Rib Tickler
Member
I'm a C5 Tetraplegic. Meaning i am paralysed from the neck down with some arm movement. See http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/tetrakart/tamiya_wild_dagger.html
I use screwdrivers in me teeth and wrestle the pieces of car around the desk with the little arm and wrist function i have. Pick the screws or any metal up with magnetic screwdriver. Need the odd bit of help. Sawing and dremiling done in a vice on desk. Takes hours to do even the slightist thing. So please bear this in mind when you see my "C5" Wild Dagger
MODS SO FAR:
1. Metal bearing all round
2. 20T PINION GEAR
3. 4 X SP808 Tamiya TG10 Long Wheel Axle #50808
4. Ofna Rear Dogbones ( used all round ) #OFN17145
5. Schumacher 14mm screw on hex ( NEED TO DREMIL THE PIN SLOT TO 2MM ) #U2682
6. Multi Wheel Widener Adapter for TXT-1 Clod Maxx Savage ( needed to dremil inside edge to fit the Schumacher 14mm hex )
7. HPI Savage X M4x70mm Turnbuckles #93535 ( had to cut down to 64mm ish to fit )
8. KYOSHO 6.8MM Ball Ends (OFFSET TYPE) #IS053
9. Losi Steering Ball Set 6.8mm: 8B,8T #LOSA6050 (used screw on ones on servo saver )
10. KYOSHO 6.8MM BALL PIVOT MT114 ( on steering knuckles )
11. OFNA Heavy Duty Servo Saver w/CNC Top #10762
12. MG995 Tower Pro Servo
13. Shock towers from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
14. Aluminium right angle bolted to chassis for extra shocks
15. 8 x Aluminium BIG BORE Shock Damper for T-Maxx 3.3 2.5 E-Maxx
16. 2 X HPI GT 550 14.4V MOTOR #1145
17. HPI GT Speed Controller 14.4V Dual Battery #309
18. Kitchen chop board to hold second battery in
19. 2 x 7.2v 4400 NIMH Batteries.
20. HPI SAVAGE XL FRONT AND REAR BUMPER + F/R/ SKIDPLATES
21. Made my own centre skid plate out of gavalanized metal with foam inset between chassis.
22. Made my own crude skids over arms out of a plastic bistuit tin.
23. Custom nylon unbreakable EL8 Rhino Bar Stinger.
24. Used the HPI front bumper lower down at the front for extra protection.
MAYBE FIT
25. Bigger wheels and tyres. What about these? HPI GT5 wheels with GT2 TIRES. They say the GT2 Tires are lightweight
I used a 2 channel stick controller with car gear knobs on top of the sticks on my laptray, but had to look down to see when my hands sliped off them. Hense crashing and knackering car. So I joined a PC joystick to the rc controller. I have several joystick in bits from making one I could hold on to for my PC games, but the potentiometer wouldn't work with the Acoms AP-202 I had. I couldn't find ( didn't know ) which ones to buy online. So bought 3 old transmitters off ebay for ?5. Took them apart and found the potentiometer from an Acoms AP-227 MK2 fitted my Genius MaxFighter F-16U joystick. ( with a couple of washers and superglue and a bit of soldering by my Mum + Dad ) I cut the wires in the Acoms AP-202 between the potentiometer and circuit board. ( 3 wires from each potentiometer ) Then add some 3 pin fan wires from a computer to the ends. Male on the potentiometer, Female to the circuit board. These come out of the transmitter through holes made in it. You can then plug the 2 ends in and use the transmitter as normal. Or unplug then and plug in the Male 3 pin wires from the potentiometer on the joystick to the female wires on the transmitter for PC joystick control. I modded the joystick handle using the original bottom part of the joystick handle. The top half is replaced with 8mm threaded bar and 2 nuts. Pieces on tube steel covered in foam padding, and a piece of wood so I could "hold" onto it better. The wood on top jams against my hand when pulling back.
Hope you like it?
I use screwdrivers in me teeth and wrestle the pieces of car around the desk with the little arm and wrist function i have. Pick the screws or any metal up with magnetic screwdriver. Need the odd bit of help. Sawing and dremiling done in a vice on desk. Takes hours to do even the slightist thing. So please bear this in mind when you see my "C5" Wild Dagger
MODS SO FAR:
1. Metal bearing all round
2. 20T PINION GEAR
3. 4 X SP808 Tamiya TG10 Long Wheel Axle #50808
4. Ofna Rear Dogbones ( used all round ) #OFN17145
5. Schumacher 14mm screw on hex ( NEED TO DREMIL THE PIN SLOT TO 2MM ) #U2682
6. Multi Wheel Widener Adapter for TXT-1 Clod Maxx Savage ( needed to dremil inside edge to fit the Schumacher 14mm hex )
7. HPI Savage X M4x70mm Turnbuckles #93535 ( had to cut down to 64mm ish to fit )
8. KYOSHO 6.8MM Ball Ends (OFFSET TYPE) #IS053
9. Losi Steering Ball Set 6.8mm: 8B,8T #LOSA6050 (used screw on ones on servo saver )
10. KYOSHO 6.8MM BALL PIVOT MT114 ( on steering knuckles )
11. OFNA Heavy Duty Servo Saver w/CNC Top #10762
12. MG995 Tower Pro Servo
13. Shock towers from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
14. Aluminium right angle bolted to chassis for extra shocks
15. 8 x Aluminium BIG BORE Shock Damper for T-Maxx 3.3 2.5 E-Maxx
16. 2 X HPI GT 550 14.4V MOTOR #1145
17. HPI GT Speed Controller 14.4V Dual Battery #309
18. Kitchen chop board to hold second battery in
19. 2 x 7.2v 4400 NIMH Batteries.
20. HPI SAVAGE XL FRONT AND REAR BUMPER + F/R/ SKIDPLATES
21. Made my own centre skid plate out of gavalanized metal with foam inset between chassis.
22. Made my own crude skids over arms out of a plastic bistuit tin.
23. Custom nylon unbreakable EL8 Rhino Bar Stinger.
24. Used the HPI front bumper lower down at the front for extra protection.
MAYBE FIT
25. Bigger wheels and tyres. What about these? HPI GT5 wheels with GT2 TIRES. They say the GT2 Tires are lightweight
I used a 2 channel stick controller with car gear knobs on top of the sticks on my laptray, but had to look down to see when my hands sliped off them. Hense crashing and knackering car. So I joined a PC joystick to the rc controller. I have several joystick in bits from making one I could hold on to for my PC games, but the potentiometer wouldn't work with the Acoms AP-202 I had. I couldn't find ( didn't know ) which ones to buy online. So bought 3 old transmitters off ebay for ?5. Took them apart and found the potentiometer from an Acoms AP-227 MK2 fitted my Genius MaxFighter F-16U joystick. ( with a couple of washers and superglue and a bit of soldering by my Mum + Dad ) I cut the wires in the Acoms AP-202 between the potentiometer and circuit board. ( 3 wires from each potentiometer ) Then add some 3 pin fan wires from a computer to the ends. Male on the potentiometer, Female to the circuit board. These come out of the transmitter through holes made in it. You can then plug the 2 ends in and use the transmitter as normal. Or unplug then and plug in the Male 3 pin wires from the potentiometer on the joystick to the female wires on the transmitter for PC joystick control. I modded the joystick handle using the original bottom part of the joystick handle. The top half is replaced with 8mm threaded bar and 2 nuts. Pieces on tube steel covered in foam padding, and a piece of wood so I could "hold" onto it better. The wood on top jams against my hand when pulling back.
Hope you like it?