbar by setscrews.

If you use those cantilever sway bars in a high power brushless truck, those setscrews will most-likely not hold the cantilevers in place, and they will start flopping around.

Don't get me wrong, I love the cantilever style bars, particularly because they're just like the ones that the real trucks use.

Mike Hesse does make some really nice ones.

Its just the setscrews that I have issue with.

I tried blue threadlock, and then red threadlock, and Neither of them held the cantilevers in place.

So, as bummed out by it as I was, I resorted to link mounted sway bars, and they are doing a pretty good job so far. I just need to get my shocks dialed in.

I have not actually seen these in person but they should have a flat spot on the rod for the set screw to lock. of not yes they will slip under high torquing. alot of force there for a tiny set screw. If they did not have one I would grind a flat spot or drill out the arms for a larger rod and the ngrind a flat spot. nothing a little tinkering will not cure to make it work right.

 

[Brian34]

I have not actually seen these in person but they should have a flat spot on the rod for the set screw to lock. of not yes they will slip under high torquing. alot of force there for a tiny set screw. If they did not have one I would grind a flat spot or drill out the arms for a larger rod and the ngrind a flat spot. nothing a little tinkering will not cure to make it work right.

On my truck, I have the HPI RSMT-2 rear shocks, with yellow springs link mounted. I also have the CPE Predator sway bars. I just changed to 60 wt oil, and that seems to be working for me right now. My truck is a GP not a WK; I posted here because the trucks are kind of similar, and I was have the same issue as in the topic of this thread...

Also, my cantilever sways did have a flat spot on the bar to set the setscrew, but that did not help at all. If there was a bar that a bolt could be screwed into, held in place by a nut, I think that would hold, but a set screw won't.