Stampede Faq

Orange Pedeanaut

Hamster Power Racing RC
Originally posted by DIGGER

Stampede FAQ

Okay EVERYONE (THIS MEANS YOU!!!), please take the few minutes necessary to read this topic BEFORE posting your question. The answer just might be here and will save valuable space and time by negating the need for so many questions to be asked over and over again. If the answer you need isn't here yet, post the question in a reply to this topic and I'll try to answer it and update the post.

In the emaxx forum, WillG helped to create the "emaxx FAQ's" filled with excellent info and resources for the emaxx. It has basically everything the new emaxx owner could need. I want to do the same here. I will be compiling a list of stampede frequently asked questions to be posted here for all to see. Please make suggestions to it as you see fit. I will cover everything from hop-ups to 4x4 conversions to bearings. What do you guys think? this way the new people can quickly locate what info they are looking for and the "old timers" don't have to answer the same question again and again. Let me hear your suggestions. Thanks.:)

Stampede Frequently asked questions:

1. What is the Stampede?

The Stampede is a 2 wheel drive, 1/10th scale radio controlled monster truck produced by Traxxas Corporation. It features fully independent suspension with true racing geometry combined with an elevated chassis with tons of ground clearance. It has the speed and handling of a race truck with the heart of a true monster. It has now been around for going on 20 years and has seen several changes over the years.

2. Does the Stampede require assembly?

The Stampede was available in three forms:
a) Ready to run, complete with an electronic speed control, radio and a pre-painted body.
B) Ready to run, same as above, but with a mechanical speed control(not as efficient or as easy to use as an electronic speed control).
c) Unassembled Kit, includes motor, mechanical speed control and un-painted clear body. Requires full assembly.
Now, it is mainly in the ready-to-run versions with many different options for batteries, radios and motors.

3. Which version is better?

That really depends on several factors. Building the kit version isn't very hard at all and it teaches you about the internal workings of the truck. Replacing broken parts becomes very easy once you have built the truck yourself, it is easier to add hop-ups such as bearings while you're building it, plus there is always the satisfaction of doing it yourself. If you decide to go the ready-to-run route, the truck comes out of the box built, painted and needs only a few things done to it to drive it. The mechanical speed control can be very frustrating to adjust and has only three steps in acceleration forward and reverse, while the electronic speed control has much smoother acceleration, is much easier to set up and is more reliable than the mechanical one. Only you can decide which version is right for you.

4. How hard is the kit version to assemble?(if you can even find a kit version anymore)

Assembly of the kit is not hard at all. The included instructions spell everything out clearly and there are plenty of pictues to help explain different procedures. The only tools required are basic hand tools such as a number 1 and number 2 phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a flat bladed screwdriver, hobby knife, jewlers flat bladed screwdriver, CA glue or "superglue", electrical tape and some "3 in 1" machine oil. There are a few other tools you'll need, but they are all included with the kit. Experienced builders can assemble it in only a couple hours while beginners may take a few evenings to complete it.

5. What are the best kind of battery packs to get?

Battery packs come in all shapes and sizes. The Stampede chassis is designed to accept 6 cell "stick" packs or 7 cell "hump" packs. The difference between the two types is mainly the voltage output. The 7 cell pack will make you faster than the 6 cell because it has 1.2 more volts. If you plan on racing your Stampede, you should check the rules for the track regarding the number of cells allowed to race, many tracks limit you to only running 6 cells. There are several different brands of battery packs available as well as different types(Nicd, Lipo, Life or Nimh) to choose from. More on this later...

6. Should I buy NiCD or NiMH battery packs?

This question is very outdated by now. I don't think Nicds are even still available, but I'll leave the info in there for posterity.

People that have a typical low budget NiCD charger should probably stick with NiCD battery packs because these chargers were not designed to charge NiMH packs. However, there are some fairly economical peak chargers that will charge both NiMH and NiCD batteries (see point 7), which makes buying either NiCD or NIMH batteries an option for you. NOTE: NiMH batteries can be destroyed by excessive heat; as such, be careful not to overcharge your NiMH packs or gear your truck wrong, which can cause these packs to excessively heat up.

7. What battery charger should I buy?

There are many choices, but below are some recommendations in the sport and racing categories. These chargers are recommended because they can charge both NiCD and NiMH battery packs, are produced by companies that stand behind their products and are readily available. The Millennium charger requires a DC power supply, but the Intellipeak includes a power supply.

Sport: DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger ($49)
Race: Novak Millennium DC Charger ($139) + DC Power Supply ($119)

8. I got my Stampede RTR, do I have to do anything before I run it?

Yes, you should go over the truck carefully checking for loose screws, loose wire connections and make sure the pinion is aligned properly with the spur and that the pinion's grub screw is tight. You will also have to install the body and the antenna tube. A building tip is to take the tires off the rims and carefully wash the bead area on both the tire and rim with either denatured alcohol or window cleaner. Drill a small hole (1/8") between the inner and outer beads to allow airflow in and out of the rim. Once dry, re-install the tires and carefully glue them to the rims. Otherwise the tires may come off the rims while cornering hard or landing jumps. Now you should be ready to go!

9. What are the best hop-ups for it?

First, the basic essentials are an ESC (Electronic Speed Control) and Ball bearings.

a) What is an Electronic Speed control and what can it do for me?

Stock, most of the Stampedes come with a mechanical speed control, essentially a series of switches that are turned on and off when pulled by the servo. To go at slow speeds, half of the energy is burned off as heat in the resistors, leaving the rest of the power to propel the vehicle slower. This wastes a lot of energy that could be used more efficiently. Then comes the electronic speed control (ESC). the ESC allows you to move at many speeds, anything between full throttle and a snail's crawl, giving you fully proportional control. For an esc to go at low speeds, it is like a very fast moving switch. The esc pulses power to the motor at a very high rate, making it slower while not wasting evergy. By using an esc, you have more run time, less troubles, and faster top speeds.

B) Which ball bearings should I buy?

The standard Stampede bearing set should be ok for average use, but who doesn't push their truck to the max?? Well, for the 90% of us, we want durability, we want to be able to jump anything without worries. For more durability, switch the front and rear bearing carriers. the stock bearing size is 5x8x2.5mm, which is weaker and much more prone to blow-outs because they are so small. Thankfully, RPM makes a nice set of bearing carriers that allow the use of larger bearings, the "industry standard" 5x11 mm size. These upgraded carriers aren't cheap, they cost about $8 a pair, but they are well worth it!

Another option for the rear is Traxxas part number 4354 which are 5x11mm rear bearing carriers for another vehicle in traxxas's line, but they just so happen to fit the stampede perfectly. They might cause the rear tires to "camber in" a little more than stock, but if you have turnbuckle style camber links, it's really quick and easy to adjust the wheels back to normal. These are only $3 a pair, less than half the cost of the RPM rear carriers.

insane stampede found a way to use the Traxxas 4 Tec rear Carriers for the front of the Pede as well as the rear. Heres how it's done: Take the old front axle carriers off of the caster blocks. Next take the 4 Tec carriers and hold them the way they would be going on the truck and cut the second hole off. This hole is next to where the screw goes to hold the carrier to the caster block. This works good with an adjustment to the turnbuckles. This may sound confusing but when you look where it goes it gets easier.

Many people say that Boca Bearings make the highest quality bearings, but for most people, duratrax rubber/teflon/fiber sealed bearings should be fine. They are still MUCH better than the stock bushings. If you do plan to buy 5x11 bearing carriers, just buy the Nitro Stampede bearing set. Coincidentally, it has 8 - 5x11 mm bearings -- exactly the amount needed for your bearing carriers, all for 9.99 at tower. Bearings will increase runtime, acceleration and top speed.

Later, you can add almost any type of hop-up you can imagine from bumpers to full race chassis kits with bellcrank steering and cantilevered suspension. More on this later..

10. I want to upgrade to an electronic speed control, which one should I buy?

There are many different options available when purchasing an esc. First you need to decide if you want to keep reverse or not. Then you need to determine how much money you can spend on it. You also need to think about what type of motors you plan on running in the future, make sure the esc you buy will be able to handle the motor you want. One of the most popular choices is the Novak Rooster speed control. It is backed by a strong company with good customer service and can handle mild modified motors while still retaining reverse. Want reverse and still be able to drive extremely hot modified motors? Then look at the Novak Super Rooster esc, it can handle any single modified motor or even dual mild modified motors(in case you plan on converting your stampede to 4 wheel drive).

11. What does the slipper clutch do?

The slipper clutch provides added protection for the gears when landing from jumps and driving in rough terrain by absorbing the impact to the drive train. It can also act as a traction control by letting the spur gear slip to help keep the rear tires hooked up in loose terrain. Most stampedes come standard with a slipper clutch now, but they haven't always. Some of the older kits didn't include one and they had to be added. If your truck doesn't have one, it is definitely worthwhile to get.

12. How do I adjust the slipper clutch correctly?

To adjust the slipper clutch, either remove the gearcover or just the small rubber plug from it. Using the 4-way wrench supplied with your truck you can tighten or loosen the slipper clutch. To find the correct adjustment, tighten the slipper clutch little by little, while testing it by hitting full throttle from stopped on a high traction surface such as carpeting. Tighten it until it only slips for a foot or two when you launch hard on carpet before fully engaging the transmission. You will be able to tell by the way the truck acts and sounds when it is slipping. Note: A good starting point is to tighten the slipper nut all the way, then back it off 1/8-1/4 turn.
Turns out that the Emaxx and pede share the following parts,
4685 Friction pegs, slipper (12)
4622 Pressure rings, slipper (notched) (2)
4625 Pressure plate, slipper (1)
1994 Slipper tension spring/ spur gear bushing & locknut
So, looks like the slipper is probably the same in both!

13. Are there any known problems with the Stampede?

Yes, there are. If you are hard on the truck or bump into a lot of things with the front tires, the stock caster blocks have been known to break, causing the kingpins to bend. There are several ways to stop this from happening:

a)Install the optional Traxxas e-clip style kingpins which trap the caster block, making it much harder to break.

b)Install the RPM wide front bumper. This is much wider than stock and is very durable. It has saved many people's caster blocks from damage.

c)Install an aluminum caster block set. There are a few different types and brands available, including ones from Thunder Tech and GPM(If you are using the RPM front carriers, GPM says on their website that they wont work with the GPM aluminum caster blocks).

d) Some people have also drilled out the kingpin hole to 3mm and used a much thicker 3mm screwpin in place of the stock 2.5mm one. This also works well.

Another known problem is the durability of the stock 5x8x2.5mm bearing carriers, see point #9 B) above.

Yet another problem some people have is the upgraded steel output yokes slipping off of the diff output shafts. One way to solve this is to carefully clean the setscrews and the inside of the yoke where the setscrews go with alcohol, then re-assemble the parts with Lock-tite, blue for removable, red for permanent.
Insane Clodopede found another way to deal with the problem of the steel yokes coming off:
You will need a Drill, a small drill bit (I forgot what size I used) and a pin slightly smaller than the drill but your using, and a punch. Take the differential out of the truck. Take the gears out of the diff. Get the two gears with the shafts on them and set the rest aside for now. Put one of the shafted gears in a vise, making sure not to crush the ears on the gear. Take the setscrews out of the steel output and set it on the shaft, just like you would if you were screwing them on. Take the punch and make a mark where the setscrews usually touch on the shaft. Get the output off of the shaft and VERY CAREFULLY drill a hole that goes all the way thru the mark you made. Do the same for the other side. When you get the diff back together and put in the truck, slide the outputs on without the setscrews. Slide the pins thru the setscrew hole and thru the hole you drilled. After this, take some shrink wrap or heat tubing and shrink it over the outputs, making sure that the pins stay in. You should now have no problems with the steel outputs.

I have never had my steel yokes come off personally, but enough people have mentioned it to include this info here.

The plastic motor mount can cause problems if you run a hot mod motor overgeared. It can actually melt if your gearing is REALLY off. JayJordan found a way to mount a metal motor mount to the stock pede transmission.

14. How or where do I install my new ESC?

There are a couple of different ways you can do this:

a) Buy and install an RPM ESC tray. This is a nice pre-molded tray that fits over the stock Mechanical speed control mounting area and gives you a large flat surface to mount the esc to.

B) Make your own ESC tray. just cut out a rectangle of any type of material like plastic, aluminum or even thick lexan and mount it accross the rear of the chassis, right over the hole for the Mech. speed control's servo.

c) Zip-tie it to the rear shock tower. Simple, but effective.

*Note: some esc's come with servo-style mounting tabs on either side. If the one you bought has these, just mount it in the mech. speed control's servo mount location for the cleanest install possible.

(15) I want more speed/torque for my Stampede, what motor is best and how should I gear it?

A:(i) In electric motors, the lower the number of turns, the faster a motor typically is. The lower turn motors will draw a lot more current from the ESC and battery, which will decrease run-times and create heat. Make sure you have a speed control capable of handling the motor you wish to use. The number of winds of the motor signifies the amount of torque at low RPM's that a motor has. Motors are available in everything from singles to hexes and everything in between. The Stampede is an off-road truck, therefore a motor with more low-RPM torque is typically preferred. (Shoot for single or double wound motors.)

Some good motor choices would be:
a.) Kyosho's Magnetic Mayhem 22x1 (Normal Version)for torque and good run-times.
b.) Trinty's Speed Gems 2 series or Kyosho Mad Science 17x1 and 19x2 for speed, torque and decent run-times.
c.) 27x1, 24 degree, ROAR legal motors for Stock racing. Stock motors will have less power in reverse, but good run-times and speed.
d.) Trinity's Speed Gems or Kyosho Mad Science 14x2, 16x3 for speed, jumping and shorter run-times without high-power batteries.

(ii) The stock Stampede uses a 20turn modified geared at 18/87(48 pitch, see #25 below). This combination
offers a good balance of speed, torque and run-times. In gearing a new Modified motor, I've found it is a simple starting point to gear two-teeth lower than the number of turns of the motor (see part 1) for the pinion, while using the stock 87 tooth or a 90 tooth Spur gear. For example, when using a 16x3 modified I would try gearing 14/90 for starters. If the motor is very cool after running through a full battery, you can put on a larger pinion or smaller spur, in increments of 1-3 teeth per run. It is far better to have a cool-running motor than a hot one, as the hot motor will have a shorter lifespan and drain the battery faster. Stock motors do not apply to the 2 tooth rule, instead just drop 1 pinion tooth for speed (17), and 2 (16) for torque.

(16)Q. My steering servo makes a ticking sound, or doesn't work anymore, what should I do?

A. You probably stripped the gears in your steering servo. You can get replacement gears for the traxxas servo the part # is 2010. They come with instructions and are easy to replace. Most other servos have replacement gears available for them as well. But, don't expect the new gears to last any longer than the ones they are replacing.
You'd probably be better off replacing your servo with a high-torque, metal-gear, ball-bearing servo. Some popular choices include:
<TABLE BORDER=1 CELLPADDING=2 CELLSPACING=1 WIDTH="95%" align=center><tr><td>Servo model</TD> <td> torque (4.8v/6v)</TD> <td>transit time (4.8v/6v)</TD> <td>cost</TD></tr><tr>
<td>FMA 355mg</TD> <td>100/111 oz-in</TD> <td>.33/.27 sec </TD> <td>$22</TD> </tr><tr><td>Cirrus CS80MG</TD><td> /130 oz-in</TD> <td> /.25 sec</TD> <td>$24</TD> </tr><tr><td>Hitec HS-605MG </TD><td>77/91 oz-in</TD><td>.16/.13 sec </TD><td>$40</tr><tr><td>Hitec HS-615MG</TD> <td>107/132 oz-in</TD><td>.21/.18 sec</TD><td>$40</TD></tr><tr><td>Futaba S9404</TD><td> /80 oz-in</TD><td> /.11 sec </TD><td>$80</TD></tr><tr>
<td>Hitec HS-945MG</TD><td>122/153 oz-in</TD><td>.15/.12 sec</TD><td>$90</TD></tr><tr><td>Airtronics 94258</TD><td>145 oz-in (at 6v?)</TD><td>.09 sec</TD><td>$115</TD></tr></table>

For reference, the stock traxxas steering servo is: Traxxas 2018 42 oz-in .22 sec at 4.8v

You should also replace your stock servo saver with a Kimbrough #121 servo saver (since the stock one didn't save your servo!) they are much softer than the stock one which is so stiff it doesn't actually give before the gears strip.</p>

<color=red>(17)What do I need to make a Clodapede(a 2wd Pede with Clod sized tires)?</p></color>

To make a Clodapede, you need to either make your own wheels, or buy Clod wheel adaptors, commonly made by JJ's Precision Guesswork. JJ's Adaptors have a drilling template to help you drill into the clod wheel. They are about 50.00. To make your own there are a few ways, but basicly it is done by glueing, or epoxying a set of stampede wheels inside a set of clod wheels. Then trim the pede wheels using a dremel or similar tool. Next open the center of the clod wheel to fit a nut driver through. (JJ is a longtime member here, and a moderator. He usually hangs out in the Bruiser forum. You can find his e-mail address at the bottom of his posts.)
In addition to rims, or adaptors, you need to buy 6 inch Clod type tires, Duratrax makes the V-Spike, then there is stock Clod tires, and Kyosho USA-1 tires all work. The duratrax, being the cheapest is about $15.00 a pair, (you get what you pay for, they are not always round ) or $30.00 for a whole set of 4.
Next, to help turn those big 6" tires, you need to change your gear ratio. All you need is a larger spur gear, from 87 up to 96 tooth, and probably a new Pinion, from 18 down to 12 tooth. For a stock Stinger motor, you need to gear it at about 12/96 or 12/93. If you don't change your gear ratio the ESC, and batteries will get to hot and runtime will be zilch. Another option for motors is the Magnetic Mayhem motor. With one of these installed in your clodapede, 14/87 gearing(or close to this) is just about perfect with the clod sized tires since this motor puts out much more torque than the average stock or mod motor.</p>

<color=red>(18) Q: Is it OK to drive my pede in the snow and rain?</p></color>

A: NO. Water and electronics do not mix. Unless you take steps to keep the electronics in your truck dry, they are likely to be damaged by driving in water, mud, or snow. That said, there are several ways to try to keep the electronics in your truck dry.
Note none of these will make it completely waterproof so don't send your pede swimming. One simple technique is to simply wrap everything well in plastic "cling" wrap. This is functional enough, but it is difficult to change batteries. You also have to be careful the heat from the ESC does not melt the plastic. Another method is to mount your receiver and ESC inside a sealed plastic-rubber container, then strap this container to the truck with big rubber bands or Velcro. This works fine in cold weather, but, in hot weather care has to be taken that the ESC does not overheat since in a sealed container there is no cooling airflow. Another popular method is to put the receiver inside a balloon (seal the opening the wires come out with a zip tie or something). Then cut the top and bottom off a two liter plastic pop bottle, and slit it down the side. The pop bottle can then be placed over the top of the chassis (covering the speed control) and either taped or Velcro'ed in place. If you use this method it might be a good idea to seal the ESC as best as possible - just in case. This can be done by using the rubber plugs supplied with many ESC's, or by putting a piece of tape over adjusting screw openings, then sealing all the rest of the openings with either silicone sealer or liquid electrical tape. You might want to seal the servo case in the same way (although they do not seem to be a vulnerable as the receiver or ESC).
There are many other creative things you can do to keep your electronics dry. The key is to make sure they stay dry or be prepared to replace them or have them repaired. The motor is not harmed quite as easily by water. Try to dry it out well, then just clean it out and relube after running in wet or muddy places.</p>

<color=red>(19) My body cracked, is there anything I can do?</p></color>

Basically no, the stock pede body is not the greatest. Many aftermarket bodies are available the look and last much longer. Note: If you can't replace the body just yet, try coating the inside of the cracks, or high stress areas of the body with shoe-goo (or similar). Also by glueing body washers to the inside of the body under the mounting holes tends to help w/ durability.</p>

<color=red>(20) I think I have a motor prob! Or "my motor needs a rebuild"</p></color>

The motor is making a funny noise, there are large sparks coming from under the endbell, or its not smooth its running jittery.

Are you sure its the motor and not the gear mesh? Your pinion-spur gear mesh might be off. If that's ok clean the motor out w/ some motor spray and inspect it, does it turn freely? (you might have a pebble or piece of debris lodged inside) If you have a motor with removeable brushes, take the brushes out and spray clean again. If the brushes are worn, (short or burnt looking) replace them. If you have a comm stick use it, place the pinion shaft in a drill or dremel and clean your commutator. Spray it clean again. Put it back together and give it a try. NOTE: Motor spray $5.00 Comm stick, $5-9.00 Brushes $1-4.00 Brush springs $2-5.00 Also, if you have to most LHS's or tracks offer a comm cutting service, if you can't get your commutator clean a cut is usually 2, or 3 dollars. Your motor should now run like new.</p>

<color=red>(21) I need some info, I broke some parts and don't know what they are, can you help?</p></color>

Here is a page with Traxxas stampede exploded views. Just pic the area you need and it's all there complete.

<color=red>(22) How do I make my stampede 4 wheel drive?</p></color>

There are any number of ways you can do this. Most of them involve mounting another stampede transmission onto the front of your stampede with a reverse rotation motor in it that matches the rear normal rotation motor. The arms need to be modified or custom made to fit some type of caster block/steering block combination along with the front drive shafts. You can shorten a pair of stock rear arms to use as the front arms and use the stampede or bandit front caster blocks along with a rear hub carrier turned sideways as a steering block with the bottom hole shaved off for clearance. Some people have also used CVD's along with TLO1 tamiya parts. I have even seen people use HPI parts for the front end with good success. Throughout several of the pages of this stampede forum there are numerous posts about different people's 4x4 stampedes and how they did it. You just need to look close to find them.
I could post some pics here, but I wont in the interest of saving space for faster load times.</p>

<color=red>(23) I've blown my shock caps, or my shocks need rebuild</p></color>

The 2 main reasons I can think that cause a shock cap to blow are:

<FONT COLOR="aqua"><BIG>1.</FONT></BIG> Overfilling the shock with oil. If the shock has too much oil in it, excess pressure will blow a cap off.

When your shocks are completely apart, cleaned and ready to be refilled, follow this procedure.

With the shock shaft fully extended, fill up the shock body with shock oil of desired weight (for really big jumps 40-60 wt oil is used with 2 hole pistons). You want to fill just level with the shock body.

Now slowly compress the shock shaft to help release any air bubbles in the oil. It's ok if any oil spills out, just wipe up and continue. Repeat as necessary.

Once all the bubbles are out, extend the shaft fully. Now take your shock cap and check the rubber bladder. Does it have any holes or tears in it? Are the cap's threads stripped? If so, replace them. Now place the cap on the shock and tighten it on the shock body. Some oil will leak out and this is normal. With the cap tightened, try and compress the shaft.

Does the shaft go in only half way?? If it does, then unscrew the cap a turn or 2 and compress the shaft so some oil leaks out. Then tighten the cap again and check that your shock shaft compresses all the way. If you can compress the shock all the way, then you should see it rebound a little.

If you got this far, then your shock should be properly filled. If you can compress the shaft all the way, but it doesn't rebound, you need to add a little more oil and repeat the above procedure.

<FONT COLOR="aqua"><BIG>2.</FONT></BIG> The piston pushes up into the shock too far and blows the cap.
When I have rebuilt shocks I have somtimes noticed that when you compress the shock shaft all the way, that the piston extends past the shock body into the cap. This is a bad situation which ultimately leads to blown caps.

A solution is to add some spacers to the outside of the shock shaft.

Remove the shock spring and spring retainer. Now wrap something aroung the shaft
so you don't scratch it and remove the ball end from the shaft. Now insert some o-rings or a small piece of fuel tubing on the shaft.

Screw the ball end back in and rebuild the shock.

Now when the shock compresses, the o-ring or fuel tubing acts a a cushion and prevents the piston from slamming into the cap and blowing it off.</p>

<color=red>(24) I've heard you can make the pede a 4x4, is this true</p></color>

Yes you can.
In fact there are a few ways, some better than others. I would check out[/b] for info</p>

<color=red>(25) What Pitch are the gears and what is pitch?</p></color>

The stock transmission gears are 48 pitch as are the pinion and spur gears. Pitch is how many teeth there are for a given diameter of gear. for instance, a 48p of a 1" diameter size gear will have 48 teeth in that inch. Although the standard pitch for the Stampede is 48, you can use 32 pitch pinions on the pede if you get an appropriate sized 32p spur gear, but it is generally reccomended to just stay with the 48p stuff which is plenty durable for the weight of the pede.

Ok guys... time for a break...:lol This is a work in progress.</p>[/dohtml]

Here is a list of links, courtesy of aconsola:

Hua at RC4wd:

Edgewise RC:

ESP Hobby






Radical Chassis Midwest

RD Racing Products Stampede

Robinson racing


Thundertech racing


Trick parts

Xtreme Racing[/html]
Last edited by a moderator:
OK I looked at the new pedes trans assembly and these are the parts you need to put the new revo clutch on the old truck (Please correct me if I am wrong.)

Tower Hobbies Stock Number - Traxxas Part Number - Part Name

LXKMG3 - 5552 - Traxxas Slipper Clutch Rebuild Kit Jato
LXKMG7 - 5556 - Traxxas Slipper Pressure Plate & Hub Jato
LXDGG3 - 2554 - Traxxas Back Plate Screws TRX 2.5 (6)
LXHFS7 - 5116 - Traxxas Ball Bearings 5x11x4mm Revo (2)
LXNMN4 - 3793 - Traxxas Shaft Slipper Clutch w/Roll Pin
LXNMN8 - 4686 - Traxxas Spur Gear 86T 48P
LXNMN6 - 4676 - Traxxas Spur Gear 76T 48P
LXNMN7 - 4683 - Traxxas Spur Gear 83T 48P
LXNMN9 - 4690 - Traxxas Spur Gear 90T 48P

*** Edit: Added the top shaft into the list***
Originally posted by Pullstarter@Aug 3 2006, 10:25 PM
Are the spur gears available anywhere yet? I can't find anywhere that has them in stock, also will this setup fit on the stock slipper shaft?
Good thing you posted that. They are indeed diferent. The old one is Traxxas part number 1993 and the new one is part number 3793.

so in the format as above:

LXNMN4 - 3793 - Traxxas Shaft Slipper Clutch w/Roll Pin

But unfortunatly it is not in stock.


Site Administrator
Super Moderator
locking a pede diff...

its really quite easy.
for those of you not sure, here it is...


william g

Item no. 3619 is a complete set (F&R) of the "new style" adjustable adjustable posts as included with Grave Digger.

expect them to be in stores by the end of April.

Other Monster Jam item nos. ...

Grave Digger body, painted 3680
Maximum Destruction body, painted 3682
Monster Mutt body, painted 3681
Grinder body, painted 3679

Monster Jam wheels, rear 3664
Monster Jam wheels, front 3666
Monster Jam tires 3667
Monster Jam mounted tires/front 3665
Monster Jam mounted tires/rear 3663