K2-3l Build
- Thread starter Gimbal
- Start date
those are pretty nice, I had the older short version built it, but never ran it sold it.
I use tc3 shocks with the rally kit conversion, basicly longer piston rods and longer springs. All parts laying around.
To see mine, http://myrcmt.net/review/kaetwo/
I use tc3 shocks with the rally kit conversion, basicly longer piston rods and longer springs. All parts laying around.
To see mine, http://myrcmt.net/review/kaetwo/
Rally kit? You mean this one? I already bought a set of these.
I have some TLT axles and a pede trans ready. But I have to cut the lid and mock it up so I can properly locate the tires in the wheel wells. Then I can see how long the links need to be... I hate cutting lids :banghead I should just invest in a good set of body scissors. Any recommendations?
I have some TLT axles and a pede trans ready. But I have to cut the lid and mock it up so I can properly locate the tires in the wheel wells. Then I can see how long the links need to be... I hate cutting lids :banghead I should just invest in a good set of body scissors. Any recommendations?
kyosho makes nice ones, have had mine for 10 years or more http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD573&P=ML 7.99
that is the kit where my shock shafts and springs came from
but
I had it, didn't buy for this build
stock tc3 would work if you put a longer ball end on them
the tamiya plastic touring car shocks assembled with no internal spacers would be nice and are only 21.50 no springs to bad you didn't grab them to save $
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETM6&P=Z
have you locked the pede diff? It's a must.
did you cut it? I cut the tranny near where the suspension arm pivot holes are. Use a hack saw, dremel just melts the plastic and takes longer. Cut those off, cut off the bottom where the screw is under the motor so the tranny can sit flat.
I like to setup the rear links a half inch or so longer than my fronts to keep weight shifted forwards.
that is the kit where my shock shafts and springs came from
but
I had it, didn't buy for this build
stock tc3 would work if you put a longer ball end on them
the tamiya plastic touring car shocks assembled with no internal spacers would be nice and are only 21.50 no springs to bad you didn't grab them to save $
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETM6&P=Z
have you locked the pede diff? It's a must.
did you cut it? I cut the tranny near where the suspension arm pivot holes are. Use a hack saw, dremel just melts the plastic and takes longer. Cut those off, cut off the bottom where the screw is under the motor so the tranny can sit flat.
I like to setup the rear links a half inch or so longer than my fronts to keep weight shifted forwards.
Yhea, my trans is already locked up and the case is well hacked :ack One thing I dont like about the pede trans is the spur tends to be slightly out of round. Dunno if this is due to the slipper remover gizmo or the spur itself. Basically if you set your motor mesh, then turn the spur 180? the mesh will be different. But then, it's a crawler, so not that big of a deal. Someone recommended leaving the dust cover mount section on the case to help with case flex. Mine is already hacked off.
Nope, did not cut my lid yet. Maybe over the weekend.
Nope, did not cut my lid yet. Maybe over the weekend.
kjr2
Old Timer
No he means why does the title area automatically format your captial letters for you. You cannot make a title that says K2-3L or k2-3l because it automatically capitalizes the first letter of every group and will not let you capitalize any other. Example TT-01 is not possible. It makes it Tt-01 every time. And tt-01 is not possible cuz it will capitalize the first letter....
offroadford4x4
Senior Member
sweet! another bronco 
Finally got some more time in on this project
I went with the Tamiya oil shocks like everyone else. Im not a big fan of gold shocks tho, so I stripped them.
Modded the lower shock mounts a little
Nice smooth belly and experienced diff cases
Since this will be a true wheeler complete with snorkel, I splurged and got a set of Dynamite red seal bearings and I put alot of white lithium grease in the axle cases and a little in the trans.
Ive heard if you pack your servo with grease you can safely go under with it... so thats the plan once I get the final servo in hand. Think Ill stick with an analog unit.
Oh, and my waterproof ESC came in from hong kong, woohoo!
I went with the Tamiya oil shocks like everyone else. Im not a big fan of gold shocks tho, so I stripped them.
Modded the lower shock mounts a little
Nice smooth belly and experienced diff cases
Since this will be a true wheeler complete with snorkel, I splurged and got a set of Dynamite red seal bearings and I put alot of white lithium grease in the axle cases and a little in the trans.
Ive heard if you pack your servo with grease you can safely go under with it... so thats the plan once I get the final servo in hand. Think Ill stick with an analog unit.
Oh, and my waterproof ESC came in from hong kong, woohoo!
Electrohacker
Well-Known Member
ive had good luck with hitec servos in water because of all the extra rubber seals they add to them
Supreme Reign
Well-Known Member
Gimbal, I am so diggin' that chassis all blacked out
I'm trying not to buy one :banghead
Electro, thanks for the Hitec tip. I've got several pairs of them and that's good to know
Electro, thanks for the Hitec tip. I've got several pairs of them and that's good to know
