NG's extreme force build

J

joshdzimmerman

Well-Known Member
northerngames said:
possible some of you guy's out there with josh's mad force axle mount kits post me some pictures of how you have the rear lockout setup on the narrowed axles.

I seen pics before and am lost again :rolleyes

I may just go with rick's lockout tube's for the more cleaner looking approach but would like to see what others have done with theirs first.
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Here's what I did on mine. It works pretty good. May not be as solid as the lockout tubes, but I like that you can add a little rear toe.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Thanks to both and I dont know how I missed the side thread.

I was trying to think of a way using the top 4 holes but the link would be all weird and I remember you showing me that same pic before but I lost it some how.

thanks though guy's I am considering both options and all set for that now.

I was totally confused haha...
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
william g said:
Depends
On a narrowed MF axle (short shaft each side) I use the vanquish titanium center link from axial ar60 axle. Using the long Jato 4mm id end it fits perfect. Tough as nails for 16 bucks.
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hey I got the rod in from amain but the one's it came with and all my traxxas ends are too short.

can you possibly shoot me a part number for the correct ends or even a link would do.

I also got some more goodies in and will update soon.

I decided to drop it and go to a 12-1/2" WB but the power I want to pump I dunno if I can keep the front down but I will weight it if I need to but may need a iron block for that ****......
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
I said use the jato ends. Grasshopper must read. If you'd do a quick check you'll find traxxas jato #5525
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Lol....



I did do a search but their is so many traxxas ends out there with a number or letter on them, I did not know what to get for sure and thought I already had a box but they must be from the revo or something else.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
So I racked up what all I have into this in parts alone and actually had no clue I was way way up there already.

This will be my most expensive one to date and currently sitting at $1160

by the time it is done I will have well over $1500 into this one I think wich is just crazy lol.

I still need the motor, esc, battery, bec, body, paint, powder coat and possibly shocks but I think my gmade's will be just right or at least I am hoping.

I had the super scarlet at around $1250 rtr but will have that into this as a roller pretty much.

I am at the point now where it is like jeez should I hang it up or keep going but i am so close and have so much into it already it is too late to back out now type thing.

I sold off most my rc stuff to make this happen and I cannot get them back so this one is def. going to be my most wildest expensive time consuming rc project to date but it also should be the meanest of my rc madness...
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
yeah I am pretty set on getting this one done and sticking with it but I had no idea I had that much into it.

I got a steal on the axles is what started it all thinking they would be the most cost of the build but there cost to overall is nothing now haha...

I got this nice addition in today too.



I like the car itself for some reason and tempted to pull the motor for this but see if I can get a .12 picco in it as a replacement somehow and use mini-t steering stuff up front :cool
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
I was going to wait until I released the theme and look but decided what the heck this build has been going for some time and still going to be another 1-2 months before it is ready to tear the terrian

This is the decal set I went with for the 79 f-150 bigfoot.

and going with the HPI 105127 1979 Ford F-150 Body.

I went ahead and changed over my male mad shaft to a 3/4" less shorter shaft for both side's becuase with my custom center output is it thicker and way beefier then stock and would have got me a 14" wb minimum with was a litte more then I wanted.

so now I will have it sitting at a 12-1/2" wb to match the wheelbase better on the bodies but also so I can run the shocks straight up and down over having them angled almost like the stock force's come wich I am not a fan of in looks or perfornce with thier goofy setup.

I also decided on this for the paint.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161203809358?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT#ht_476wt_669

my only thing with the paint is I dont know if it will even work on lexan bodies without flaking???
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
got my shorter mad shafts in and did another mockup with the axles and lower output assembly.





I also decided to go with this tamiya blue and their black but will trail and error the blue with their black or metallic black to see what acts better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261516686484?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2506wt_907

I snapped a 3mm tap for my servo plate and in it so I ordered a new plate and tap but lesson learned too lol.

I have all the body stuff on the way now so I will be starting on that setup soon too.
 
SWMS

SWMS

Supporting Manufacturer
RCMT Sponsor
Happy to see some more pics showing up!

When tapping, take your time and use cutting fluid.

Tap a little in, then back out a little, then tap a little more, then back out some. Keep repeating until you get to the depth you want.
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
in aluminum use ''tap magic'' best stuff ever, been using it in aluminum since 1982

can't find it locally, get it on ebay
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
cool thanks guy's and will do.

I just did them dry thinking it would work only being 1/4" aluminum but found out wrong real quik.

I stopped at the hardware today for some tapping fluid but they did not have anything so I will grab what you suggested becuase I am not doing that anymore :p

I have the driveline/trans plates done and ready for powder coating for the most part but still working out the length of the wb, links, shocks etc. so I can throw more of it together as a whole now but at the same time I am kinda going along changing things here and there as I go on this one.
 
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william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
also, make sure you go in with the tap perfectly straight, the slightest angle the tap will bind and it will break. A tap cannot flex in a hole, so it must be straight.
 
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