sidewinder sv2 issues... SUCCESS! page 3

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by joe, Jul 23, 2011.

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  1. Jul 28, 2011 #41

    joe

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    finally... SUCCESS!!!
    :willy

    removed the Y and mixed throttle with aux, and upped the value to 100%.
    everything works now as far as i can tell.
    ill try to get an actual test run tomorrow or over the weekend.

    here are a few pics of my setup:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jul 28, 2011 #42

    ZRP_Racing

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    I'll throw this out there for you.

    :wish
     
  3. Jul 28, 2011 #43

    Budhatrain

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    Here's what I sent to Castle via email:

    "Dear Castle Support, this is a final attempt on my part to communicate that, with my experience (and the testimony of others), the newer Sv2 sidewinder esc cannot handle running (serious cogging on take-off) a single 2S lipo using a parallel battery plug (y-harness for the escs). This setup is ideal for us in the clodbuster racing scene and was a great partnership with the older sidewinder esc- it was considered the way to go for a dual brushless setup. Here is another thread being discussed on rcmt.net (this is one of many) http://www.rcmt.biz/bd/showthread.php?21349-sidewinder-sv2-issues...&p=189900#post189900

    I am confident that I have properly setup and even troubleshooted this problem- I called in three times to Castle Support and also from suggestions of veteran racers. I own 4 race trucks- 2 run the older sidewinders with cm4600kv motors, 1 with the new SCT 3800kv 4 pole motors with the sv2 and now my newest one I chose to go with ezrun 60amp 5.5T.

    I have attempted everything: re-setup of radio and esc,rebinding, latest firmware, rpm calibrating, timing, running 4-poles or the cm4600kv motors, higher 65C discharge quality 2s lipo, 1 red wire, 2 red wire, no red wire, external bec, using a seperate power supply for servo, digital and anolog servos, a prayer before hand---- I am serious EVERYTHING. The only way to make this work without cogging is to use a single 2s lipo for each esc.

    This has been my experience and the experience of a few others that I talk with on RCMT. There are not as many guys using the new systems as are currently using the older versions- at this point I do not know of many guys who will buy the newer systems with this feedback out there. We also understand that what we do with the systems is unique and not a major demand. But I have not heard of a single person being able to run this setup- except for your resident clod guy. I recently did a new race clod build and went ahead and purchased 2 ezrun systems for my project. I prefer to stick with castle and really like the new price point of the new sidewinder systems but if they cannot do what we need them to do then we are stuck- and either need to pick up older units (more costly) or go with other brands.

    Please help me Obi Wan- you are my only hope."


    Here is their Response:

    "Have you tried updating the ESC to the latest version for firmware with a Castle Link?

    Electrically, there is no difference between one larger battery in parallel or two smaller batteries to each ESC except that with running the two separate batteries will start showing different voltage and the motors will run at different speeds. If the total mah is the same with one battery and the combined total of two separate cell to each ESC there is no difference as far as the ESCS are concerned. If you are trying to run the same sized battery using one pack in parallel as what you would run to each motor individually you only have half the power going to each motor in the parallel set up and you simple do not have enough battery to get both motors to star smoothly. You can parallel two packs together then parallel these to each ESC to double the capacity of smaller packs of this is the issue. If the mah of your single pack is twice that of two batteries, one to each ESC, there is no electrical difference so the problem has to elsewhere.

    BTW, the minimum to run each system with no cogging is 4,000 mah, 30c or better. This means it will take 8,000 mah, 30c or better to get the same power to each system. This is why paralleling two packs then splitting to each system to keep the voltage the same is the best way to go. One 4,000 mah 30c battery for two motors is only 2,000 mah each which is not close to enough to get these system to start smoothly."
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  4. Jul 28, 2011 #44

    joe

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    Yeah, that doesn't make any sense... upping the mah shouldn't effect anything except run time.
    And for the record; my response was from Bernie at Castle.
     
  5. Jul 28, 2011 #45

    Budhatrain

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    I think I am willing to put together a quick flip video to show the layout and function of my other trucks with older sidewinders and then with the newer systems. I want this to work soooo bad... but I am right at the line of just walking away. I responded back and hopefully was respectful and clear. We will see. I think I might try the thing like you are doing with the radio- because that will clean up the rats nest of wires I have in there- maybe it might change something too.
     
  6. Jul 28, 2011 #46

    snow walker

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    So I wounder if I can do this with my DX3E? Assuming I can get it to bind. Keep us updated!
     
  7. Jul 29, 2011 #47

    JKRacing37

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    Battery capacity is not only the ability of a battery to deliver energy over "X" amount of time for a given discharge rate, but also the ability for a battery to sustain a certain voltage under a load. The higher the load / higher the discharge rate the more this effect is exagerated.
     
  8. Jul 29, 2011 #48

    nosyajg

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    while not sidewinders, i run dual mamba max pros with a single 5000mah/40-50c 2s lipo, or a single 4000mah/45-90c 3s lipo and i have very very minimal cogging...only when creeping up to the starting line...none if i gun it off the start or any at any other time...and this is on a all aluminum truck with 20tooth pinions...

    just another data point for the 8000mah/30c argument...
     
  9. Jul 29, 2011 #49

    joe

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    I was thinking about this a bit more...
    even if i do finally get a good test run out of this sytem, it might not really be a "success".
    Ive got over $300 in radio equipment!
    so unless someone can duplicate the results with a lower priced setup, it still kind of sucks.
    :bang

    Im hoping it will stop raining so i can test drive it tonite.
    I did hold it in the air and give it throttle with no cogging.
    when my other rigs cogged, they would cog when I held them up to do this.
    I gave it gradual throttle and then brake and slowly reversed.
    never "punched" the throttle; it probably would have flown out of my hand!
     
  10. Jul 29, 2011 #50

    joe

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    Well, I got rained out, but drove it around the apartment...
    no signs of cogging yet.
    and not even a great lipo in it.
     
  11. Jul 29, 2011 #51

    4u2nv

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    I was going to say something along those same lines... you can go with a lower "c" rating if your pack has a higher "mah" rating. The higher capacity helps with the amp draw... under extreme acceleration or startup...

    Basically, more mah is better all around, for extended run times and amp draw...
     
  12. Jul 29, 2011 #52

    Mo'

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    I have run 35c 5000mah packs in my BL clods (Sidewinders with 4600's) with no issues. By their numbers it shouldn't run well, but oh boy it does haha.


    The mixing idea is actually alot simpler in the end than using a Y harness. It doesnt seem like it, but it is alot less wire and alot less to worry about failing I have seen a few Y harness's hooked to ESC's fail.. and its . Its also why you invest money in quality electronics that allow you flexibility as technology changes (but thats a whole 'nother discussion).


    Glad its working and your liking it. Its nice to know there is a solid fix now.
     
  13. Jul 29, 2011 #53

    Budhatrain

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    Awesome! that's great to hear....:tmb
     
  14. Jul 30, 2011 #54

    darkchylde415

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    k been up all night and really tired lol, but i couldnt really tell are you using the aux port to run one of the esc??? :conf
     
  15. Jul 30, 2011 #55

    joe

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    ^
    yes, thats exactly it.

    I have one plugged into Throttle, and the other in Aux.
    then on my radio I mixed the channels: Throttle as "Master", and Aux as "slave".
    then I changed the mix value to 100%.
    :tmb
     
  16. Jul 30, 2011 #56

    william g

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    you guys and these new fangled radios.
    Mine still has...

    Manufactured by Slate Inc.
    City of Bedrock, Triassic period Earth
     
  17. Jul 30, 2011 #57

    joe

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    ^
    well get with the times old man!
    mine is almost obsolete already.
    :willy
     
  18. Aug 1, 2011 #58

    Budhatrain

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    here's a new response I received from Castle Creations- I had sent them in another response to the above comments here's what the Tech wrote back

    "Thank you for hanging in there. We have an engineer who was assigned to looking into this. He was finally able to recreate so it is now something we can work on. Right now, try firmware v1.30 and if that doesn?t help try v1.31. According to the engineer who recreated the problem, it might be related to firmware v1.32. In any case, we are working on it and should have a resolution soon."

    So I am going to look at this hopeful later on this week= I am going to try Joe's AUX input and also downgrading the firmware.
     
  19. Aug 2, 2011 #59

    northerngames

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  20. Aug 2, 2011 #60

    snow walker

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    Cool finally!! When I get a chance to download this to my sons truck Fingers crossed I will let you all know if it worked.