Razdawg's Ground Pounder Thread
- Thread starter Razdawg
- Start date
im2tall
Well-Known Member
If you do decide on the Zero's,you're gonna have to use the Oring method to mount the top ball,because it's metal to metal! An Oring over the shock ball and a flat washer on the opposite side! If you want/need I'll give you a close up of what I'm talking about!! I saw a crap load of guys on videos and forums doing all kinda of hack jobs that made me cringe!LOL
im2tall
Well-Known Member
I'm trying everything Copy and paste doesn't work on this site,plus photobucket doesnt have image info,and there's no way to check settings!! *** !!Bear with me!
And Thumbnails suck,I tried 4 times 3 different photos and 1 gets through?I have to clear my head a come back!! I got you one way or another even if I have to send it Email!
And Thumbnails suck,I tried 4 times 3 different photos and 1 gets through?I have to clear my head a come back!! I got you one way or another even if I have to send it Email!
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im2tall
Well-Known Member
Worked it out!!
I hope his is clear enough!I slid an O-ring over the shock ball,then put on the shock,then I placed a washer to give the shock ball a flat surface to lay on,because I use spacers that are too slim!So 1 side Oring,the other side a flat surface.Hope this helped!!I was struggling over here! Good looking out TXT!!LOL
I hope his is clear enough!I slid an O-ring over the shock ball,then put on the shock,then I placed a washer to give the shock ball a flat surface to lay on,because I use spacers that are too slim!So 1 side Oring,the other side a flat surface.Hope this helped!!I was struggling over here! Good looking out TXT!!LOL
HawnMT
Well-Known Member
It allows the shock shaft to travel entirely into the shock body because there's no air bladder or other system to have to compensate for the area the shock shaft takes up when it is inside the shock body. That means you can get more travel out of a certain length shock. Like with the Gmade shocks, all that extra adjustment stuff is in the reservoir instead of the main shock body. With the Integy shocks the air foam(instead of the bladder) is on the reservoir.
Also the reservoir allows more the shock to hold more fluid which helps dissipate heat but that's really more a real life benefit than an rc one.
Razdawg
Well-Known Member
For Bashing purposes they would be overkill right?
Also would these work for the GP, if so I would need a 14 hex adapter?
This is a set of four 3.2" Monster truck Tires & Wheels with 14mm Hex for vehicles such as the E-Maxx , Revo , Savage and Tamiya Clod Buster. These are mounted/not glued and do not have internal foams inserts for more grip on rock crawlers/super crawlers.
These are lightly used and in very good condition with minor wear as pictured. Wheels have a dark purple tint to them.
• Overall height: 165mm
• Width: 95mm
• 3.2 wheel/14mm hex mount
Also would these work for the GP, if so I would need a 14 hex adapter?
This is a set of four 3.2" Monster truck Tires & Wheels with 14mm Hex for vehicles such as the E-Maxx , Revo , Savage and Tamiya Clod Buster. These are mounted/not glued and do not have internal foams inserts for more grip on rock crawlers/super crawlers.
These are lightly used and in very good condition with minor wear as pictured. Wheels have a dark purple tint to them.
• Overall height: 165mm
• Width: 95mm
• 3.2 wheel/14mm hex mount
Last edited:
Razdawg
Well-Known Member
The body is a Parma '78 El Camino (wanted something different).
Going to have to get some longer body mounts and trim the rear wheel well a little but it should work.
I never thought about wheels on that bar but it makes sense, do you have an example Sixtys? Something like this ->http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_2299/products_id/229576/n/Traxxas-Wheelie-Bar-Wheel-Axle-Set?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&gclid=CL3u9MGRr7wCFe1aMgodhAoAKQ
Im2tall - How do you like the Gmade Zero shocks? I am trying to decide if I want to up grade from my MT2 ones (stock not the aluminum ones).
I can't decide if the Zero's, Piggyback, or Diaphragm ones from Junfac/Gmade would be best for backyard bashing.
Then the next and probably final step for awhile is to figure out a nice Budget set or wheels/tires....not sure about what to consider at all.
Going to have to get some longer body mounts and trim the rear wheel well a little but it should work.
I never thought about wheels on that bar but it makes sense, do you have an example Sixtys? Something like this ->http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_2299/products_id/229576/n/Traxxas-Wheelie-Bar-Wheel-Axle-Set?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&gclid=CL3u9MGRr7wCFe1aMgodhAoAKQ
Im2tall - How do you like the Gmade Zero shocks? I am trying to decide if I want to up grade from my MT2 ones (stock not the aluminum ones).
I can't decide if the Zero's, Piggyback, or Diaphragm ones from Junfac/Gmade would be best for backyard bashing.
Then the next and probably final step for awhile is to figure out a nice Budget set or wheels/tires....not sure about what to consider at all.
I used these; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/3_1577_759_796/products_id/19368/n/Du-Bro-1-1-4-Tailwheel
I just had to drill out the the centre hole to suit. Below is an average pic of mine. You can just use longer 6-32 screws ad thread lock to secure them. I only removed the top bar as I didn't have 6-32 screws readily available. It works a lot better with the wheels on them.
