NG's extreme force build

northerngames

Well-Known Member
good stuff thanks guy's I went ahead and ordered (2) 4-OZ cans of the tap magic aluminum version off ebay last night and a dubro tap but I am also hunting down to see if I can find a handfull of titanium bits just in case.
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
another little update.

in the first pic for my uppers I want them to thread down more so I need to get the shorter ball ends and change them out on the lower suspension links so it will bring these down the threads more for the uppers and then the links and axles will sit perfect and tightened all the way all around.










I have the same as the front to finish the rear but decided to go with ricks lock out tubes over the weekend so I am waiting for them to come in this week to finish the rear.

all the body stuff is here and or on the way so really I am just down to the center trans stuff and mounting the servo in.

then I just have to decide on the plant but leaning towards another 3400KV 550 can tenshock thier just beast!!

I am also tempted to shave off the stock shock mounts and the whole lip with the 2 filled holes on the knuckles but not sure what I am going to do to tie inthe steering and not sure if I will use any of them or not but if not I will be cutting them off the front axle for sure.

everything clears fine but if they have no use they are just a eyesore to me haha...
 
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northerngames

Well-Known Member
Thanks guy's I am back on target and making progress still.

I decided not to use them just for the looks alone so here is what I been doing today since I got up on my day off pretty much :p







still need to fine sand the shaved part of the old stock mounts a little smoother but other then that I am happy with the way they turned out in shape and looks.

there is also alot more steering throw like this and the ofna cva's over the stock stuff.
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
got all my goods in to pick up where I left off so I will do more pics once I get more together.



got the body and paint, 3mm tap I broke, shorter ball ends to get the links where they tighten down all the way to end thread.

rick's awesome lock out tubes from super shafty and a set of aluminum 8 spacers.

I got the tap magic aluminum version so I no snappy bits no more lol, hobbico cutting mat since I work on tables pretty much for rc use.

I also grabbed a castle 10A bec since it all was from the same ebay seller but wondering if anyone has the link or card and can change the voltage for me I really dont want to buy the card and I am no longer a fan of their motors or esc's so I dont want to buy more just for this type thing.

I still love their bec's though and certain my 1/5 servo is going to need it :p
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
little things here and there noow done.

I need to set the freestyle rc shock mounts in their set spot and screw them in but wanted to get an idea of what it is going to be like with the monster pirate set and also my nitro usa-1 set to make sure they clear with the various off set's.

I dont want to go making extra holes having to move them for other tire sets so I want to get it in between if I can.

once they are set I am back on getting them alumium plates tapped to get the center trans mounted in.











 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
I am happy with the look of this blue for a classic big foot.

I had the intension of backing it in black for the bed next but have to try it on a piece cut out from a wheel well becuase I dont want it to darken to much more but thinking even a flat silver may give it just the look I am after but I like it now as it sits but still hoping the black dont make it too dark so I can proceed lol.

when set on chassis the tires are spot on with the bodys wheel wells so it's working out great so far.







if I dont like the black I have other plans still.

there is a guy on ebay that makes wraith canvas softtops.

I asked for a rectangle on in black with velcro and going to have the white ford emblem embroidered in it if I dont like the color if I back it in black.

he said shoot him the dimension and he could do it so for others that want the scale looking bed liner covers it sounding like he's the man for now.
 
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northerngames

Well-Known Member
not much more done to post pics but a tone in color change but I did end up backing it in black and it turned out even better and totally happy with the out come it is about as close as I can get it to the real thing and glad these colors worked out as intended.

I had to burn a complete full can of the blue though becuase it took about 5-6 coats before it hit the solid sparkle tone I was after.

any less and it was too dull and almost translucent wich would match a later different styled big foot but for the look I was after it worked so I am geeked plus the paint job itself turned out great with no runs, mishaps and straight lines through out too haha...

I got ahold of darkside to do the job at first but then decided ahh I am going to give it shot myself and it worked out still.

between hpi's 2 full sheets it came with and the custom big foot set made for this body coming from canada I have more then I can use decal wise so I am def. set on all that now.

I may even do the same blue and use HPI's sheets and hit up the new kyosho scorpion with them and make a trailer for it so I have a big foot truck and themed buggy and trailer to pull behind it for show until I beat the snot out of both where they are no longer for show.

I been seeing some nice trailers and lowboy's around here lately and never owned or built one so their stuff is tempting me to try one of them from scratch on my own too.
 
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northerngames

Well-Known Member






I just noticed now it get a purple like hue under certain light but it dont show in the pics but this is it before I trim it out and pull the spray overlay wich will make it a tad lighter and bring out the sparkle a tad more.

for a shot n the dark for color choice and never using tamiya spray prior I am happy with it but seen alot of reviews were poeple hated it but I did not see any difference over my standard pactra's other then it needed a few more coats to thicken it up.

the only thing I did not like is hpi has a dimple on the right rail of the truck bed not sure if it was a manufacture fluke or or what but it was their before I even started taping or painting on it but otherwise it came out flawless in the blackend area.

I still may cover it with the canvas softop from the ebay fella or just cut some of it out and throw that muscle machine motor there instead of the hood area.

not sure still changing as I go still I guess.......
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member


peeled back the overlay and it did exactly what I was hoping for.

I trimmed it and set it on the chassis but it does not clear the cab cage yet but once I do that it will drop the body another 2" or so and still should be just right on it.

I am going to start the decal work today sometime using the hpi decals for certain things while I still wait for the bigfoot set coming from canada which should be here monday.

for now the bed area is undecided.

I may cut half of it out throw the muscle machine motor in there so the chassis cage can still be intact or I may just cut out the back of the cage on the chassis and leave out the muscle machine motor and cover the bed with the custom canvas top from the ebay seller.

decisions decisions........
 
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northerngames

Well-Known Member
did not think of that setup yet either so that is another I will consider thanks.

any tricks to get the masking residue off the clear window.

everything on the body looks polished and the window mask left sticky goo on them here and there and now smeared so it's driving me nuts I want them clear clear lol.

pretty much done with the decals now except the bigfoot emblems/spronsors and will do a pic later of it as a stock 79 ford except the side trim and turn signals in case I use the yellow orange stripe decals still.
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member






I noticed in a couple of these pics I need to do another number on the bottom of them bumpers and trim the decals back a tad more still to shape them out better.

there is another spot I want to get better also but what is cool is the canada bigfoot set is pretty much the excact same as HPI's so I can go back over whatever decal with a totally new spare :eek:

less the 2 bigfoot decals itself of course and pretty much a $10 sticker each to me since everything else is almost identical between them and HPI's haha...
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
I found some detail spray under the sink called ice.

no clue but gave it a shot and it worked well for the windsheild but when I did the side's windows it was only then that I figured out it was not smeared from the window mask it was the window decal themselve's so I may razor cut the bigfoot set and replace the one's on the body now so they appear clean and clear over a bubbled fog look.

it is not horrible but I am about getting everything the best I can when it comes to this truck.

I also got the BF set in from canada today too.

here is the page that got me decided on what I wanted to do for the look somewhat body wise and a awesome page on it's own too.

http://monsterphoto.iwarp.com/big9.htm
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
not much progress on the truck since the last update.

Funds are low this month and I been busy at work and around the house.

So in the meantime I have been gathering hardware stuff for my tools and using them to fab my own custom stuff to use as jigs and mounts, clamps, table and what not for my drill press setup.

I am going to start on the aluminum blocks again soon but this time around with clamps vice's guages and what not so I can get it that much more precise wich I am going to need for something like this anyhow.

I have to have the chain dead on with no pitch otherwise it will just eat the lower sprocket up in no time if there is any 4s side load on it :p
 
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