NG's extreme force build

northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
the beast of a servo is in!! oachy wa wa check it out next to a stock king servo lol.






I think I am going to need a biiggger BEC :cool

plenty of room and just waiting on the mount from china and going to bolt'er in the chassis with either 4 short standoffs or perhaps another thin aluminum brick/block tapped.

I am going to order one of them press's before the weekend is over too so that will def. help me get some more done on it.

I know most pics are just parts but alot of it I have to custom them even more to work for me this time around the way I want it to be layed but once I get going it will be a more true build thread.

pretty much eveything I am doing just dont bolt up like it was made to be so I have to fab each part for the chassis,driveline,servo etc.

everything is looking good so far and I have the top pretty much done now too and will need more stand offs for it but I will try to get that posted up tonight too, it is done except my custom link/crossemembers to mount it.

once I get the press I can start getting stuff mounted in the chassis but I lack the precision as of now but that will change here soon but I want the holes in the right spot the first time and still be round:p
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
so with this setup the top shaft will be mounted at the top of the chassis center bar that runs the length of the chassis and going to bolt it in at the top side of the middle void either using 4 standoffs/links or going to use two smaller aluminum bricks and tap them with two through holes on each and add the needed holes for it to mount into the chassis plates and it's a done deal for that part of the trans.

the bottom sprocket assembly I am thinnking of taking another solid alumunium block and rounding the edge's off at the yoke/output ends and use something like a 1/4" thick solid piece of aluminum so it works as a skid but also the lower trans mount and cut/shave a recess into the center of it so the chain will clear but not protrude all the way through it so it is still protected from the bottom.

I just need to tap 4 center holes for the lower trans mounts and then go down the flat side's and add the X2 6x32 & X4 3mm threaded tapped holes along it's sides so it will bolt right into the exsisting chassis holes at the bottom of the chassis battery void area.

I ended up mending two chains becuase 1 is not going to be long enough to make the stretch and two is too long so I will need to cut that down a bit once I get the upper and lower sprocket assemblies mounted in with there with the bricks and then I can get the chain cut back to the right length for it all.

with the added chain length I can run the moton pinion and mount the motor in between the spur and lower sprocket assebly now that I have centered the chain to the chassis and the added extra length I now have pinion room to mount the motor under the spur instread of on the side like it would be in stock form.

see pic 8 to get an idea of where it is going but I will not be using the stock mount and just using it for example, I have my eye's on a boxed off type motor mount from a robotics website where I can adjust the motor up and down 90 degree for different pinion size's.

this way too I can mount the motor with the pinion facing the rear of the truck or the other way around facing the front of the truck.

I could probably get a 850kv in this thing with this layout so any motor size or pinion size is no longer a issue for clearence but am stil building around a 4s+ system so it will be pretty packed when said and done.

so now I have that beast of a servo and will mount it up in the nose area and then I plan on laying the battery flush with the bed area mounted between it and the cab.

between the battery weight and the servo weight I am thinking of mounting the motor with the pinion facing the rear that way it should balance out left/right front/rear weight wise using the servo and motor toward the front and then the 4s battery toward the rear.

so I think when I get my press in and some blocks thats when the actual build will kick in alot faster.

just in case the stock chain and sprockets cannot take the pain of the system I have a way to go over to steel sprockets in various size's upper and lower in the .250 class but I desighned the layout so I can go with thicker chains and sprockets if the stock are ever a issue just by changing the sprockets and chain out with another set screw type and bore them out to a 6mm and 8mm but alot can be bought that way already where they are just drop ins from some of these robotic websites.

I am also open to any suggestions or concerns with anything too but beings it is custom I know it's hard to say what I am even thinking lol.

so for now I am off to ordering me that bench top drill press already!!!
 
kjr2

kjr2

Old Timer
Serisously though my dad has that same press and it's been fine. Had it for over 5 years I'd say...
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
I ordered one last night for $65.35 but I had to pay tax so it was $69.89 or something but assume it is coming from in state if that is the case wich I am more then happy to pay the little bit of tax over waiting day's coming from california when I am in michigan type thing.

hopefully it will be here tommorow already :p
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
yeah, I think it is their latest version.

I was almost tempted to get the 10" becuase it comes with a laser dot but if I dig this and get into metal working I may just grab a floor drill press down the road.

I am alway's tinkering with something and pretty much everything I have is modded one way or another weed wacker, chainsaw, quad, mower, rc, pc, arcade cabinets, pig pen, custom controls you name it I modded it hahaha...

I pretty much have all the fancy tools for wood working of any type but thinking of selling off my quad/banshee and getting some metal working tools like a band saw, benchtop lathe/mill, big belt sander, floor drill press, grinder and a slew of others that way I can start making cutom parts for my toy's and others needs.

I am really tempted to get into making custom hd rc parts if everythng goes well this summer and I can get what I want out of my quad wich I am pretty sure I should have no troubles selling it as it would stomp a mud hole in a brand new one anyday of the week lol.

I am going to grab a set of these real soon wich is another steal deal for rc use but only good till the 31rst of this month.

http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-sae-metric-tap-and-die-set-35407.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTY5NjQ0MjciLCJza3UiOiIzNTQwNyIsImlzIjoiMjkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiNTcwIn0=

that is not posted on the site straight up either so the link code must be used to get if for the $29.99 and it had good reviews.

I have box's of new dril bits so I am good there already but I dont have any of these in my collection and figured it is a perfect starter set for rc usage.
 
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northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
little update and would have had this done sooner but my parts from china came up missing stuff so I had to reorder but found a guy in NY so this is what I have for the servo cage for the 40kg 550-oz beast











I have aluminum plates coming in any day for the skid/lower sprocket mount and also another two more so I have one for the servo to thread into once I tap it's 4 side holes and top holes.

the final plate will be part of the motor mount.

I decided to go with 100mm x 3/8" or .375 so there not going under 4s pressure or twisting anything up either.

I am going to have to make some HD servo arms and brackets also just for the sheer force of the servo itself lol.
 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
got my plates in today.

I am happy for less then $14 shipped and had them cut a few millimeters over on the ends so I can sand and level them down in case they were ruff wich they are.

now I wish I had a belt sander becuase it would go alot faster and square off easier.

so I guess on my down time tommorow at work I will be a sandin fool all day becuase I need to get these going and mounted in next.

not sure if I will use all 3 becuase of the weight but I may still becuase I want to put high voltage to this rig and 1/4" did not give me much room to work with when it comes to drilling and tapping 6/32 plus I dont think these babies are bending under any load up to 10s at least lol.

I am going to have to put alot of time into these to buff them up and sand the ends to the right length then drill out the holes and tap them and setting up the drill for each is going to be time consuming but once there said and done there off to fatboy for powdercoating if I dont like the bare finish although polishing them to a scratchless shine would be where it is at but my elbows aint doing it.

a bunch is going fatboys way anyhow so I may just throw these in the mix too once there ready for the final adjustment.

onlinemetals.com has many type's of metals cut to your length, thickness, various shapes, etc. and is in the states with reasonable shipping and service and will probably be going back to them sooner then later.

it is actually cheaper to have your small stuff custom cut then buying a single strip of one size and shape from any hardware or hobby shop and it's the good real raw metal form too.

I went with 6061 t6 but there are other grades too and each of my plates came with a personal signatured inspection slip for each part so the place is the real deal for real metal on the cheap and my stuff was cut and shipped in 2 days.

 
northerngames

northerngames

Well-Known Member
alright so hand sanding these is going to go over like a f.a.r.t. in church.

they are approx. a few hairs over 4" amd I need them to be a accurate 100 on both side's of 3 plates.

I am going to have to order another 2" for my motor mount becuase I need a flat flush surface for it where the one I have is a rounded edge my fualt for the wrong shape on that one though but I may still use it for something else.

anyhow is there anyone out there that can shave these down for me on the cheap to a accurate 100mm?

I was going to buy a belt sander or something to cut them but I am limited on the funds at the moment for something like that but do plan on getting one but I need to get these done soon so I can get this rolling again.

I link I've gone crazy on various links like a order of over 80 so there will be plenty of spanking new spares to sell off here.

I just got the jigs for the drill so I am going to start making custom one's too soon as I get more together here over the summer and this project wrapped up.

the next project I think I am just going to try my hand at making custom stuff for us all.
 
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SWMS

SWMS

Supporting Manufacturer
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Are they square on one side and rough cut on the other side?

Or are they rough on both sides?
 
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