Gmade Spider Review Part 1 And 2

kjr2

Old Timer
You can find the original write up here: [URL="http://home.comcast.net/~radaich/spider.html"]http://home.comcast.net/~radaich/spider.html[/URL]

This first part of the review concerns assembly and quality of the parts. The second part of the review will be real-world use (rock crawling) and will be posted next weekend after I get electronics installed.

Feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer.





Part One: Building

What You Get

I recieved the Spider crawling kit from GMADE. It is a compelte rolling chassis kit. Required pieces are radio, receiver, battery, electronic speed control, body, type 540 or 550 motors, and shocks. What makes this kit different than ALL the rest of the Clodbuster conversions out there? The GMADE axles! GMADE has produced their own drive axles. They are similar to Clod Buster axles, but are better due to the improvments GMADE has made, which you will see below.


The first thing you notice is the cool flat black box with silver GMADE logo and a factory seal.

Opening the box you find 2 large decal sheets (one black/pink, one silver), a CD with the assembly instructions, and a very neat and organized kit. I was amazed with how carefully every piece was packaged at the factory. All the parts/screws needed for each step are together in a bag. It makes building very easy.



Here you can see one of the awesome chassis plates--they are seperately wraped to prevent wear during shipping:


Here you can see the wheel/tire combo you get with the Spider kit. They are the GMADE Ultrac tires with black & chrome wheels They are packaged two wheels and two tires per package:


Assembly, Chassis

They first thing you notice when you open the chassis is the brilliant finish and awesome machining. The design is very intricate and unique and it's *flawlessly* CNC machined (from 7075 T6 Duraluminum). Chassis assembly is very straightforward. The side plates are held to the radio tray and battery tray (which also serves as a skid plate) with 4M screws. The nuts are held in clever way--they drop into little slots on the radio and battery tray where they cannot move and the screws simply tighten into them. It's really cool. The skid plate is made out of fiberglass and is curved to slide more easily over rocks. The web site doesn't say, but it looks like the radio tray is made of the same fiberglass material. They chassis as pictured below is incredibly light! Notice that the 4M screws that hold the chassis together are recessed for a clean look.




One thing you will notice during every step of building is how well thought out the components of this kit are (you can tell that A LOT of CAD time was involved to design this stuff) and how heavy-duty everything is. In the pic below we have a standard ESP Racing link and ballend from a CLodZilla racing chassis, and on the right is the GMADE 10mm nylon ballend and lower link. GMADE states that a larger ballend gives a wider range of angle for the links to move around which makes sense but also massive ends like these looks cool and I cannot imagine damaging these! The suspension links all have 10mm ends on both sides, while the steering rods use 6.8mm ends.


Assembly, Axles

Ah, the part you've been waiting for! These axles show some similarites to the Tamiya Clod Buster axles, but there are no Tamiya parts used. There are several features added to these to make them superior to the Tamiay Clod axles--

1) they feature adjustable motor mounts that accept 9-20t pinions for wide range of gear ratios(12t pinion gears included)

2) axle mounted servo system for powerful steering and a cleaner look

3) triangulated top-mounted upper-links for maximum supsension articulation

4) O-ring sealed differential gears which can be filled with oil to match your needs

5) complete ball bearing kit is included

6) wheel adapters in both 12mm and 14mm sizes so you can run Clod Buster wheels/tires as well as Maxx/Savage size wheels tires without any extra adapters.

They are also wider than stock Clod Buster gearboxes so no aftermarket wideners are needed.

Here you can see two axle halves. They are made of polycarbonate and are really neat looking. The pics tell the story:



Here are the differential parts. Notice the O-rings to seal the diff on the right:


I opted to install the optional GMADE Diff lockers in place of the gears for maxium traction on rocks:




Here are the gears intalled into the bottom half of the transmission case. The metal axles that go into the diff look like Tamiya parts but are actually much bigger in diameter than the Tamiya parts.


Here is a partially assmebles axle with servo plate mounted:


As with the chassis, assembly was a breeze. If you've assembled Clod Buster axles, you can do these. Very similar. Here are the axles completely assembled with servo plates, motor covers, and bumpers:




12mm and 14mm wheel hexes allow use of many 2.2" wheels, Clod Buster/Juggernaut/TXT wheels while the 14mm hex allows for use of Savage/Maxx wheels and of course the GMADE wheels the kit comes with!


Here is the whole kit assembled. Everything seen in the pics but the shocks is included in the kit:




Here are a couple close-ups of the axles:





Here you can see the mulitiple link mounting positions on the axle mount. I used all the mounting position show in the manual to start. The mounts are made of Nylon to be super strong.




Impressions, so far
Man this thing is AWESOME! Not only do I NOT have any complaints, I can say without a doubt the Spider is the nicest, most well-designed RC truck I've owned. It's truely awesome. The design of the chassis/axles is really neat looking, plus everything was designed with functionality in mind. There are mulitple mounting pionts for the shocks on the chassis AND on the lower links, and there are multiple places to mount the lower links on the axles which make for a lot of adjustablility for the suspension. The quality/finish of the chassis and axle parts is second to none. Nothing needed trimmed or filed or tweaked to fit. One of the coolest things about the truck to me is the skid plate at the bottom of the chassis. It looks really neat with the curved, ribbed design. It (the skid plate) weighs next to nothing in your hand and is SUPER stiff and slick. I also like that the bumpers don't protrude past the tires so they do not affect approach/departure angles but will keep you from bashing in the front of the axles or your steering linkage. I can't wait until next weekend when I get the electronics installed and take it to the rocks!


Part Two: Driving/Rock Crawling coming soon...























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kjr2

Old Timer
Oh yeah, I assembled it in half a day working non-stop (well, only stopping for lunch!). I would say about six hours from opening box to rolling chassis. That includes the time I used to take pics too though...
 

Gimbal

Well-Known Member
Originally posted by kjr2@Sep 2 2006, 05:28 PM
They are also 1"-2" wider than stock Clod Buster gearboxes.
That thing is sweet! Looks like real nice parts.
So since the axles are so wide, I would assume they would not work for a 2.2 class crawler with the 12?" max width? (outer tire to outer tire) I'm curious to see if a negative offset 2.2 rim like a pede rear would fit over the hubs?
Excellent writeup

:truck
 

kjr2

Old Timer
Excellent writeup
Thanks!

As for the 2.2" comp rules, I don't know about that.... I can measure from wheel hex to wheel hex for you tonight when I get home. I don't have any 2.2" wheels to test for you... They are surely wider than stock Clod axles though. This pic is from a dude named Twinset on rccralwer.com (I hope he don't mind I used his pic here):
 

Gimbal

Well-Known Member
...just looking at that comparison pic, I am sure they are too wide. On Clod axles at 12?" the tires stick out maybe 1/2" past the outer hub at the most.
Still sweet axles!
 

kjr2

Old Timer
I haven't directly compared but I think the stock Clod C-Hub and GMADE C-Hub are the same size so a 2.2" should physically fit, even if not allowed by the rules... I'll check it out more closely tonight...
 

kjr2

Old Timer
A couple more things...

The wheel nuts actually take a 5mm hex wrench in the middle that allows you to tighten them (5mm hex wrench included) OR a 11mm socket fits on the outside of the wheel nut... Kinda neat I thought...

Also, the upper link mounts on the axles should be very strong and not break at all. That was my concern after having TXT part break. The nut is not directly below the surface that seperates the nut and screw. That screw is actuall quite long (4x30mm) and extends down where it meets the nut at about the area I marked in red. The nut fits snugly into a hex that is molded into the case (like they do on the bottom axle havles). The area between the axle nut and the top is solild so it shouldn't break or crack...

 

kjr2

Old Timer
I measured a little less than 11.5" from wheel hex to wheel hex, with the 12mm hexes.
 

mcfig

Well-Known Member
How strong do the diff gears look and feel? I'm use to metal, so plastic seems like a bad idea.
 

kjr2

Old Timer
The diffs seemed very strong to me. You're used to metal? You must mean nitro then? My diffs will be tested like crazy next weekend--I installed lockers front and rear so the gears will be under maximum stress...
 

Loaded_Heavy

Formally Breaker 1-9
Damn!!! thats HAWT!!! I like their packaging too, real nice. How much did you put out for all that? those axles are also giving me a whole new thought on it being the right axle for the use of Kongs being it's wider then the stock. Also is the plastic used for the axles and chassis parts a Delrin type plastic? or is it kind of like Pede plastic? it looks a little bit Delrin ish and a little bit Nylon ish, also those links is beafy compared to your standard, real solid looking truck.
 

Gimbal

Well-Known Member
Originally posted by kjr2@Sep 2 2006, 08:28 PM
I measured a little less than 11.5" from wheel hex to wheel hex, with the 12mm hexes.
Thank you sir. I'll definetely be staying tuned for your bash report!
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
looking good :kudo

I really like the quality of junfac and gmade parts. Everything fits so well, and no rework to do makes assembly a breaze.

you have a pm from me too
 

Dagger Thrasher

Well-Known Member
That thing looks *incredible*! Absolutely awesome...I can't wait for Part 2 of your review. If I had the money to build a Clod now, I'd ditch my custom chassis plans straight away and get that kit. Stunning. :drool

Nicw write-up too! ;)
 

kjr2

Old Timer
Breaker 1-9 - The truck is $478 plus shipping. That sounds high at first, but when you add up all the things you get, it's a good price. I was thinking the same thing about Kong tires too! They axles are wider, the wheelbase is long, and the gear ratio is adjustable so it should be able to be done easily! Plus, the GMADE wheels are the right size for Kong tires!!!

The plastics... lets see--the web site states that the axle halves are Polycarbonate, the skit plate is Fiberglass, radio tray looks the same, the bumpers are Xenoy, the axle mounts (where links attach) is Hytrel Nylon, ballends are Nylon, but they don't mention what the gears are made of. I will email them and ask... I thought I had read the gears were Delrin but I can't find that anywhere now...

Spoon - Thanks!

Gimbal - No problem. Lots or crawling pics next weekend!

william g - I got your PM. That is no problem. I wrote this for RCMT so adding it to the review page was my hope...:)

Dagger Thrasher
- It really is very nice. In person is so cool looking. It's lighter than it looks too...
 

kjr2

Old Timer
Couple more things...

I did not use the included body post setup. It comes with a neat, adjustble body post mechansim but I wanted to use side sytle so I did it my way. Here you can see the stock setup:

(entire assembly manual here)
Spider manual (1.14MB)

Body post setup:



And here are a couple of pics I didn't include in my review because they were blurry or too light...


 

4wdmt

Well-Known Member
You did a great job with your 1st part buld up review kjr. Looking forward on your test drive review.

Please run it to the extreme!!! Clear pics and a video will be cool too. Sorry, I am asking too much, lol.
 

Supreme Reign

Well-Known Member
You da man, Kenny! That's hot!

The only thing I don't like is that it's wider than the Clod. I can't get past that. I am so glad to see they got rid of those stupid metal axle braces. You would have though Big T would have done that with their so-called Super-Clodbuster improvements.

That chassis and lower links are tempting.
 
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