Race chassis?

JKRacing37

Well-Known Member
I understand what you mean by the clod chassis but the difference is that a clod has the motors on the axles and a WK doesn't so everything kind of centers around the transmission and motor. Maybe that's what some aren't seeing I'm not sure.
Actually if you look at the handful of TXT race chassis that have been made they are laid out very similar to the Clod race chassis. This one was just posted in the reader's rides section:

Defiance Racing TXT

Note battery location.

I understand where you are coming from, I'm just trying to explain to you why some people would say that what you are thinking about isn't a true "race" chassis. Not trying to bash or anything - I'm actually very interested in what you come up with.
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
the TXT has the axle input up high allowing the transmission to be inverted without a severe drive shaft angle. Then the link mounts are spaced farther apart with the upper links way up on top allowing room for a battery inbetween. That's not possible with the combination of stock WK axles and transmission. With WK parts you are not getting the battery as low because of
A Motor
B Suspension link rods
C Driveshafts

Everything on the WK is much closer together, tighter. It looks more scale but not battery location friendly. :-( Now if you want to run a saddle pack, now your talking a greater ability to squeeze things in really really low.

New wording I guess should be ''Replicated Race Chassis with best possible scale/handling configuration''.

What we could really use is a transmission that uses a tight low motor center output configuration without a crawler gear ratio.

It's that gear ratio that prevents me from using a axial trans. If we can't get the metal ckrc gears I guess I'll be forced to rethink that.
 

HawnMT

Well-Known Member
With 2s lipo the weight savings by dropping the battery below the trans is marginal but its there. Most racers also wont be running a 4000-5000mah pack for a race, they will run a 1000mah and they weigh next to nothing. However, if I ever get around to redoing mine I will put a lower mount. Currently I run my battery crossways above the motor (axial trans) and it works great.
IMO I think this is getting a little dangerous. Running a 1000mah lipo in a crawler is fine but running that in a race truck is not advisable. Even a 40C pack means your only getting 40 amps and that's if the rating is accurate. And the low mah means on a long race day you'll be pushing close to cut off a lot or you'll be changing packs/topping off all the time. I know NiMHs put out about that much amps but they can take being overdrawn better, lipos can't. I'm not questioning that you can't get away with it for a while but in the long run that's not a safe way to race especially for beginners which is what I imagine WK type classes will mainly attract for now.

Also it should be said that a little bit of chassis weight isn't always a bad thing especially if your going to direct mount the shocks(no link mounting or cantilevers). The added sprung weight helps the suspension work smoother and with the type of racing solid axle monster trucks do, all out speed isn't always the most important thing, handling is.
 

DeathWish

Well-Known Member
I've looked at TXT race setups before and I thought about going that route but the trans on a wheely king won't allow us to do so. I was thinking that if we made the lower links shorter and in turn it would move the shaft placement on the pumpkin up, it MIGHT help but I won't know until I try it. Another thing that I thought about is what if we made the yokes on the transmission longer, would that kind of help at all?

That's what I was looking at is having the shocks mounted to the axles. That was the reasoning behind a semi-rep chassis.
 

JKRacing37

Well-Known Member
Everything on the WK is much closer together, tighter. It looks more scale but not battery location friendly. :-( Now if you want to run a saddle pack, now your talking a greater ability to squeeze things in really really low.
While I agree a tranny flip can't be done with a WK, running a Terminator style chassis wouldn't be much of a challenge. By simply mounting the battery under the transmission (across the chassis rather than inline with it) and putting your lower link mounts in front and behind the battery mounting location you would have a nice low slung chassis with the majority of the weight really low. Of course this would strictly be a race type of chassis and I wouldn't want to bash with my battery low and exposed like that, but on a carpet track for our indoor series I think it would work. This of course would require a longer 4 link set up (crawler length, at least) and Clod tires would be a plus to ensure flexibility of ride height. Run link mounted shocks and I think you'd have a nice racer, IMO.

If we can't get the metal ckrc gears I guess I'll be forced to rethink that.
'

Yeah...what's up with that? I've been waiting on CKRC to restock the WK gears for a month now.
 

DeathWish

Well-Known Member
Putting the battery low in the cradle was a real thought and putting 4 link mounts right by it or under it. Once I get a prototype out and tested it, I'm sure I'll have more questions for ya guys.
 

DeathWish

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about drawing up a somewhat scale-ish looking Maximum Destruction chassis based on the new style Tom Meents runs. If I'm able to do it right, I'm going to have the battery location up front where the motor would be placed. I'm going to try and shoot for a prototype of this chassis within a few weeks and possibly take it with me to the Indianapolis Monster Jam.
 

DeathWish

Well-Known Member
Been a little busy as of late and the storm system that hit the mid west hasn't helped out any at all. One thing I was wondering was what kind of screws do people usually use and like? Cross style(Philips) or Hex? I'm just wanting to see what people use so if I can get this into a production type state, I could include these with orders.
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
Been a little busy as of late and the storm system that hit the mid west hasn't helped out any at all. One thing I was wondering was what kind of screws do people usually use and like? Cross style(Philips) or Hex? I'm just wanting to see what people use so if I can get this into a production type state, I could include these with orders.
I like 3mm threaded socket head cap screws.
Stay clear of cross-phillips for anything unless you want to hear complaints of loosening or stripping. To hard to get tight, or they always strip or look hacked up after a few times on-off.
 

JKRacing37

Well-Known Member
I like 3mm threaded socket head cap screws.
Stay clear of cross-phillips for anything unless you want to hear complaints of loosening or stripping. To hard to get tight, or they always strip or look hacked up after a few times on-off.
Bingo - Bill nailed it.
 

joe

ɹoʇɐɹʇsıuıɯpɐ
Site Administrator
Super Moderator
Moderator
Idk... the first two are crawlers, and the third is stock style.
I'd like to see a real race chassis.
 

william g

Retired
Moderator

northerngames

Well-Known Member
I am going to run the purple integy one with some long adjustable punisher shafts from rc4wd and just my own custom links but the time being I am using the T-maxx shaft's and the revo toe-in links as there a tad longer then the maxx one's.

down the road perhaps split the battery pack in two so there is weight on the front and rear.
 

Supreme Reign

Well-Known Member
Piqued my interest.....
Don't hold your breath. The WK chassis has been posted on CPE's site for months and months. It's disappointing, because I had extra cash at the time hoping to buy a few of them. Well, there's always Christmas, I guess.
 

Mo'

400 Lux
Im working on a pretty sweet design that should be ready for the NRCTPA worlds in Oct. I started it a few years ago and never finished it.. The time is now though!



I dont have any pics yet since its still in the super secret mockup stages. But rest assured, if it works like I hope it will Ill have plenty of pics in a few weeks!
 
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