Ford F-350 Juggernaut

Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
kjr2 said:
Wow that's an amazing rig. Nice work on the paint. Thanks for.posting your technique. I'm gonna try that method on my next clod body.
Click to expand...
No problem. Thanks for the kind words.

rocpede4x4 said:
Awsome looking juggernaut and maybe when I get some r/c projects done. Ill pull the juggernaut off the shelf and use some of the mods you did to yours.
Click to expand...
Yeah man. Dust it off and it can be made to run reliably if you wish. Just got to beef a few things up is all.

Berman said:
Have any completed pics of this Arco? I've always loved the Jug #1's black theme as opposed to the Jug #2's red. :emot148:
Click to expand...
Sorry. Forgot to post them. They are not the greatest but eventually I'll get around to snapping some photos out in the sun.

Let's see now... The Jugg still needs a new roll bar before it will be complete but here are some photos that show the completed body mounted to the chassis.









Thanks for taking a look. - Arco​
 
rocpede4x4

rocpede4x4

Well-Known Member
I have a Q. Is there any way you can tell how long the spacer is that mounts the cantilever to the juggernaut frame.
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@rocpede4x4
No worries, glad I could help. :)

Well, it is time to finish wiring-up the lights on the ol' Jugg here. New F-350 roll bar has arrived from Tamiya USA. All the parts & pieces from the old stuff has been cleaned-up and are ready to be reinstalled.





Started by cutting the new parts away from the sprue using some trusty curved Lexan scissors. I leave a generous bur on there at this point. After they have been freed, I go back and either finish trimming the parts using my scissors or an e-axcto knife. Everywhere that the extra flashing has been removed, a bare spot is left behind where there is no chrome, so before installation I am going to touch-up all those areas with some Tamiya Chrome Silver brush paint.







Before attempting to assemble the new roll bar, a good tip is to thread all the screws into the plastic. This will make for an easier install. Once all the parts were threaded and ready for installation, I noticed that there is a minor difference between the two different versions of the F-350 parts. hmmm.... The small cap that holds the LEDs in place has to be threaded through the hole on the Jugg parts, while the newer High-Lift version has a slot so that the cap can be removed without having to undo the entire wiring loom. To keep it as close to as original as possible, I reused the Juggernaut parts.





Now that all the wires have been threaded through the LED holders and are all facing the same direction, they were installed.



**PLEASE NOTE** The screws that are used here are very small and can strip easily so an eyeglass repair kit screwdriver with a small set of vise-grips clamped to the shank was used. This set-up provides extra leverage and can be held more securely in one hand while installing the small screws that attach the LEDs.

 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
The online manuals at Tamiya USA are a real good tool to use when wrenching on your Tamiya trucks. Simply type in the name of the kit you are working on and a PDF file with the manual can be found on that models page. I used the one for the Jugg on this build here.



















F-350 rollbar is now properly installed. :)​
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@rocpede4x4
You are too kind. Just doing what I know. Thanks for the compliments on the rebuild/restore and best of luck to you too sir with your future restoration. :)















 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member

TAMIYA

Juggernaut (Ford F-350) Item #58232
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58232


Upgraded Diff Parts - Juggernaut Item #93020
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=93020


Upgraded Center Gear Parts - Juggernaut Item #93021
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=93021

Propeller Joint Set - Juggernaut 2 Item #93022
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=93022
B Parts: 58280/58268/58256 Item #0005760
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=0005760

TAMIYA Hop-Up Options

1150 Sealed Bearing Set 2pc Item #53029
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53029
850 Sealed Ball Bearing (4) Item #53030
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53030
1260 Sealed Bearing/2pcs Item #53065
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53065
Anodized Flange Lock Nuts - 4mm(Gold 5pcs) Item #53161
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53161
Monster Truck Light Set Item #53370
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53370


ESP Hobby Mfg
www.esphobby.com

H.D. TIE-ROD SET W / BALL LINKS PART#ESP061
LWB 4-LINK SUSPENSION KIT PART# ESP062
S.S. DRIVESHAFT EXTENSIONS PART#ESP063
BALL BEARING CANTILEVER KIT PART#ESP066
ANTI-SWAY BAR CONTROL KIT PART#ESP067
WIDE RIDE KIT; CLOD/JUGG PART#ESP033


 
Last edited:
rocpede4x4

rocpede4x4

Well-Known Member
I notice that you shorten the suspension links 5 mm. Just wanted to know if you can measure the links and the wheelbase too. Because ill be making new custom links for juggernaut.
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@rocpede4x4

The WB is 12 & 3/4 inches from king pin to kingpin. The links are 6 & 5/8 of an inch eye to eye. Hope this helps.

Thanks for checking out the build. - Arco
 
joe

joe

ɹoʇɐɹʇsıuıɯpɐ
Site Administrator
Super Moderator
Moderator
great lookin jugg, Arco.
very clean wiring too.
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@joe
Thanks for the kind words. Yes sir, I try and keep the wiring as neat as possible, even though it's something you don't really look at that often. :)

**UPDATE**
2/3/2013

Decided that the ride height was a little too high on the Jugg so I made some mods to the shocks. Started with a set of Trinity #TK5125 Extra Heavy "Low Rider Springs" for Traxxas T-Maxx shocks. To install them you must shorten the shocks overall stroke by installing internal spacers on the shock shaft inside of the shock. The spring kit came with a some of silicone tubing for you to cut to the length you need for your spacers, but I have some plastic spacers from a set of Tamiya shocks, so I decided to use them instead. The Tamiya parts install on the shock shaft, under the shock piston, then the shaft is installed into the shock body. The spacers made the shock 10mm shorter.





Filled and bled the the fronts together, filling them them with the same 25 weight silicone oil from Trinity.





In the picture below you can see the difference between the modified and stock length shocks.



The left rear was modified the same as the fronts but I filled it with 30 weight oil.



The right rear was the last to get modified and then it was filled using 35 weight oil.



The Jugg's new "low rider" stance.



Also made a new rear-steer lockout out of some scrap 3mm carbon fiber plate then bolted it securely into place.



Thanks for taking a look. - Arco​
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@rocpede4x4
Thank you sir.
I test drove it without the body yesterday but I did not make a video, sorry. The backyard is a mess with downed tree limbs from the high winds we had a few days ago. Wrapped a big stick up in the rear tires and it tried to beat the truck so I ended the test and went back inside. Need to clean up the yard before any further runtime or video can happen.

@th67ss
Thanks for the kind words there Tom. Glad you like it.


**UPDATE**
2/4/2013

Shock mods are finished including the installation of the new springs. The shocks are now bolted-on and fully adjusted as well.

TRAXXAS
(X2)#3762 Ultra Shocks (2) Black XX Long w Spacers

Trinity
#TK5125 E/T MAXX "LOW RIDER" SHOCK SPRINGS

HG (Hammand Ghuman Inc.)
(X2)#5212 Alloy Shock Clamps for Tmax/Emax



Installed a Futaba wire extension on the steering servo in preparation for a new receiver.

Futaba
#FUTM3955 (J-SERIES AILERON EXTENSION. 400MM)



Rear-steer lockout installed and adjusted. This set-up is much simpler and stronger than the one I had on there before.



Installed two new Axial Wraith long driveshaft hubs (item #11117) from MIP. The longer hubs give the center splines more contact. The hubs also use 3mm set screws now which were not supplied, but luckily I had some on hand in my parts bin.





MIP (Moore's Ideal Products)
(X2)#8101 MIP for C DRIVE SPLINE FOR AXIAL AX10, SCORPION (5mm output)
(X2)#11117 MIP5mm DRIVE HUB, LONG Axial Wraith (5mm output)










Also changed the gear ratio on the Juggernaut by changing the motors pinion gears from a pair of Tamiya 32 pitch - 15T aluminum, to a pair of (item# RRP-0160) Robinson Racing Products 32 pitch - 16T steel.



RRP (Robison Racing Products)
(X2)#RRP-0160 Pinion Gear 32 Pitch 16 tooth



Used the kit supplied ceramic grease to lightly re-lube the gear-train before reassembly. This specific brand Tamiya grease has been discontinued for individual sale but a similar product is available from Tamiya called "Cera-Grease HG" item# 87099.

Tamiya
item# 87099 - Cera-Grease HG



Thanks for taking a look. - Arco​



 
Last edited:
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@william g
Yeah they are! Brushles power will mow them right up. The aluminum Tamiya pinions that were in there when I bought the truck were 13 tooth and I wanted to see how it ran with the 15's. It go to the top end pretty quick so I figured I'd go up a tooth and test it again. Also have a set of steel 17 tooth pinions if need be.

**2/5/2013**

Tamiya Juggernaut 16 tooth pinion test...

[video=youtube;CAv-6O7l6Lc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAv-6O7l6Lc&list=UUuWnq3wvhHRr5Di5gyckDCw&index=1[/video]

Thanks for taking a look. - Arco​
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top