Roll Bar Or Cage For A Dom/hybrid...


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List your building and or setup tips here. Please post info, not questions.

Good performance engine and carb combo, and any special linkages.

2 speed gear sets and how to set them up, ect.


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Nitro Soda

summer's winding down and it's time for some bashing in the snow (i love winter, can ya tell?? :D ). some may remember this post from the years past but this time it will lack the picures and waterproofing of the servo circut boards then selves (no time to type all that right now...sorry. maybe a lil later i'll add that in.)

this is SO easy yet i don't see too many people doing it!

put EVERYTHING that's electronic in balloons! (even double up the balloons). i used to put zip ties on the balloon necks but you can do more damage trying to clip off the zip tie if you nick a servo wire instead :eek so i don't do this anymore.

things to put in balloons to add to the water resistents of the electronics.

1.RX pack
2. the RX itself
3. servos (yes even servos)
4. ON/OFF switch.

i like my RX packs in balloons just for the rubber coating. plus i make my own battery packs so this makes it more forgiving if i didn't get the shrink wrap just right. ;)

RX. this is a no brainer! you want your RX to be dry and not rattle around. this also helps keep the x-tal in and if it does fall out, it's not lost. it's inside the balloon!

Servo's. people give my truck some pretty weird looks when they see my servos in balloons. (esp when i use weird colored ballons). but i like the idea of having them more resistent to fuel spills and water when bashing threw that puddle ya didn't know was there. it's a little added peace of mind (even though most good servos claim to be "waterproof"). (i put the horn on right over the need to poke holes in it)

the switch! ever seen those "switch covers"?? a quick look at these things and you know they are pretty much worthless... better than nothing sure, but not better than a balloon or 2. actually the best protection for the switch is prolly the switch cover installed over or under an installed balloon. (cause balloons rip after a while). i do this cause a switch is just that, it connects your RX battery to the RX and servos. so if it gets wet it can be like pulling your battery out of your truck!!! who wants that?!?!?

(note that i never claimed anything to be waterproof after doing this tip. i believe very little of anything is truely waterproof. if it is waterproof NOW, give it a little time and punishment... it will leak..water's funny like that)


Well-Known Member
William G

Hey Nitro, try asking a teenager with braces for some of the elastics they use, they're small enough to work decent.
I know what you mean by nicking the wire clipping ties.


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Notes about OFNA Aluminum Lower Front Arms


Broke my lower front arm on my Dominator so I replaced it with the OFNA aluminum one.

What I discovered was that the stock knuckle didn't really work well with the new arm. The reason is that the arm is slightly raised where it attaches to the knuckle and that portion binds when attached.

The result is that you will not be able to utilize the full length of your shock - you basically end up with your a-arms level at best becaue of the binding.

I picked up the aftermarket replacement knuckles which appeared to fix the problem and the arms had full reach now...


I discovered that even with that setup, the steering would bind when the shock was at full extention (this is the long hyper7 shock that comes with the DOM). You won't get more than 15 degrees steering. The steering only improves when you adjust the arms to an almost level position. I put a 10mm spacer in my shock and that seems to have shortened the shock enough.

It's a pity I can't use the shock's full travel though... but I guess the truck is supposed to ride at about "arms-level" height.


I dremeled out some material from the stock knuckle (45 mins was all it took!) and the results were fantastic - no more binding in steering or suspension movement.

Here are some pics of my modified knuckle:

Rear view

Outer view

Front View

Inner view

Top View

Larger images available []here[/link]!


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I've been gone for a while.....but im back.....i figured i would post the SHIMMING of the DIFF being i wrote it and saved it to my HDD

.....first off that "crackle" sound is your ring gear
slipping across the pinion gear.
second when i refer to the "diff " i am talking about the assembly
that holds the plantary gears that the 2 allen head screws go through
to hold on the ring gear....that whole big metal thing with the 2 shafts sticking out
that is the "diff"......
when i talk about the "diff housing" i am referring to the plastic case
that the diff and ring&pinion are all in......the thing that is between the 2 bulkheads.....
ya with me.....ok now to get to business

I am gonna explain to you the whole "theory" behind the crackle
and why it happens......this way in the future you can trouble shoot
and get a good feeling of what you are doing

ok when you hit your brake what is happening is that your are getting resistance
from the brake disc thats slows your drive shafts which are putting resistance
on the pinion gear(if you fully engage your brake that pinion gear isnt gonna turn at all)
which puts resistance on your ring which is attached to the diff which goes through
the drive cups to the CVA's to your wheels

now with that in mind lets concentrate on the diff housing(yes the plastic thing)
when your drive train gets a quick hard brake or a quick throttle blip
it causes an ungodly amount of force on the ring and pinion ......

now this is the good part

what happens is the ring tries to pull away from the pinion gear
( and with the diff attached to the ring it moves also) and with the diff housing
being made of plastic it gives a little, and allows the ring
to become unseated from the pinion causing the crackle

now to fix it:
take the diff housing apart. take the drive cups off and the bearings off the diff
... now you want to add some little washers(shims) between the bearing and the diff
also through a shim or 2 in between the pinion gear shaft and the bearing
(ONLY IF THERE IS should be pretty snug but still spin with no resistance)
put an _ ton of marine grease in it

now throw it all back together and do these steps BEFORE you fire it up

--roll the truck around on the floor and make sure it roles smooth
(it might be a little stiff but thats ok are checking for binding)

--make sure you put the RED LOCK TIGHT on ALL the grub screws
that hold the drive cups in place there are a total of 8 on the whole truck

--do this procedure to BOTH diffs

remember this is a tricky process.....
kinda hit and miss type of deal so if you dont get it on the first try dont get frustrated
......the ring and pinion cost a total of $100
to get all new ones for your truck so it worth taking your time


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I can't remember who started this list and I do not want to take credit for it but it was a great list and I saved it and thought it this would be a good place to put it. Whoever started this please copy it and keep adding to it like you did before, Thanks, RJ
RB Concept

* WS7 Off-Road engine
* C4 .21 Off-Road engine
* 063 tuned racing pipe
* 086 tuned racing pipe
* .21 Off-Road air filter

Paris Racing

* AL650 tuned racing pipe


* long Super Teflon shocks (front/rear) #IFW031
* White (Stiff) shock springs #IFW033W
* Light Blue (Medium) shock springs #IFW033BL
* MP-7.5 shaft (replaces the stock rear center shaft...from Inferno MP-7.5 kit) #KYOIF143

Smash & Bash Racing

* Tall front Titanium shock tower (allows for buggy rears to be mounted on the front) #STF-2
* Titanium rear shock tower ] #STR-1
* Titanium Tower and Plate kits -complete plate kit- (replaces all alum parts) #STP-2
* 7075 Aluminum diff planetaries housings #PH-1
* HD 8mm CV axles #CVA-1
* Titanium Steering Plate #SP-1
* Nylon racing rims (mount maxx rubber)
--- 7 Hole Racing Rims #MPT-1
--- 5 Hole Racing Rims #MPT-2
--- 5 Slot Racing Rims #MPT-3
--- Dish Racing Rims #MPT-4


* MC59's (Hot) #MC-59
* MC8 's (Cold) #MC-8

Grumpy Tom

* 1/4" Lexan bumpers
* 3/8 Lexan bumpers


* Auto air filter (an added outer prefilter helps too)


*16.5mm .21 air filter (Off Road foams) #MS0222-16.5
*15mm .21 air filter (Off Road foams) #MS0221-15


* XS2200SC .21 Off-Road engine


* Aluminum arms (front lower) #OFN18993
* Aluminum arms (front upper) #OFN18994
* Aluminum arms (rear lowers) #OFN18995
* CNC knuckles #OFN18996
* Aluminum Bulkheads #OFN18991
* Steel spur gear #18963
* Lightweight Vented Flywheel
* MT3 wheels -Yellow- 4pak (mounts T-Maxx rubber) #81154
* MT3 wheels -White- 4pak (mounts T-Maxx rubber) #81155
* Long drive cups (from Ultra kit... front/rear use) #30080
* Hyper 7 shocks
* 8mm CVA's for Rear (replaces dog bones/axles) #18081 (F/R part #)
* Aluminum Servo arms
* 5x10 bearings for bell cranks (replaces the bushings) #18077


* Aluminum Bulkheads (front) #MOT-015
* Aluminum Bulkheads (rear) #MOT-016

Mugen Seiki

* Aluminum clutch shoes #C0754
* 1.1 Silver clutch springs #CO753
* 1.0 Black clutch springs (or are these .9?) #C0708
* Big Bore shocks (buggy rears) #C0586
* White (Stiff) shock springs
* Light Blue (Soft) shock springs #C0595


* Multcher (T-Maxx)] #1085-00
* Bowtie treads (T-Maxx)] #1079-00
* GMC Racing body] #3124-00


* Meat Grinder treads (T-Maxx)


* 94358 Steering servo (200oz)] #94358Z
* 94357 Throttle servo (125oz) #94357Z


* XXtra synth FM RX] #24472


* Lynx 3-D radio w/ Spectra Module (x-tal free radio system if used with Xxtra RX!!) #123753
* 615 Throttle/Brake servo (110oz) #32615J


Well-Known Member


I have received a few emails on how I polished the chassis and other parts.

What you will need:
1. Easy off oven cleaner, follow the directions on the can
2. 320, 600, and 1000 grit sand paper (get at an automotive store)
3. hand orbital sander
4. spray adhesive (to get the sand paper from the auto store to stick to the orbital sander
5. aluminum wheel polish
6. Old towel

What you do:
1. Spray the oven cleaner on the chassis. Follow the directions on the can. It will take off most of the anodization for you.
2. Sand the chassis with the 600 grit. If you have any spots that dont want to come off use the 320. Then the 600. Finish off with the 1000 grit paper. At this point it will not be shiny but it will be smooth.
3. Finally take the aluminum polish and the old towel and polish the chassis. BTW this is a lot quicker if you use the orbital sander over the towel.

Total time should be less than three hours.

here is what it looks like.

Many people have e-mailed me about the roll cage we use in our video's, and I finally got pictures and a build description up on my site. The good news, they cost less than $15 to make.
[ newwindow]MP Roll cage[/link]
[ newwindow]Skip's Place[/link]

ntcmb & Glen



Well-Known Member

Today i broke my front cvd, so i took the front cvd off my mbx buggy. Both the Domiator and MBX front CVd's are almost the same you just have to put som shims on the mbx axle before sliding it through the bearings. I just saved $50.;) :p :hat


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2-Speed calculations:

48/52 with 11/15 = 4.3636.../3.4666...
48/52 with 12/16 = 4/3.25

52/56 with 11/15 = 4.7272.../3.7333...
52/56 with 12/16 = 4.33.../3.5

56/60 with 11/15 = 5.0909.../4
56/60 with 12/16 = 4.666..../3.75

The closer you get to 1:1 the faster the ratio is.



Well-Known Member

Here is a quick rundown of my personal price list:

JT chassis (plus brake cams and linkange for center diff) - $160
Ofna cast center diff - $50
TCRC MP diff cases - $130
Dace Mfg. bulks - $160
UE RacerX - $380
UE CVDs - $110
Kyosho IFW30s (4) - $70 (used)
PL servo saver - $40

Other than that I think everything was taken from the MP (radio, motor, diffs, tank). I'm also going to use stock maxx rims and Panther Meatgrinders that I bought for $25 used.

Its up to the builder just how much or little he spends. I went the high $$$ route this time and I plan to keep this setup for a good long while.


Well-Known Member


MP complete chassis $129
Proline bulks (rcboyz) $69.99
Proline susp w/ cvd's(dusty Attic) $129.99

Lundsford 3 5/8 titanium turnbuckles.
Maxx wheels
2 servos

Plus you get a free center diff and rear brake from ofna, with proof of purchase.



Well-Known Member

Another way to strengthen the suspension without going too heavy is to find someone with UE wide trac suspension that are niot worn at the hingepins . Then use the bottom arms and plastic top arms from either 2.5 or RPM. It also looks like the towers would work as they are not the tall knuckleheads and could lowered by cutting bottom and redrilling the top mounting hole. The knucklheads are just too tall. Of course the heavy UE turnbuckles could be used.


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post your hybrid problems, q's, tips, etc. here. mine q's are, can u use any cvd besides mip? and what diff cup do you use? and do you do any chassis mods? im going the pro line way btw, (i broke my custom hybrid :( :crybaby ) here's a tip! It is best to use the STOCK OLD t maxx front turnbuckle for the steering.. also, use the traxxas rod ends as they are smaller than the ofna, and they allow more travel.. thanks all!:bigsmi


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I just put the ProLine bulks on my Titanium chassis from SABR and the used RPM arms but I shortened them 1/8" to allow the new Dynamite CVd's [same lenth as MIP] to still stay inside the long ofna drive cups. You also have to drill the hole deeper for the ball ends to go in far enough. I used the aluminium dynamite steering knuckles or axle holders, but the Traxxess metal ball holders and lock tite them in. I used Traxxess titanium hinge pins. I oil the ball ends because the aluminium axle holers. If I would of had the RPM axle holders in my store I would have used them[I do have them now] I also used the Rpm shock towers. and four ofna super shocks in the rear and four stock rear monster pirate shocks in the front. I used the Lunsford Titanium steering turnbuckles but the stock traxxess buckle in the rear[was out of the long tinaium ones at my store]. to shorten the arms you just put a peice of tape around them for a guide and dremal them off with the cutting wheel[after you put your safety glasses on]


Well-Known Member

A production cage specifically for your hybrid? I seriously dought it.

I have 4 point roll bars in stock for the MP/Dom.
They are made from chrome moly tubing (.25X.035)
and fasten to the chassis in 4 locations (drilling required).
Its strong enough to support 150 lbs but weighs less than
an ounce. The rear main hoop tucks snuggly under the body
and prevents the cabs from crushing in while protecting the engine. Mounting hardware included.
W/ Black primer only (you finish) $40
All other colors (I need a sample) are $50

I make custom cages (using CMT) also but it requires your RTR truck to insure proper fitting. It closely resembles a NASCAR style cage so its very strong yet extremely lite.
It can support 300 lbs (30 g's of force) yet weighs less than 10 ounces (+ or - an ounce). The cage is made to sit as low as possible on YOUR chassis (without interferring with routine maint) so it affects on the CG is very minimal (non existant IMO).
The 8 point cage is $150 plus shipping (both ways) so figure on $225 (w/shipping) for a custom cage made specifically for your chassis. It includes a professionally applied 4 step automotive paint job (nearly any color-you supply sample) so it can be touched up at any competent body shop when the time arrises. Allow 4 weeks for return delivery.

Visit to see a sample cage,
contact me at [email protected] if you have
any questions.