Loud Tranny

[clodemt27]

Hey guys, kinda new here been doing alot of reading but havent really found out one thing im wondering about. I bought a txt about a year ago and I rebuilt the tranny because it was noisy and it was a used truck. So after all new gears and cases I still have a noisy tranny. Is this common for this truck? I also have a jugg 2 that is 10x's quiter and smoother than my txt and i know they have the same trans. So any input would be appreciated.

 

[HawnMT]

Yeah they can be kinda loud, the motors are a big reason for the noise. The gear mesh, the wear of the stock aluminum pinions, and the position of the rotors in relation to each other all can add to the noise factor. That last one is really for hop-up motors, it's where you have the rotors in the same position in relation to each other when you install them. That means their magnetic fields are in phase with each other as they rotate.

 

[Ceasar23]

Welcome to the board! Ok I have 2 TXT-1's running 13x2's and very little noise if any coming from either of my trucks. However, I will ask two questions before giving you any advise.

1st, do you have bearings or the stock bushings in the tranny?

2nd, what motors are you running?

Now the reason I asked number one is simple, bushings can become worn out and will allow the gear shafts to move thus allowing for gear wobble creating additional noise and could lead to a broken gear or two. Bearings is a must for the TXT-1 and will take care of this problem.

NOTE: The most important part of minimizing noise is getting the proper gear mesh set for both motors. Remember both motors are turning the same gear, if either motor has the wrong gear mesh the two motors will fight each other and create extra noise. You could also end up with a chipped spur gear from this as well.

Now for the reason for the second question is also simple. The two motors have to be identical, meaning you can't run a 15x2 and a 13x2. This would cause the two motors to fight each other. Only seen this once but it caught me off guard and it was a newbie that tried it. So worth mentioning.

Hope this helps.

Ceasar

 

[clodemt27]

They are the stock motors, I rebuilt the trans when i got the truck about a year ago and best i can remember it has bearings. Im finally getting some time to mess with the truck again since I finished my clod project, and I was really wanting to get this issue resolved. I have an extra e maxx trans that i thought about using, but no more than i will be running the truck i also thought about leaving the original trans in it. I will be tearing it down once again tommorow night and looking it over, also what would be the easiest and least expensive way to lock the rear diff?

 

[jgb7038]

Cheapest/easiest way to lock the rear diff is JB weld.

 

[Ceasar23]

Ok when you tear down the trans. also check for cracks near where the gear shafts meet the sides of the gear box. These too can allow the gear shafts to move creating unwanted gear chatter/noise and lead to a broken gear.

If you have bearings check them and make sure they are intact and that you don't have a bad or blown bearing. This too will cause the same thing as mentioned above.

Keep chasing the problem and don't give up. The TXT-1 transmission is one of the best out there and is very strong.

One last thing don't be cheap on the grease when you put it back together, no grease will the gears themselves to be noisy as well. The grease will help dampen them. If you find something post and we (RCMTer's) can help you out.

Ceasar

 

[clodemt27]

Thanks fellas, also what kind of grease would you recommend the tamiya grease or a little heavier type? Ive played around with different types of grease in other diffs and tranny's but i want to basically do this one time and be done. Especially since its such a pain to get the thing out and I've already tore it down once before. Oh and is there a thread on how to lock the rear diff with the jb weld or can somone give some guidance?

 

[MT TRUCKER14]

I have the same problem. I found that it was the pinion gears. The aluminum ones were quiet in forward but backward noisy. The problem is when you put the truck in reverse. Their is no slow speed putting stress on the gears causing the gears to wear. I tried lower pinion gears and some of the noise went away.

 

[ZRP_Racing]

Don't think I would put JB weld in that diff. I personally would by the RC4WD diff locker. But I also saw some where that you could move a spider gear and pin to lock the diff. I'll look around to see if I can find the article.

 

[clodemt27]

Thanks stang, and mt mine seems to be noisy all the time but i have some other pinions not sure what tooth but ill check into that if i have no luck tonight.

 

[HawnMT]

Don't think I would put JB weld in that diff. I personally would by the RC4WD diff locker. But I also saw some where that you could move a spider gear and pin to lock the diff. I'll look around to see if I can find the article.

Guys started doing the spider gear method because they thought it was reversible but in fact it just ended up eating up the gears anyway. There's too mch stress put on them and they warp making them unusable and can fail as a locker. A spool like the ones from RC4WD are best option but kinda pricey.

JB weld does fine and most of the time it can be reversed. I've "unlocked" a few JB welded diffs over the last couple of years. JB Weld doesn't stick very well and if you use a little less hardener when mixing it it will just crumble off the gears when you want to unlock but it will still hold as a locker. This really only works in enclosed diffs llike the tlt and txt. Just make sure you remove the 9mm shim/washers as they are really hard to get.

Another way is to mix JB as normal but only use enough to lock the gears. Here's a pic of one I did. Then all you have to do is buy a set gears, like $10 for two sets.

 

[clodemt27]

Well i got the truck back together and its somewhat quieter but nowhere near as quiet as my jugg 2. Thanks for all the help fellas. I found that the pinion gears had some wear to them and i replaced them with some 13 tooth gears i had. As for the rest of the trans the gears looked great which they are basically new I just added some more grease to them. While I had it torn down I went ahead and threw in some titan 550's and my super duty esc. Now the truck wheelies like crazy. I plan on getting some hotter motors cause its still a little slower than I'd like. Plus I need rear steer BAD!! It takes a acre to turn this thing around. SO I guess over the next few days I'll be locking my rear diff and trying to locate the parts for the rear steer. Thanks again guys.:rock

 

[HawnMT]

If your going to run rear steer I wouldn't lock the rear diff you'll just end up flipping the truck everytime you attempt to turn while going fast. Of course this depends on your suspension setup and how fast your truck can go but in general it's not a good idea. In fact one of the times I unlocked a diff was the rear diff out of my TXT basher. I even had locked out the rear steer and the locked diff was throwing off handling.

 

[clodemt27]

huh oh ok whats the best way to set up the rear steer? i bought the truck used therefore no parts.

 

[HawnMT]

huh oh ok whats the best way to set up the rear steer? i bought the truck used therefore no parts.

Do you have the skidplate/servo mount? If you do you just need some servo mounts and a steering arm and your set. There are two ways to mount the rear servo. The first way is like the instruction have it, which requires a few more parts and only requires a regular y-harness. The second way is to mirror the front setup and either use a servo reversing y-harness or have it setup with it's own channel.

 

[clodemt27]

K yeah i have the rear skid and bumper there the rear is locked but i have enough parts and pieces from other projects I should be good ot go then thanks.

 

[clodemt27]

After pulling my hair out and following the directions from the txt manual (which ended up beign worng) I finally got it. My rear steer is in and im charging up my batteries now to see how much better it steers. Thanks fellas.

 

[HawnMT]

After pulling my hair out and following the directions from the txt manual (which ended up beign worng) I finally got it. My rear steer is in and im charging up my batteries now to see how much better it steers. Thanks fellas.

You know it's funny I've never setup my rear steering like the instructions had them. I just mirrored the front and ran a servo reversing y-harness.

 

[clodemt27]

Yeah well I have a y harness but i didnt know it would reverse it. I knew my clod rear servo horn is reversed compared to the front so I thought the same here. So when i checked the txt instructions they showed it reversed, but aparently the harness reversed it so i was all backwards.

 

[clodemt27]

WOW, what a difference that rear steer made. My only mistake was running tonight at work on a break. I made a stupid mistake and turned the wrong way and hit the curb breaking my rear knuckle where the steering arm connects. :rof It's all good though cause I got lots of spare clod parts and i know that i have a knuckle to replace it with. Thanks again fellas for the help.