nosyajg
Well-Known Member
i wanted to run this trans just cause it sits lower then the stock one...i was gonna clock the stock trans, but i'd have to cut and reinforce the stock chassis, or just run a different chassis all together...got a deal on it on rctech...
here's pics of how i mounted the trans in the wk...
walmart cutting board for a side plate and mounted the trans to that...used the points on the chassis to screw to the plastic plate...stampede 5mm yokes to the trans output shafts, then to stampede shafts (i had to use and exacto and whittle away some of the material on the narrow groove to make it wider, then to the hpi shafts (max shafts work too, but just have to whittle away a little bit more material) which connect to the hpi yokes and then axle...
i wanted to lay the trans on it's side, but would been too wide and more work to get it to function that way...the dig unit on it is locked, but i just may hook up a servo in the (near) future to take advantage of it...for those of you who strip the mounting points of the dig unit, you can re-tap the metal plate of the trans with 6-32 tap, and just use nylon spacer to space it like the stock metal units...i coulda made some of of aluminum rod too, but was too lazy to do it...the thick nylon tube seems as if it will hold just fine...
works GREAT like this...lower center of gravity helps it get over the steeper stuff easier...and the trans is STRONG...before my motor (55t lathe) would just stall on the hard stuff...now it just pops the drive shaft yoke...hence the gorilla tape covering it, but even that isnt enough sometimes...it's ok though, i just look at it as a slipper clutch...lol...
after some small testing, i found that the chassis plates flex at the bottom since there's no brace between the two plates now...and the stock plastic hex rod holding the lower links in place isnt strong enough to keep them together...probably could get some long screws and thread it into the lower links and chassis plates with some aluminum tubing running through, or fab a metal plate that will mount to the other screws on the trans and to the side plate...or both...will work on it soon...
here's pics of how i mounted the trans in the wk...
walmart cutting board for a side plate and mounted the trans to that...used the points on the chassis to screw to the plastic plate...stampede 5mm yokes to the trans output shafts, then to stampede shafts (i had to use and exacto and whittle away some of the material on the narrow groove to make it wider, then to the hpi shafts (max shafts work too, but just have to whittle away a little bit more material) which connect to the hpi yokes and then axle...
i wanted to lay the trans on it's side, but would been too wide and more work to get it to function that way...the dig unit on it is locked, but i just may hook up a servo in the (near) future to take advantage of it...for those of you who strip the mounting points of the dig unit, you can re-tap the metal plate of the trans with 6-32 tap, and just use nylon spacer to space it like the stock metal units...i coulda made some of of aluminum rod too, but was too lazy to do it...the thick nylon tube seems as if it will hold just fine...
works GREAT like this...lower center of gravity helps it get over the steeper stuff easier...and the trans is STRONG...before my motor (55t lathe) would just stall on the hard stuff...now it just pops the drive shaft yoke...hence the gorilla tape covering it, but even that isnt enough sometimes...it's ok though, i just look at it as a slipper clutch...lol...
after some small testing, i found that the chassis plates flex at the bottom since there's no brace between the two plates now...and the stock plastic hex rod holding the lower links in place isnt strong enough to keep them together...probably could get some long screws and thread it into the lower links and chassis plates with some aluminum tubing running through, or fab a metal plate that will mount to the other screws on the trans and to the side plate...or both...will work on it soon...
