New Drive Shafts For My Mountaineer

Discussion in 'Tamiya RC Monster Truck Forum' started by Ollis-Mountaineer, Aug 15, 2006.

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  1. Aug 15, 2006 #1

    Ollis-Mountaineer

    Ollis-Mountaineer

    Ollis-Mountaineer

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    Last edited: Aug 20, 2007
  2. Aug 15, 2006 #2

    ScaleManiac

    ScaleManiac

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    Welcome to RCMT, I think what you are talking about are the drive shafts right?? If so those are traxxas stampede sliders with steal yokes on each end. Hope that helps.

    Mike
     
  3. Aug 15, 2006 #3

    Spoon37

    Spoon37

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    yes the Shafts are Traxxas stampede/rustler sliders: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ82&P=ML

    and the shiny silver yokes are most likely from a Tamiya Juggernaut 2 style driveshaft: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUR40&P=7

    a few years ago it was a good way of modifying the Juggernaut 2 to use slider driveshafts(albeit slightly larger T-maxx sliders).

    the alternative is that they might be Traxxas steel output yokes which should also work: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG59&P=7

    in either case a little modification may be necessary to get them to fit a bruiser/mountaineer.

    Welcome to the board too! :kudo

    :truck
     
  4. Aug 15, 2006 #4

    Ollis-Mountaineer

    Ollis-Mountaineer

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    Thank you for the fast help.Exactly I had looked for that.
    I think that this the correct parts will be:

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG59&P=7

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ82&P=ML

    Someone knows the length of the two Traxxas Long Truck Half Shafts?

    Or is it possible to use these Shafts for it? :
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFY1&P=0

    Ingenious board, there makes the car still more fun.

    P.S.:please excused, my English should be not always correct
     
  5. Aug 15, 2006 #5

    william g

    william g

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  6. Aug 15, 2006 #6

    Ollis-Mountaineer

    Ollis-Mountaineer

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    Many thanks @ william g

    Thus I think that the following parts are the correct choice for substitution of the Shafts with the Mountaineer:

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG59&P=7

    Have the drive yokes the correct diameter of 5mm?

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH85&P=Z

    Did these Shafts have also the correct length or are at least longer as replacement for the rear, longer Shaft?To shorten one can do it in any case.

    The minimum length of the long Shaft is 140mm,for the short one 80mm.

    Sorry for the many questions, but a conversion would not be possible with the long distance from Germany.
     
  7. Aug 15, 2006 #7

    william g

    william g

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    to make a longer shaft you cut and section a traxxas shaft

    1 way is by using 2 male (inner) parts and 1 female (outer)
    cut and trim the flange and yoke completly off 1 female and 1 male

    Then starting with a male, slip the now tube female over, and the cut section of mail inside that

    piecing it together you can measure and cut/section what you need, then glue it up solid. Some even put a section of threaded rod (all thread) inside with epoxy/glue to strengthen it.

    Just remember to leave enough material to slide in securly to another joint for the other end
    see pic to help clarify
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Aug 16, 2006 #8

    ScaleManiac

    ScaleManiac

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    Thats the way I do them on my truck! Nice illustration Will :kudo Maybe we can sticky this info then? Im sure it will help others.

    Mike
     
  9. Sep 5, 2006 #9

    Ollis-Mountaineer

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    Now I found the correct Drive Shafts for my Mountaineer.
    I would say, it's impossible to use ones from Traxxas Revo,they are much too big and it does not look good.
    Thus I searched in the Net and take Shafts from Traxxas E-Maxx.
    From the length these are optimal.
    The short one must be only shortened a little bit,the long one ist suitably.
    The ends of the long Shaft must be changed (look at the Picture).
    Then only the holes must drilled out with a 6mm Drill and a Tube must be used.
    But look,Pictures say more than words:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Drilled out:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    :truck
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2007
  10. Sep 5, 2006 #10

    william g

    william g

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    Nice work.
    Looks good and strong, let us know after a few runs how it's holding up.
     
  11. Sep 5, 2006 #11

    Thorvald

    Thorvald

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    I acutally just found a set of Jugg Prop. shafts at my local hobby store...staring me in the face.

    I assume they should work well for the Bruiser, just need to cut one of them down to fit the front right?

    Once I get home I can measure them up.
     
  12. Sep 5, 2006 #12

    william g

    william g

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    yes, shorten front, and lengthen the rear
    I pop them apart and swap shafts.

    I use a flat blade screwdriver and "chisel" at the sheetmetal steel cap
     
  13. Sep 6, 2006 #13

    Thorvald

    Thorvald

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    Oh you mean I can exchange the shafts on them? (Bruiser and Jugg props)

    I thought the Jugg prop would just bolt right into the rear, it looks the right size?

    I just don't want to open the package yet... it was $49 for the set and I can still return it if I don't need it :)
     
  14. Sep 6, 2006 #14

    Thorvald

    Thorvald

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    Ah wait! I don't have Jugg shafts....the package I found is:

    RC Propeller Joint Bag: 58280
    Item #9415824
    MSRP: $35.00

    [​IMG]

    (This is not the Juggernaut part, which is 9415646).

    These are apparently for the TXT-1. They seem to match the rear shaft on the Bruiser perfectly.

    Has anyone tried these?
     
  15. Sep 8, 2006 #15

    Thorvald

    Thorvald

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    Here are the TXT-1 shafts compared to the original Bruiser shafts, they look perfect!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Once I get my rear end together, I'll try one out.
     
  16. Oct 24, 2006 #16

    Electrohacker

    Electrohacker

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    they are perfect. I have jugg shafts on my bruiser project (EdgeCrusher)
     
  17. Dec 28, 2008 #17

    mattcoolgame

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    so what would the easiest and cheapest way to make the shafts or even to buy them so i can abuse them and put a plow on my brusier.
     
  18. Jun 16, 2010 #18

    mrgetbad

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    im glad i saw this thread almost passed on a bruiser beacuse there were no shafts... cmon epay..lol
     
  19. Jun 18, 2010 #19

    FSCHENCK07

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    Nice

    DID THOSE SHAFTS RUB AGAINST THE MECHANICAL BOX? I USED RC4WD SHAFTS I HAD TO PUT SPACERS BETWEEN THE FRAME AND THE MECHANICAL SO THEY DID NOT RUB? I SHOULD HAVE USED THOSE SHAFTS BECAUSE I THINK THEY LOOK NICER AND THEY ARE CHEAPER. ANYWAYS NICE JOB:tmb
     
  20. Apr 15, 2018 #20

    atrc

    atrc

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    Get yourself some punisher shafts from rc4wd. They are sliders and stronger than the cheap tamyia brass u-joints.
     

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