Proline Protrac kit installed

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lcherry81

Member
Ive been doing research on the Protrac kit for a while now. I ended up getting the fronts only. It was well worth it. I have pics of it during the process. It handles way better and looks 100% better.



stock vs protrac (tie rods are revo spec, are too short) I had a little issue with the steering links. I ended up buying new tie rods at pepboys yesterday. Found out they are too short. Lucky for me I had a set of turnbuckles/tie rods from my savage x. Funny thing is that they are correct length for the steering when using the protrac kit. I ended up using the protrac links and savage links and it works no problem.



stock vs protrac



had to shave the stock body mount





front camber links. stock vs protrac



finished product. I'm still running the hpi 5 spokes wheels which are the factory offset, either way it still looks better. Next on the list is a set of Proline wheels/tires and a wheelie bar










me and my friend Redcat truck today

 
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Joeman37

Well-Known Member
Does this make the front and rear track width the same? Does the new front shock tower just add more options for mounting the shocks or is it needed to widen the track?

Thanks for posting,

-Joe
 
kevinatfms

kevinatfms

Well-Known Member
Joeman37 said:
Does this make the front and rear track width the same? Does the new front shock tower just add more options for mounting the shocks or is it needed to widen the track?

Thanks for posting,

-Joe
Click to expand...
Makes the front and rear the same width. The tower isnt needed except for more mounting positions. Another option is the RPM offset compensating front arms.
 
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Joeman37

Well-Known Member
kevinatfms said:
Makes the front and rear the same width. The tower isnt needed except for more mounting positions. Another option is the RPM offset compensating front arms.
Click to expand...
OK Thanks, I will have to do a search for the RPM arms and see which makes more sense. Thanks for the reply.

-Joe
 
kevinatfms

kevinatfms

Well-Known Member
Joeman37 said:
OK Thanks, I will have to do a search for the RPM arms and see which makes more sense. Thanks for the reply.

-Joe
Click to expand...
No problem. Its been years waiting for things like these arms/kits. Traxxas should have come out with some solution 10 years ago but for some reason they didnt. Either way, the protrac or the RPM arms is the way to go on the Stampede now.
 
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bart maimone

Well-Known Member
Would you happen to remember the part numbers offhand for everything ?
I've been meaning to do that as well for a while .... If I'm not mistaken if you do the rear that makes it a different offset is that correct ?
 
theblazer24

theblazer24

Well-Known Member
I did this with some Onfa a arms, i made some steering links out of threaded rod and used the stock steering links as cambar links, works great.
 
L

lcherry81

Member
bart maimone said:
Would you happen to remember the part numbers offhand for everything ?
I've been meaning to do that as well for a while .... If I'm not mistaken if you do the rear that makes it a different offset is that correct ?
Click to expand...
Front Arms 6062-01 (2 pcs)
?Rear Arms 6062-02 (2 pcs) DONT NEED*
?Front Shock Tower 6062-03 (1 pc)
?Rear Shock Tower with hardware 6062-04 (1 pc) DONT NEED*
?Rear Hub Carriers 6062-05 (2 pcs) DONT NEED*
?50mm x 4 Camber Links 6062-06 (4 pcs)
?70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)


You will need E-revo endlinks or ball ends for the steering & camber links. I don't think If you did the rear then it would change anything. The front is the problem.
 
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lcherry81

Member
Heres a photo of the protract kit and trenchers 2.8. Both wheels I used are for front. So you would buy two sets of front wheels.

 
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Joeman37

Well-Known Member
lcherry81 said:
Front Arms 6062-01 (2 pcs)
?Rear Arms 6062-02 (2 pcs) DONT NEED*
?Front Shock Tower 6062-03 (1 pc)
?Rear Shock Tower with hardware 6062-04 (1 pc) DONT NEED*
?Rear Hub Carriers 6062-05 (2 pcs) DONT NEED*
?50mm x 4 Camber Links 6062-06 (4 pcs)
?70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)


You will need E-revo endlinks or ball ends for the steering & camber links. I don't think If you did the rear then it would change anything. The front is the problem.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thank you for posting the part numbers, that makes it super easy!

-Joe
 
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Joeman37

Well-Known Member
Uggghhh...just ordered enough to do two trucks (mine and my son's) as well as spares for a third truck (or as spares for the first two). It was a little pricey but should be cool for something I am going to try. Thanks again for the part numbers but my pocket book hates you right now!

-Joe
 
L

lcherry81

Member
Joeman37 said:
Uggghhh...just ordered enough to do two trucks (mine and my son's) as well as spares for a third truck (or as spares for the first two). It was a little pricey but should be cool for something I am going to try. Thanks again for the part numbers but my pocket book hates you right now!

-Joe
Click to expand...
haha, my pockets hated me also at the time. I gotta say with the proline trenchers the truck performs so much differently. Even on turns it doesn't tip over mainly due to the protract kit but also the stance of the wheels (offset)
 
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Joeman37

Well-Known Member
OK, I got the parts to convert over a while ago but just sat down today to swap over one of my MJ trucks. I am finding I have to do a lot of sanding on everything because the parts are all so tight. The front arms where they attach to the bulkhead and the caster blocks are super tight. Am I doing something wrong or is that common? The stock parts had shims to take out the slop and these are super tight.

thanks,

-Joe
 
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