Razdawg's Ground Pounder Thread

Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Been a while since the last time I posted but luckly I have some free time again. Darn Job ;-)
Anyway I was looking to do some upgrading to the GP and had some questions.
1) I know the benefits of the Hesse axle braces but I see there is a version 2?

2) what are the benefits of the Hesse Trans brace and brace with Motor mount?

3) does anyone have a suggestion for a good replacement body?

4) can the original trans (with metal upgrade shaft) be a servicable bashing trans?

Well that's enough for now.

Thanks!
 
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SixtysGuy

Well-Known Member
I've had mine for a week or so but did heaps of research.......!

1. From what I can see Version 2 have different shock/link mounting. There is a youtube vid where a guy says that his shocks and or links don't mount up properly to the brace. V2 seems to have fixed that issue.

2. The brace on it's own is designed for the first version of the GP. Later ones already have a 2nd brace. The brace with motor mount replaces one of the stock braces and mounts the motor off it. On the GP the motor is mounted off the radio tray and there can be movement between this and the chassis that the transmission is mounted to. If the movement i great enough the pinion will move away from the spur and strip it. From what I have read this isn't so much an issue with the latest GP unless a high powered motor is fitted.

3. I don't know of any specific bodies. The body looks too skinny for the chassis IMO though.

4. Don't know on this one.

I'd highly recomend the axle brace. I broke the front axle on the second battery run. Outlaw have been hard to contact and I am yet to actually order one. I'm actually thinking of making my own.
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
SixtysGuy said:
I've had mine for a week or so but did heaps of research.......!

1. From what I can see Version 2 have different shock/link mounting. There is a youtube vid where a guy says that his shocks and or links don't mount up properly to the brace. V2 seems to have fixed that issue.

2. The brace on it's own is designed for the first version of the GP. Later ones already have a 2nd brace. The brace with motor mount replaces one of the stock braces and mounts the motor off it. On the GP the motor is mounted off the radio tray and there can be movement between this and the chassis that the transmission is mounted to. If the movement i great enough the pinion will move away from the spur and strip it. From what I have read this isn't so much an issue with the latest GP unless a high powered motor is fitted.

3. I don't know of any specific bodies. The body looks too skinny for the chassis IMO though.

4. Don't know on this one.

I'd highly recomend the axle brace. I broke the front axle on the second battery run. Outlaw have been hard to contact and I am yet to actually order one. I'm actually thinking of making my own.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Sixtys.

I really like the looks of all the Hesse stuff and I don't want to be that guy that complains about the cost (I am certain they are totally worth the investment).

Luckily I have the Gun metal GP which I think addressed some of the originals flaws. Have only broken the screw that keeps the shock and link attached to the axle.

Would it be silly to just get the brace w/ motor mount and leave the other one plastic?
 
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SixtysGuy

Well-Known Member
The first version only had one brace, so I think the Hesse upgrade with two braces is really designed for the early version. I have the gunmetal version as well. I'm going to hold off on the motor mount as I'm only planning on running the stock motor.

I did find another manufacturer of axle braces, but I can't seem to fidn their website again. I think I am just going to make my own now.
 
HawnMT

HawnMT

Well-Known Member
Razdawg said:
Would it be silly to just get the brace w/ motor mount and leave the other one plastic?
Click to expand...
Not really, in fact you can probably do without the 2nd plastic brace altogether. The motor mount ties the motor and trans into one unit and since the 2nd brace was added only to keep the trans from flexing away from the motor/pinion it's not necessary with the Hesse motor mount.

SixtysGuy said:
The first version only had one brace, so I think the Hesse upgrade with two braces is really designed for the early version.
Click to expand...
Actually the early version can't run two braces, the chassis had larger cutouts in that area so there's no material to mount the 2nd brace.
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Well it looks like I can save a bit of dough with not needing the 2nd brace. Information is a powerful thing... thanks Hawn.

Sixty - I have read nothing but glowing reviews of the Hesse brace but its a hard buy for me right now financially. Someday (dreamy eyes).

A nice budget alternative would be great for us penny ******rs...or at least help us through until the money is saved.
 
M

moparkid88

Well-Known Member
I ordered a brace with the mount almost a week ago off eBay and it still hasn't shipped yet. Kinda sucks bc it's going to hold me up from building my truck if I don't get it in the next week
 
mhesse

mhesse

Makin' parts
Mopar
Ill get ahold of outlaw and see what is happening.


Mike Hesse
Hesse Machine

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
F

fatboy

Well-Known Member
If you are looking to get buy till you have cash to buy the motor tranny combo, You can always swap out stock spur and convert to 32p which I would do any way no matter what motor mount you use. Anyway go 32p stock motor take a zip tie and run it around the back part of the motor and thru the battery/electronics tray. that will help with the flexing that causes the spur to strip.

Axle braces yeah they are needed and there is a few to choose from out there. There are a few guys on here that have made there own. so iam sure you could make something to get you buy till the money was there to get what you want.

The trans I have never had a issue with it failing. Infact I would use it in more of my trucks if there was a better way to mount the motor. I like it because its a 2 dear setup. But most of my trucks will be running the axil trans just cause I like how the motor mounts and it really lowers the CG
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Well still looking to pour some more $$$ into this thing but I am not sure what direction to go.

I already have the metal transmission shafts, Mod 1 pinion and Spur, and MT2 shocks.

Got Brushless and lipo power too.

Without any racing around here I don't need this to be a speed demon like some of you, just a nice basher.

Unfortunately I do not have the tools or ability to fabricate things like most of you on here so most if not all of my upgrade need to be able to be purchased.

What are the options for axle braces? (Hesse, Freestyle RC)? I don't doubt that both these products are WELL worth the $$ but is there a more budget minded option until these could be saved for?

Bodies: I think most 1/10 scale bodies should fit? I am looking at some of Parma's vintage cars (Nomad, 57 Chevy).

Wheels: Is the reasoning behind Clod wheels mainly for looks or do they increase performance / durability?

Anyway just rambling.......:emot103:
 
V

vwjuice

Well-Known Member
Clod wheels are simply for looks. They actually add more stress to the axles making them less durable.

Sounds like you've got a pretty good start going so far. I'd get some hardened ring and pinion gears as well.
 
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vwjuice

Well-Known Member
Oh btw, I don't have any of the Hesse stuff on my GP yet and I have not had any problems. I do plan on getting the axle braces and aluminum knuckles after Christmas along with cpe's fault line chassis or fatboy's ckp chassis.

The stock trans should work just fine. There's one issue I found with it which I believe is the reason people have had so many problems with the trans internal gears and the pinion shearing off the spur gear.

The trans only has 1 shim in it. But it needs several more. I had some extra shims laying around and I added some to each shaft inside the trans until there was about 1-2mm back and forth movement. Before there was a good 1/8"movement on the smaller shaft. There was enough that you could move the slipper around to where it would make little contact with the pinion on the motor. Now that its shimmed properly its smooth as butter and everything meshes perfect.
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Well, here we go again.......after a visit to the local track, I've decided to delay the start to my "racing" career. Don't get me wrong the track is great and so were the people, just don't know if I'm mentally ready to step up from the backyard....well that and my work schedule doesn't cooperate.

Anyway back on topic:

Received and installed the Hesse motor mount then promptly broke an axle housing (totally my fault / driving). I had the pleasure of dealing with Fatboy and have a set of the Freestyle braces on there way! Almost pulled the trigger on the CKP but that will have to wait for another paycheck.

Any suggestions on tires/wheels that are an upgrade from stock GP but more affordable than the whole Clodbuster setup? These would be for bashing only.
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Also was wondering what the drive shaft lengths were. After reading KingClods thread I kind of want some Junfac shafts but want to make sure on the lengths.
How do people feel about the gmade shocks and what style would be good / best for the GP? They sure look sweet and are not too pricey.
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Ok after some research I think these are the sizes I need for the Junfac shafts: 107-142mm and 95-130mm.

Now just to find out more about those gmade shocks.
 
im2tall

im2tall

Well-Known Member
The GMade shocks go together smoothly, I haven't had a chance to run them yet, the weather isn't very RC friendly,but they do seem solid, wish I could give you more feedback!
 
Razdawg

Razdawg

Well-Known Member
Thanks im2Tall, what style (size) did you get?

ZERO TYPE

Or

AERATION TYPE

Or

DIAPHRAGM TYPE

Or

PIGGYBACK TYPE

Personally I think the last two are best for Monster usage?
 
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