Scale Bounty Hunter King Build

KingClod27

KingClod27

Well-Known Member
Bounty Hunter does look very dialed in....You guys should get the other MJ replica bodies too lol....Sonuva Digger, Grave Digger, Monster Mutt.. I think these bodies look waaaaaaay better on the wheely kings anyway...especially how you hae the suspension and ride height setup. Also using the MJ wheels and tires give it a much better look too...
 
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johnnyshore

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys...yeah, the Traxxas bodies are a perfect fit. The stock bodied WK in the video will be a Son Uva Digger next week. One of our regulars wasn't able to come, and he usually rocks a Gravedigger body on his truck. The guy with the white Chevy body has been waiting for his USA-1 stickers to show up for quite a while. They're coming from Europe, and must be on a slow boat.

I'm on the fence about getting a 2nd truck myself...if I do, it'll be a Captains Curse truck for sure.

Next on my agenda is to find/build some scale sized jumps, along with making some "crush cars". Probably get a bunch of 20oz pop bottles, and use those for the cars. The big black jumps work ok, but they're just not very scale.
 
DiggerXX

DiggerXX

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information on that turnbuckle. I'll have I look into it for mine. I'm basically wanting to do the same setup as you are. What weight oil are you using in your shocks now?


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johnnyshore

Well-Known Member
DiggerXX said:
Thanks for the information on that turnbuckle. I'll have I look into it for mine. I'm basically wanting to do the same setup as you are. What weight oil are you using in your shocks now?
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The front shocks on my setup are quite a bit softer than the rears, as most of the weight on the chassis rides over the rear axle.

Front shocks: Bored out the two standard piston holes to 1/16", along with an additional hole of the same size. 30w AE shock oil. .120 internal shock limiting. Cut roughly 3.5 coils off of one end of the springs. No preload clips.

Rear Shocks: Standard piston hole size and # of holes. 35w AE shock oil. No internal limiting. Standard springs. No preload clips.

The Max D truck in the video is running my old suspension setup (rotated axle mounts, stock shock setup (no limiting or piston tuning), and it's not a bad drive, but has less suspension travel, and a bit more rebound on landings, so it's not quite as smooth. The main goal of my new suspension setup is to get the truck to settle as quickly as possible, letting me get back on power sooner. So far, I'm lovin' it! :cool
 
DiggerXX

DiggerXX

Well-Known Member
Awesome! Did you extend the WB at all? I need to do that, I'm headed to the hobby store today, so hopefully I can get enough info on what I need to do it.


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HawnMT

HawnMT

Well-Known Member
I love watching watching your guys videos. I totally understand the statement about the 1080 ramps being out of scale. I'm really hoping our 2.2 class can pick up soon so we can start running on specifically made tracks for them instead of the using the same courses as the Clod sized classes.

For crushed cars try emailing companies that make bodies and ask if they have any flawed ones they'd sell you cheap. There was a guy here locally that made bodies and had like 40+ flawed ones that he sold me for $40. We still use some of them but those teambluegroove ones in the eBay ad are an actual pic of the ours now.
 
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johnnyshore

Well-Known Member
HawnMT said:
I love watching watching your guys videos. I totally understand the statement about the 1080 ramps being out of scale. I'm really hoping our 2.2 class can pick up soon so we can start running on specifically made tracks for them instead of the using the same courses as the Clod sized classes.

For crushed cars try emailing companies that make bodies and ask if they have any flawed ones they'd sell you cheap. There was a guy here locally that made bodies and had like 40+ flawed ones that he sold me for $40. We still use some of them but those teambluegroove ones in the eBay ad are an actual pic of the ours now.
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That's a good idea about the flawed bodies...I'll have to shoot some emails out and see if I can score a deal. Thanks for the tip!
 
DiggerXX

DiggerXX

Well-Known Member
johnnyshore said:
It's a Team Associated titanium turnbuckle. I replaced the stock plastic link for a little more strength.
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You have a link to the right one? There are a lot on there. Also, another question: what size are the Maxx driveshafts? Could I just go in and pick up some Tmaxx or Emaxx shafts and rotate the bottom shock mounts to stretch the Wheelbase like you did?
 
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johnnyshore

Well-Known Member
DiggerXX said:
You have a link to the right one? There are a lot on there. Also, another question: what size are the Maxx driveshafts? Could I just go in and pick up some Tmaxx or Emaxx shafts and rotate the bottom shock mounts to stretch the Wheelbase like you did?
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I can't remember which length turnbuckle I've got up there...I have a bin full of them, and grabbed one that looked about right. This image might give you a good idea as to the length...



On the drive shafts, yes, it's really as simple as rotating the mounts, and using the Maxx axles. You'll have to shorten the maxx shafts a bit (they're too long, even with the extended wheelbase), but that's easy with a dremel or hacksaw.

Keep in mind that the stock sway bar brace will hit the drive shaft after you rotate the axle mounts (you'll see what I mean after connecting everything back up).

Moving the brace to the bottom of the links (stock is on top), and cutting out the rear portion of the brace (see pic below) allows it to clear the shaft.

 
DiggerXX

DiggerXX

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that explanation johnnyshore. I'll have to try and find the right turnbuckle. I'm always open to having one mailed to me. :p
 
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