My first build thread. The racing Gecko.

[fig865]

I picked up a rolling clod with an ESP Zilla 3 chassis. I also got a Gecko 2 chassis for a good price. I quickly swapped to the Gecko chassis because it seems alot closer to a racing chassis than the Zilla. Now I have some ideas on how to make the Gecko more adjustable for racing so I will be posting pics of my first clod project here.

Please chime in with any feedback and/or ideas.

Here is the truck after swapping to the Gecko. I also put on the front bumper/servo mount. My plans are to go with a BTA setup though. Also in the plans are a rear steer lockout kit, and wheel spacers. Then comes the electronics.

 

[cpe mt]

I'd try and move your upper links so they're a little more parallel to the lowers. Putting tham at the same level as the body mounts would help. If you also make it so your gearcases tip in (towards the chassis) a few degrees, that will also help.

 

[fig865]

I'd try and move your upper links so they're a little more parallel to the lowers. Putting tham at the same level as the body mounts would help. If you also make it so your gearcases tip in (towards the chassis) a few degrees, that will also help.

Awesome, I'm very happy to see that I'm on the same page as someone with the experience you have.

My plans are to move the upper links like you said and that will lower the CG a ton. Upper shock mounts will have a bunch of location options as well as the link mounts. I did not know about the gearcase angle so thank you for that. The WB is 13.5" right now but I'll have options for that as well. Should I think about 4WS at all or will I get enough steering from the front?

 

[cpe mt]

I'd just leave it as 2WS and run it. If you feel like it needs more steering, just add it in.

That Gecko chassis doesn't leave you much room for a bunch of mounting holes, but you can still make it better than it is right now.

 

[crawlin4fun]

what are you doing with the esp chassis?

 

[fig865]

what are you doing with the esp chassis?

Funny you should ask......This here is my 28th post on this awesome site, and in a couple more it will be in the classified section with some other odds and ends.

 

[fig865]

That Gecko chassis doesn't leave you much room for a bunch of mounting holes, but you can still make it better than it is right now.

My plans pretty much will be to create add on side plates. I'll maybe trim some aluminum out to shave a little weight but the basic construction will be there for the support. I don't want to knock your awesome chassis or anybody else's, but I just wanted to play for cheap with my first truck. We don't even have any kind of events to race these at up here. That will come next after a couple trucks are done.

 

[fig865]

UPDATE......................

I just scored a great deal on a Mamba Max and 3 Mamba motors on that big auction site. During dirt oval season I'll put it in my Late Model and use the motors in that. Otherwise it will be in my Clod with a couple brushed mods. That leads me to a rookie question. What's the deal with having a reverse rotation motor. For example, I plan on using 2 Speed Gems 2 12turn doubles. Are they ok to wire one backwards?

I've tried some things with the chassis. I will post pics of what I've tried soon.

 

[cpe mt]

The rear gearcase on the Clod is reversed. Easiest thing to do is to make sure the timing is set at zero on the can and reverse the wires going to hte rear motor.

 

[fig865]

Would I have to run both at zero timing to keep the performance close? Does this shorten the motor/brush life at all?

 

[cpe mt]

Yes you would, and no it doesn't effect the motor life. There may be a few guys here who will run with advanced timing, but it's more than a simple timing change to sync up the rear motor.

 

[fig865]

I made up my test chassis plates. I'm going to use these just to start running the truck. I'm sure I'll make changes with mounting locations and probably the material I made them from.

I also got my Mamba Max in so I'm getting close to being able to run it. I now have to order my rear steer lockout kit and other parts.

 

[Locoboy5150]

That looks much better with the correct upper link geometry. It's best to keep the upper and lower links as parallel as possible (when viewing the truck from the sides) throughout the wheel travel. That will keep the steering caster as consistent as possible. Varying caster as the suspension is compressed/extended can result in twitchy and unpredictable handling.

 

[fig865]

That looks much better with the correct upper link geometry. It's best to keep the upper and lower links as parallel as possible (when viewing the truck from the sides) throughout the wheel travel. That will keep the steering caster as consistent as possible. Varying caster as the suspension is compressed/extended can result in twitchy and unpredictable handling.

Thanks man. I've gathered that by looking at any of the chassis manufacturers. I am not completely happy with the location of the upper link mounts compared to the upper shock mounts. That's why I'm just calling this my first test. Once I get the steering components I need and install the electronics, I can drive the truck and start to get a feel for it. I hope to try some things with the mounding locations and once I find stuff I really like, I can make the add on plates alot nicer.

 

[DEVASTATOR]

I hope you aren't planning to run just one Mamba Max esc with two BL motors. You'll fry the esc in a heart beat. You need two esc's to handle dual BL motors. I just saw this topic and figured I better chime in because the way your one post reads, you're only planning to use one esc.

 

[fig865]

I hope you aren't planning to run just one Mamba Max esc with two BL motors. You'll fry the esc in a heart beat. You need two esc's to handle dual BL motors. I just saw this topic and figured I better chime in because the way your one post reads, you're only planning to use one esc.

Thanks for the warning but I plan on running 2 brushed mods. I will however be using the Mamba Max in my dirt oval car with brushless.

 

[DEVASTATOR]

Oh, ok, then you'll be fine. Just didn't want to see you smoke a good esc.

 

[fig865]

So I got the electronics for my clod, mounted them up and tried it out. I'd like to mention that this is the first time I've driven a clod in about 12 years. Driving mine in the house yesterday was enough to remind me how fun they are. And also why they have such a strong following. I was as giddy as a school girl running the thing up and down the hall. Then I'd do "car crushing" over a throwpillow in the living room. (my 16mo old daughter loved the thing too) I'm still running the stock motors but they were plenty for inside the house. Rear steer would've also been helpful in the tight quarters. I might want to think about it anyways because if and when I get some racing going here locally, it will most likely be tight courses.

So that leads me to a new question for all the experts here: What kind of mods will get more steering. I'm guessing the mounting point on the servo horn/saver will make a big difference. Do you notice more with wheel wideners? How about BTA setups?

 

[metalicagod]

have you cut off the steering stops on the axle tubes and knuckles? if not, that would be the first place to start.

 

[fig865]

have you cut off the steering stops on the axle tubes and knuckles? if not, that would be the first place to start.

Nope, never even thought of it. Thanks! That's the kind of stuff I need to learn. Is there a downside to doing this? Any problems with the axles?