NG's extreme force build

Mo'

Mo'

400 Lux
It's really bad for the internal components of drill press' to milling bits in them. The spindles and bearings in them aren't designed for the kinds of side loads milling bits will put on them. Plus most alot of smaller drill presses use pressed on tapered chucks that can fly off when you apply heavy side loads to them while they spin.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
it is a tapered chuck too and my collar that limits the height is made of rc like plastic that I am not too much of a fan of so eventually I will also be custom modding my new drill press to match all my other toys :p

I may shape out two plates and then bolt them on the outsides so it has a hardened shell to limit the bending.

I am a master at snapping bolt heads off in the worst spots by over powering so I know I will break it eventually if I dont fix it, just snapped a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter yesterday actually.

recently picked up some torque wrench's to tell me when it is tight so no more stop!! :p

they have already paid for themselve's to BTW hahaha...

appretiate all the help and info too guy's so what do you all think of this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-36-inch-belt-6-inch-disc-sander-97181.html

same as my drill I got my savers coupons again and can get that for $65.11 shipped.

I know it is not a hardcore commercial use one but figure for rc's and custom hand made/sized parts it should be great and alot cheaper then a shoulder replacement trying to sand the bars down.

KK....They are 3/8" thick 6061 t61 aluminum

all are 4" wide

2 have both the short side's rounded over so I need them shaved down to 100mm on the cut side's

I can sand them down smooth for the cut sides but I think the few MM of solid 3/8 to sand by hand is going to take me until I am grey.

one of them is 1-1/2" on the rounded sides and 4" on the cut side.

the other is 2" on the rounded sides and 4" on the cut side.

for the motor mount it will not be rounded but a flush rectangle brick the same as above but with no rounded edges but they will still be finished so it will just need to be shaved down also from the 4" to 100mm.

probably will do either a 2" or 2-1/2" length on that one.

I am all ears on the linked sander or if you think you can get them for me I would still consider that too of course but I may grab the sander becuase I dont have one and that's a pretty good deal but have not looked into it's reviews just yet.

HF also has a cheap lathe mill with great reviews I am tempted to grab before this summer is over and if so I know what I will be doing all winter long while laid off :cool :cool :cool

I decided to let my baby go for my 1/1 dodge upgrades and tools so if anyone is in MI and want's a rocket for a 2-stroke quad give me a hollar.....
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Ahh..The last piece to the puzzle

http://supershafty.com/kyosho-axle-mods/349-mip-mad-shafts.html

I was starting to worry becuase I have everything set up for 8mm shafts on the lower part.

pretty sure I have enough for a complete driveline and make it a roller now less the body once the next round of parts show up.

I still need to fab the mounting plates but once there done I can just build it and once it is all together it will then be sent off for powdercoating.

I went ahead and ordered the belt sander from harbor freight in hopes I can shave them down with it but I am still open to sending them off to have them shaved down too if anyone can do it cheap.

I just need to get them done and wait on the mad shafts to come in and I have a stupid amount of links and HD dubro ball ends on the way too.

the only thing not ordered yet is the motor mount, sways and custom panhard parts.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
HawnMT said:
So you're not going to run the longer wheelbase of the Kruiser VE?
Click to expand...
KK-1 was desighned around the 13" wheelbase so I am shooting for the same.

if I still cannot keep the front down with the added weight of the 1/5 servo and aluminum block I may pull the rear out down the road.

I link I've gone cwazy anyhow and have whatever I need for link/WB.

just got'em in today too!!



the dubro ends will not be here until monday but the mad shafts should be here saturday since were in state.

to a science the mad shafts together are 10"+ or 11-1/2"-

the mad force pinion shaft end closest to the bearing and to the center of the diffs output for each axle is almost 1-1/2" exact so another 3" with the two.

and my lower sprocket assembly from the inner shaft ends closest to the center of the assmbly is around 7/8" thick

so that way I will actually be at 13-7/8" at the shortest I can go with no links involved yet.

but with rick's new fancy's I can go a little shorter on the male shaft ends in 8mm still or perhaps just grind the one's on the way now 3/8" each or something.

what is the VE length anyhow? just curious, I based nothing from this build off kyosho's desighn and just going off my own madness on this one but this will be my first true custom all around build and it's looking like the most expensive to date too.

I just hope it does not explode all over the place when I punch it lol.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Thanks to rick and his fast service my mad shafts are here already.

I have and only use mip for axle shafts in all my builds becuase they are the only one's i have never broke yet.

I have never ran or bought center mip driveshafts before but I am glad I did for this build, their beefy!!!

I like how it has dual set screws for each yoke too.

I may just pull them set screws off the drive shafts and then drill the sprocket shaft and each pinion shaft and tap it to the set screws specs so then I can just run a threaded rod right through them or even a hex bolt and nut.

that way there would never slide off.

went to do pics of them mounted on the lower sprocket assembly but the camera battery was low and it cut the power right when I was going to press the button for the pic lol.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
So I ran into a little area that needs attention for the mad shafts to work on the ve lower 8mm output shaft.

one side is keyed to a D shaft on the very end while the other side is a full 8mm and then had the D key down the shaft further then the other side.

the mip shaft bore is not deep enough to clear to the full keyed out area and the set screw hits right on the lip of it so it is only toaching half if it's thread.

it also made my center shimming all out of wack for my custom setup but the best way around this is to just shave the troubled side down to the key to look and match just like the other side.

I will do the before and after pics of what needs to be done to the shaft so the mad shaft seats correctly.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Here are the mad shafts with the stock center ve shaft



here is the stock shaft and notice the right over the left.



this is with them on the left side of the shaft in the pic above



and now with it on the right side where it is keyed down further on the shaft, the set screw now hits the lip and just spins even with both set screws tightened down so thats not going to work as seen in this pic as it rest in the worst spot it could.



so now the modded shaft I just used a dremmel cutoff wheel like a sander and shaved it down after about 1/2 hour of gringing at it lol.



And now after the minor adjustment there golden and ready to rip but more then likely I will drill and tap the shaft to run straight hex nut and bolts over the 2 set screws on each yoke.

 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
Shaft is case hardened, so you need to grind the spot you plan on drilling at or you'll dull the drill bit.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member


just did a quik mockup and the shortest I can get'er is right at 13" maybe a 1/8" over that when the actual pinion shafts are there with the bearings but it may be right on the nose.

I am geeked though and was shooting for the 13" WB the chassis was intended for and the center looks beefy to me!!

those are closed centers too so they can still go out there full extension of that extra 3/8" per side if someone was wanting closer to a 14" wheel base for crawlers these would still work as intended as they come.
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Little progress made today at work :p









I am all down to the millimeter for dimensions on everything so I am all set for the tapping and drilling now too.

I got the sander monday from HF and was geeked when I got home only to find when I opened the box somebody did kung fu on it put it in a strangle hold and then gently tossed it back in the box lol.

I was not having that and called them and having a new one sent wich should be here this monday otherwise I would have the bottom trans parts mounted in the chassis already.

as for the sander it looks to be a great deal but I need one that is new new and not sure what happened to the last one prior to it getting to me :emot124:

I would love to snag this now for $207 shipped but dont have it but when I do and they run it again I will grab this also, it's on my tools to get list anyhow.

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzcwNjAzNzIiLCJza3UiOiI5Mzc2MiIsImlzIjoiMTk5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p ZCI6IjI3MTIifQ==

Then I can chop links and trans mounts all day in the winter for everyone lol.....
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
Had the day off and spent most of it working on this and finally getting more done on the lower driveline.

Def. alot more stout then the king axles I am use to.









now I am off to tinker with my links to start on the steering and rear lockouts and wich way I want to make the knuckles face and what not.

also not sure if I am keeping or cutting off the stock shock mounts by the axles ends just yet since I am going with a chassis mounted servo and panhard I may need them still but if not there off just to keep it clean looking.
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
what are you guy's using for the main steering bar that runs from knuckle to knuckle on this setup?

out of all them links none are even close to connecting the knuckles lol.
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
northerngames said:
what are you guy's using for the main steering bar that runs from knuckle to knuckle on this setup?

out of all them links none are even close to connecting the knuckles lol.
Click to expand...
Depends
On a narrowed MF axle (short shaft each side) I use the vanquish titanium center link from axial ar60 axle. Using the long Jato 4mm id end it fits perfect. Tough as nails for 16 bucks.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
They are narrowed.

I could not imagine what would be needed for a full length set lol.

possible you could link me to the exact parts that way I get it right the first time.

I thought I would be all set links and steering arms wise but they were wider then I thought even after them being narrowed.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
my knuckles have 3mm threads.

I got them from super shafty and shaved them back so clod wheels may clear.

I dont have any of them at the moment to try and not sure if I would anyhow.

there is not much to work with hex wise in 12mm with a 8mm shaft in the middle and with the power I want to run in this I dont think it would last too long.

I could tap them over to a 4mn if I still need to though.
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
possible some of you guy's out there with josh's mad force axle mount kits post me some pictures of how you have the rear lockout setup on the narrowed axles.

I seen pics before and am lost again :rolleyes

I may just go with rick's lockout tube's for the more cleaner looking approach but would like to see what others have done with theirs first.
 
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