My Bruiser Hybrid

ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
Installed my rear shock mount and body mount, drilled the holes myself and they are actually square and even in everyway :tong WOO :tmbso yea, its rolling.. now I just have to install the ESC, servo, and reciever and I can drive it. Lots of detail work left to do, hinge the tool box lid, finishing detailing the body, and start on the most insane interior to date :cool

also I dont like the track width :-( the offset on the wheels is NG which sucks...sooo either I am going to:
A) Order wheels with alot less offset and use narrowed BF goodrichs still
B) Just ordered 5 1.9 narrowed claw dawgs
C) Run geos, test fitted last night, looks sick with them and these wheels

It tucks the tires but not like chinos rig on rcc...which is what I want it to do..

anyway here are the pics








 
mcfig

mcfig

Well-Known Member
Looks great
:drool :drool :drool :drool :drool :drool

Whats that monster in the back? :willy
 
W

William

Guest
Looking good Mike.
Are the hoigh lift springs going to be enough to hold it up when a battery and all the goodies go in, or are you using a LIPO on this rig?

I like the primer fender, looks like one owned by Joe Alky after a friday night bender ride home.
 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
William said:
Looking good Mike.
Are the hoigh lift springs going to be enough to hold it up when a battery and all the goodies go in, or are you using a LIPO on this rig?

I like the primer fender, looks like one owned by Joe Alky after a friday night bender ride home.
Click to expand...
Will you are good my friend :tmb its not looking good for the high lift shock as its just starting to sag ever so slightly already.. I have some regular gold bodied shocks that arent that bad looking if I strip the gold off but I was really hoping I could get away with the high lift shocks for the scale looking... I am also trying to source a better spring rate too.

I like the primered fender alot too, cant say I thought of it on my own, borrowed the idea from another buddies rig

as for a battery, I usually run a 2/3 cell pack 1200 nimh or 14nimh to keep the wieght down as they are usually heavy enough as it is!

Mike
 
W

William

Guest
I wonder if you could stack Frog-brat front springs inside a tlt or high lift shock?

A single 1 each side will carry the brat and blitzer beetle body just fine on the frog chassis. Might be a good alternative?

TeamCRP I think it is on e-pay has been selling tons of frog parts, don't know if he has the front inners, or you could try tower. I don't think 4 front inner frog-brat springs would break the bank if you can find them.

They are about the same diameter as a .22 shell.
 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
update update update!

Had alot of time this weekend to work on this, which made me very happy. I want it to be for when the nice weather hits so I can take it out and beat on it some get some real scratches on this thing :cool

Anyways, I hinged the tool box, and I must say it kicked my 00000 for a while. Originally I was going to hing it the opposit way so it would open all the way, I even ground out the tool box some to try to hide the hinde and drilled an extra hole in the lid (hence why it has 3 screws on each side, one is a dummy on each side) :bang Well after alot of trial and a ton of error. I decided to hinge it like normal and hope for the best that it would clear the cab enough to open




The results were pretty good, it opens way more then half before catching the cab so I am pretty happy.


Next, this thing is getting my most wicked interior to date. Full door panels, drop floor with trans tunnel and gas pedals, radio, ligh up guages ETC ETC

start of the door panels


Then yea know that felt thing thats on the door panels and door frame? on either side of the window? usually fills up nicely with dirt, sand, and mud when you go wheeling and then proceeds to scratch the crap out of the window (haha) well this is getting that




rolled down my windows to so youll be able to see all the goods inside

Looks like the real deal right?



I then cut up the dash, re used some of it and flipped it and re glued, then styrened the rest





Well thanks for looking. more to come!

-Mike
 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
I also through on my Bruiser Builder 1.9s with the center caps from the 4runner wheels... it looks 100x better and tucks the real wheel so much better. Now I just have to wait for my 1.9 claw dawgs to get here


 
mcfig

mcfig

Well-Known Member
The truck is looking great. The detail is amazing. Very smart on the door panels and felt. Looks very real. :drool
 
W

William

Guest
really turning out nice Mike.
You certainly have patience :tmb
 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
I have a GOAL

I have decided early this week, this may just be my most scale built to date.. I have been into RC for a long long time (close to 14 years) and I have had a few GOALS/Dreams... One was becoming a member of Tweaked Racing and as of Feb. 2007 I am part of there clod race TEAM WOOO HOOO:D . Next has been to get a truck of mine into some sort of magazine. Many years ago I tried the readers rides of RCCA, sent in pics of my FULL TILT clod (old school z2 with tlt nose/hemi/ tilt bed etc) and of my Orange you Jealous Bruiser...neither of which made it... SOOO I am going all out on this one, and before I romp the shiat out of it, I am going to take some really good shots of it, write up all the details and send it out and see if itll make it... This is my GOAL...and hey, ya never know right?

So now I am taking the build up a notch, Here is the latest interior pics. After its complete, im tearing the truck back down, everything will be powder coated and made to be as real as possible.

enough babble, here are the pics


Made a transmission tunnel, then carpeted the floor with a nice heavy duty carpet


Then with a really light grade stick on felt, I started on the seat. I wanted it to retain its detail, so thats why I went with a thinner felt rather then like the thick stuff for the carpet. This took me roughly an hour, I had to slightly overlap each piece and make sure it filled in the lines in between

The finished product was well worth the time and effort

Moving on, I completed the lower gauge assembly, and went with an air craft gray paint. I rounded all the corners off just like the real thing and placed the correct gauges with in.



I then finished off the heater duct


While staring at the printed photos from chino63/Dean on RCC, I noticed there was a small detail missing. a little bit of styrene and some sanding and we were good to go



 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
more interior details

I then started carving out the dash for the heater ducts on each side. I started by drilling a whole, then using a special bit on the dremel, then finished it off by beveling it like the real truck with an exacto knife. I then sanded it smooth, and back the back side with styrene to give it that recessed looked


And then... (haha)

I took a picture of the mock up and where it is as of right now.


I decided to NOT carve out the dash for the temp and fuel gauge...it would be so tiny and may not be able to cut my special stickers small enough and would end up loosing the detail. so they will just be stuck on .

I still have alot more to do, like the heater switches/sliders, Stereo, shifters, pedals, door panel detailing etc etc etc

I would like to thank Kevin @ the ancient Toyota specialists:wnk:tong, he send me a picture of the gauge cluster from a 1982 SR5 hilux toyota brochure That he had one record still :eek:tmb

-Mike


 
ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
spent the weekend in the basement, wrenching my 00000 off on this thing. The results are exactly what I wanted and I am very happy with the outcome.

While waiting for some paint to dry, I started on the door panels, I couldnt put the arm rests on because they would have interfered with the interior itself, sooooooo I skipped that step, made a door handle, made some speakers, made the map bag holder thing (sr5 option), and made a window crank



Getting back to the interior, really got cranking on it. I made a latch for the glove box, mounted the CB, mounted the steering column and wheel, added the turn signal switch too. I then carved out the dash for the heater controls and added the sliders for the temp and fan speed adjustments. Wild willy shifters werent going to cut it for this build, so I chucked up some 1/8 styrene into the dremel and milled it down with sand paper to make them look just like the real shifters. Since I am muscle car fan, I opted to go with some Hurst shift knobs, plus a friend of mine, who had a real yota had those and it was cool...at least I thought so.


I also wanted this rig to have a nice stereo, so I made a deck, has the tuner and volume knobs, eject cd button, and other stereo related buttons



Incase you didnt, notice already, I built all 3 pedals as well



After everything was all said and done, I got it mounted up in the body, I rolled down the windows for easier viewing.


The inclinometer didnt pan out:( I built it, but it was out of scale and was to big...so I skipped it..

ALSO, I spent all that time on the door speakers and map holder only so it cant be scene :ack lesson learned...unless the doors open, dont bother with those

Here it is back together


Wheels look SICK,I sprayed the centers semi flat black. I wish the kyosho center caps were still available...they really make a rig



O BTW, we are officialing TUCK'n it :tmb


Next up is wiring all the dash and gauge lights, headlights, parking lights, tail lights. finish whatever body stuff is left to do. then Ill start on bumpers, sliders, etc and making it run

Thanks for looking
-Mike
 
W

William

Guest
Great job:tmb

here is that dash again
 
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ScaleManiac

ScaleManiac

Well-Known Member
Thanks for brightening that up, you can really see all the details now :tmb CB is set to channel 6, same channel my friends and I use when we go wheeling
 
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