I was wondering if anyone would be interested in an aluminum race chassis for our Wheely Kings? A friend of mine is able to equipment that would be helpful in producing some chassis if people are interested in some. I was thinking about doing some based on real 1:1 scale chassis' out there like Patrick, RaceSource, CDR. Input is very welcome on this topic. I'm in the stage of drawing up some chassis and hope to keep information updated once I learn more about it.
JKRacing37
Well-Known Member
I would be interested in a true race type of chassis...something that gets the battery lower, lowers COG, centralizes mass, and stiffens everything up. Are you looking at making something like that or something more scale?
I'd be looking at keeping to somewhat to scale BUT maybe going a little bigger than the stock chassis that comes with the Wheely King. The thought that I'm having in my head is having the battery sit darn near right over the motor and the electronics around the battery of some sort.
Yeah, it'd be kind of like that but more of a replica based chassis that you see out there now that most trucks run like a Patrick, RaceSource or the new CRD that Feld has now for most of their trucks. This is just a thought process right now and I'm looking for a lot of feedback on this as to what people think and if there's a opening for it. Wouldn't want to put a lot of effort into and no one like or want one.
W
William
Guest
I'm in for a nice chassis. What is key to making people happy (IMHO) is
Cab section
Wider then a stock WK chassis setup.
Adjustable shock mount locations so we can set ride heights.
Long enough front-rear that it looks right, too stubby and it's blah.
Easy battery access location.
Cab section is for asthetics, just looks right.
By making it a bit wider your shocks are spread out and it limits torque twist some.
Shocks adjustability is needed so you don't have to only use 117mm and can use 90 or 100mm. 117mm aluminum are not cheap, 42.00 a pair. :ack
Length of chassis so it's realistic and seen above both axles with a 12-13'' wheelbase, fills the body better.
People like to be able to swap out batteries not have them permanently fixed. Large enough for lipo case or nimh. Reusing the WK battery box might be a good idea.
Cab section
Wider then a stock WK chassis setup.
Adjustable shock mount locations so we can set ride heights.
Long enough front-rear that it looks right, too stubby and it's blah.
Easy battery access location.
Cab section is for asthetics, just looks right.
By making it a bit wider your shocks are spread out and it limits torque twist some.
Shocks adjustability is needed so you don't have to only use 117mm and can use 90 or 100mm. 117mm aluminum are not cheap, 42.00 a pair. :ack
Length of chassis so it's realistic and seen above both axles with a 12-13'' wheelbase, fills the body better.
People like to be able to swap out batteries not have them permanently fixed. Large enough for lipo case or nimh. Reusing the WK battery box might be a good idea.
Cab section - I can see what I can with the aluminum and possibly come up with something that might work.
Wider then a stock WK chassis setup - That isn't a problem, I'm sure i can do something like that.
Adjustable shock mount locations so we can set ride heights - Glad you said something, I forgot about that. The way I'm thinking is having a few different shock mount holes going up and down where the real shock would go on the real monster truck. Sounds like a good idea in my head, not sure if others would like it.
Long enough front-rear that it looks right, too stubby and it's blah - Like I said, I'm going to try and keep this to scale based on the real 1:1 chassis. The only thing that I'm debating on is keeping it 12th scale as per the Wheely King or making it 10th scale. I'd rather keep it 12th but what do you guys think?
Easy battery access location - Reusing the battery box sounds like a plauseable idea, keeping it held down is another.
Thank you William for all the good ideas and suggestions. If you have anymore, please say so. As for everyone reading this, please speak up.
Wider then a stock WK chassis setup - That isn't a problem, I'm sure i can do something like that.
Adjustable shock mount locations so we can set ride heights - Glad you said something, I forgot about that. The way I'm thinking is having a few different shock mount holes going up and down where the real shock would go on the real monster truck. Sounds like a good idea in my head, not sure if others would like it.
Long enough front-rear that it looks right, too stubby and it's blah - Like I said, I'm going to try and keep this to scale based on the real 1:1 chassis. The only thing that I'm debating on is keeping it 12th scale as per the Wheely King or making it 10th scale. I'd rather keep it 12th but what do you guys think?
Easy battery access location - Reusing the battery box sounds like a plauseable idea, keeping it held down is another.
Thank you William for all the good ideas and suggestions. If you have anymore, please say so. As for everyone reading this, please speak up.
What material do you plan on using? If it's to be milled from a flat sheet you can just incorprate in the design like the GP is.
1/10th we can pick more bodies out and WK axles are more 1/10th in width than they are 1/12. More guys run the truck ''modified'' in 1/10th than 1/12th as I don't know may 1/12th race rules. :wnk
The battery box can be mounted via the stock 4 side holes, or drilled on either top or bottom section and mounted to a flat plate or tab surface.
1/10th we can pick more bodies out and WK axles are more 1/10th in width than they are 1/12. More guys run the truck ''modified'' in 1/10th than 1/12th as I don't know may 1/12th race rules. :wnk
The battery box can be mounted via the stock 4 side holes, or drilled on either top or bottom section and mounted to a flat plate or tab surface.
I plan on using .125 aluminum for the side plates. I'm sure I can make the chassis 1/10th then. I have no problem with doing that. When you said cab area, I thought full blown cab and not like the gp one. I can do that style with no problem at all. I'm still working out a deal with my friends about doing this. What do you guys like for mounting the bodies, the side or top?
moparkid88
Well-Known Member
id go with 10th scale and what are you going to do about steering servo location? on the axle or sorta like the stock wheely king setup?
moparkid88
Well-Known Member
just a thought.. if its going to be aracing chassis then id assume that on the axle is alot better..? maybe have some holes in it for sway bar mounts?
HawnMT
Well-Known Member
In all honesty it sounds like guys are asking for a basher chassis not a race chassis. If you truely want to build a race chassis you really have to get the battery off the top and have it mounted low. I know it'll kinda blows the scale look but if you want maximum performance it's really the only way to go.
For anyone that has run a TXT with the race configuration(inverted trans, low battery) knows, it's a night and day difference having the a low CG over the stock configuration. Torque twist is nearly non exsistent because it doesn't have all that weight swinging around up top and turning performance is near that of Clods.
As far as the cab thing I've kinda gotten over that with the GP. It was interesting in the beginning but the reality is you can't really see it and it only adds more edges to beat up on the body.
For anyone that has run a TXT with the race configuration(inverted trans, low battery) knows, it's a night and day difference having the a low CG over the stock configuration. Torque twist is nearly non exsistent because it doesn't have all that weight swinging around up top and turning performance is near that of Clods.
As far as the cab thing I've kinda gotten over that with the GP. It was interesting in the beginning but the reality is you can't really see it and it only adds more edges to beat up on the body.
JKRacing37
Well-Known Member
I agree with Kent - if it's truely a "race" chassis then get everything low and centralized. I was playing with some drawings of a WK race chassis that I was thinking of trying to make with the battery mounted under the transmission. Get everything as low and centralized as possible. Also, nix the cab idea just for the weight savings and lowering COG.
moparkid88
Well-Known Member
so what if you invert the wk tranny and throw the battey under it? thatll throw the motor down low obviously and it'll be like the txt setup..
I had asked that question about inverting the WK Trans and someone said that it wouldn't work out right or something but I've seen TXT's with the trans inverted. I believe the trans on a TXT has the center drive line off center which helps with binding problems. I'm not sure the center drive shafts would clear the motor. I can see about putting the battery under the trans and still have it upright in the stock position.
HawnMT
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I don't thnk the inverted trans would work well on the WK, driveshaft angles would be steep. It might work if you ran the cradle really low(which is how the newest 1:1 chassis' are) and limited droop. But I think having the motor upright is probably best. The stacked configuration, with the trans on top of the battery, is the simpliest answer and will be much easier to setup than the inerted trans/battery infront configuration on TXT racers.
BTW, if you really want it more universal, I think designing in some mounting points for an Axial trans plate would also allow guys to setup the chassis with Axial axles. I'm actually building a 2.2 Axial race truck with WK tires.
BTW, if you really want it more universal, I think designing in some mounting points for an Axial trans plate would also allow guys to setup the chassis with Axial axles. I'm actually building a 2.2 Axial race truck with WK tires.
Making it universal would be great, if I had a Axial trans for mock up but I don't have one. I'll work on the Wheely King first since it's what I have and currently can use but I wouldn't turn down the chance to make something for people that want to run an Axial trans.