How many own a VXL traxxas product? Opinions? _ _ Mine added 1-18-08

[william g]

Do you own a vxl pede, bandit or rustler?

Do you like it, was it worth the cash?

Is this your first r/c, first traxxas?

Has it given you trouble, broken? If so, what?

Do you have any other brushless systems, and how does the VXL compare?

What energy source are you using, lipo, cell count/voltage, nimh, nicad and battery-esc connectors used.

Reason I'm asking is because OrangePedeanaut posted about the rebates and tower coupon deals so I'm very curious as to what the owners think.

 

[justadork]

Not an owner, but a seller of em'

Upgrades needed.
#1 RPM front bumper
#2 RPM Unbreakable Castor Blocks
#3 32pitch spur gear and pinion gear
#4 2mm Aluminum "C" motor mount brace home made
#5 Big Bores or at least the caps
#6 Metal Gear Servo

Simply put, my old clod, my TXT-1, my RC10GT2, my TLT, TL-01, my 18t, my T4, my 20 other cars I've owned all break more than the Pede's which I run more than anything. Now that I'm no longer running a Hobby Store, all I have is my TXT-1, wish I had kept my Pede.

 

[brick64vxl]

very worth it!!! i have owned a vxl pede for about 6 months...supid fast...tons of torque...and tuff. i will say the factory wheelie bar is junk...and ive destroyed the factory body and broke a body mount..but for how i ran it that is amazing! much more durable than anything ive ever owned and ive been into rc since the late 80's..the velineon system is very easy to use and unless you are gonna race and need something specific out of your motor and speed control combo the velineon is hands down the best value for the$$$ im running an 8 cell 3800mah nimh packs and it will beat a savage4.6 nitro truck in a straight line!! im getting ready to do a hpi rush conversion to widen the truck and a FLM extended chassis is in the near future

 

[MLambert19]

Just bought a VXL Rustler, managed to get it for $265 shipped. Since ThunderTech Racing is out of the Outlaw Chassis, and I've never been a fan of the stock Stampede's steering system, I figured I'd give the Rustler a try.

I haven't driven it yet, but upgraded shocks, CVD's, and a handful of other parts are high on my priority list. I'm curious if the GMade Mudrock Beadlocks will hold up to it, as I want to put some more aggressive tires and/or paddles on it.

I've been looking at some $69 8000mah 11.1v 20C 3S2P Lipos on eBay, the numbers all compare to MaxAmps it seems, at half the price. Otherwise I intend to build some 9-cell sub-c packs for it, or buy the $52 4200mah 10.8v ones at Onlybatterypacks.com.

I'd love to hear more feedback on batteries/gearing from people! -Matt

 

[justadork]

Just bought a VXL Rustler, managed to get it for $265 shipped. Since ThunderTech Racing is out of the Outlaw Chassis, and I've never been a fan of the stock Stampede's steering system, I figured I'd give the Rustler a try.

I haven't driven it yet, but upgraded shocks, CVD's, and a handful of other parts are high on my priority list. I'm curious if the GMade Mudrock Beadlocks will hold up to it, as I want to put some more aggressive tires and/or paddles on it.

I've been looking at some $69 8000mah 11.1v 20C 3S2P Lipos on eBay, the numbers all compare to MaxAmps it seems, at half the price. Otherwise I intend to build some 9-cell sub-c packs for it, or buy the $52 4200mah 10.8v ones at Onlybatterypacks.com.

I'd love to hear more feedback on batteries/gearing from people! -Matt

Depending on your intended use, I have found the CVD's to bend compared to the slider set up from Traxxas.

Also look closer at those packs for $69 on the Bay, I looked around and the only 8kmah packs I saw were rated at 10C

And for gearing, back when I had my Pede brushless, I found the lowest gearing was more fun than taller gearing.

 

[william g]

took it out for 2 packs today
First I have to say I was a little disapointed traxxas didn't include even 1 connector. I mean it is a traxxas only thing, and new. I had to cut and solder just to make a test run and or radio check before even bothering to go outside :bang

That said... Outside, bone stock out of box except for conector swap.

Very smooth performance, even at low throttle. I was expecting some chugging from the sensorless VXL system. Couldn't get it to chug not even once.

Halfway through my first battery the left front wheel took off. Glad I had somebody with me because it went way off into the brush, and out of my reach. So I found the grey wheel hex, and headed inside for a pin, and axle nut then back outdoors after checking the rest. 1 more was loose.

So top speed, seemed decent on a 3000, and a 2000 6 cell packs. Not overly impressed with top end, but then again my batts are getting older. Still, it was very smooth, wheelies when pack was new but 1/2 way only after a bump.

So my impression, decent performance, smooth throttle response at any level. Definatly needs good to awesome battery power. It ate the 2 batts up much faster than say my wheely king for example.

The smoothness was what impressed me. Very easy to drive at any speed. I never had a pede run that smooth :drool stock, or modified for that matter. Tire traction was ok on grass and walk paths but on pavement it was easy to slide, and had front push real bad on any surface. They're better than the old pede 2.2's because they're round and more true, but a set of prolines would be much nicer.

Do you need a VXL, well if speed is your thing it can handle the voltage to get you there. But if your only going to run 6 cell packs get/buy the brushed version. Smoothness alone isn't worth the price.

Now to rip it apart, I have plans for the VXL system. :wnk

 

[Orange Pedeanaut]

Well I finally took mine out today for a test run on a 7 cell unmatched 4200... First thing I did of course was give it all it had and the front end came up for over a block! I made a couple 45+ mph runs back and forth in the road (very unstable) and finally the left front came loose and my tire was sitting at the neighbors house a half block away. Since its dark out, ill never find the parts that were shot into outer space...

Very fast, one run got me hooked. Hmm... next, 8 cell!!!!

 

[albinonile]

first impressions

had the original pede and a nitro pede from 8 or 9 years ago or so. Just got the vxl and first run out of the box lost front wheel--hub and pin--found only the wheel--seems likes this happens to alot. I remember the old pede and the nitro pede losing the rear wheels alot--guess I have to get some threadlock. I remember on the old pedes if you tightened the wheel to hard it would bind-is it the same on the new ones?-Also does the vxl come with 5 x 11 bearing up front know--i just ordered the traxxas aluminum front and rear carriers. Was very happy with how smooth it worked if only for a short time. Incredibly fast with a trinity 4200 mah 6 cell. Need to still tighten the slipper down as it would not wheely on factory settings. I think I am going to like this one.
Ben

 

[william g]

yes, looks to be 1150 bearings in front end.

And the axle threads even cranked down real tight don't stick out past the nylon part of the locknut. No binding cranked real tight. Why manufacturers cut the axle thread portion so short is beyond me. Proper fit is at least 1 full thread clear.

 

[albinonile]

ran it again with some threadlock and tightened up the slipper a bit-thing with a 6 cell with wheely at 15 mph no problem--wheelies seem very hard to control-will probably loosen the slipper a bit as it actually seemed to drive a little better without the slipper tightened down

 

[justadork]

I always run a locknut upside down for mine, kinda like all the Losi and AE boys do

 

[william g]

Putting it backwards is wrong too. You'd be fired in industry for it because it won't hold like it was meant to.

Proper bolt, or thread grip is...
at least the diameter of bolt to be amount of threads gripping
so on a 3mm bolt/screw should have at least (minimum) 3mm of full threads gripping.

For a locknut, it must be the same thread grip plus at LEAST 1 full thread clear.

You'll find that on a FAA aircraft mechanics test, and if you mess up on the practicale part you flunk.

Why R/C manufacturers can't follow simple rules that industry does is beyond me. What is a millimeter or 2 extending an axle thread going to hurt or cost?