Ford F-350 Juggernaut

Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Juggernaut 1999, 2000, 2001

criminallyclod said:
Such a good idea! Loving the updates, keep em comin.

-Willis
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jonnyboy said:
looking good how do you like the kit
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jonnyboy said:
looks good lot of time and work there.
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Thanks jonnyboy. Never drove a stock Jugg. The ESP set-up, as designed, is not very impressive performance-wise. Neat looking truck... just needs a lot of work to make the suspension perform. Still not finished tweaking things.



Let's see now...

The way that the 4-link was designed originally is an improvement over the stock set-up, but it still leaves a lot to be desired. It has a ton of torque-twist and the suspension is way too soft. This, plus the cantilevers, equals a ton of body roll. :rolleyes The suspension needs some tuning to say the least. The chassis mounted, pushrod and bell-crank steering needs to go too. Nothing but bump-steer.:trk​



There are some other changes I want to make too, so gone are the old beat-up chassis plates as well as the original stripped front and rear frame cross-members. I also swapped out the old sway bar bushings.









 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Juggernaut 1999, 2000, 2001







The first mod was to shorten all the suspension links 5mm, then mount them in-board on the chassis.​



Next, I swapped out the Jugg gear covers on the axles in favor of a set of TXT-1 gear covers that have a triangulated upper 4-link mount. Also shortened the cantilever pushrods lowering the ride height 5mm.







Relocated the steering servo onto the front axle also using a new Jugg bumper plate, some New Era billet aluminum lower bumper brackets, along with a steering relocation kit and servo mounts from New Era.



 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Juggernaut 1999, 2000, 2001



Went ahead and rebuilt the Traxxas T-Maxx shocks too using Trinity 35 weight oil, Traxxas internal travel limiters, Trinity heavy progressive rate springs, and adjustable aluminum spring clamps from HG.









The driveshafts no longer fit, so the Jugg has a set of telescoping driveshafts on order too. Back to waiting on parts.:p​

Thanks for looking fellas.

-Arco
 
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joe

joe

ɹoʇɐɹʇsıuıɯpɐ
Site Administrator
Super Moderator
Moderator
looks great, Arco!

every update, it gets better and better.
:tmb
 
william g

william g

Retired
Moderator
have you checked out the CPE faux beadlock clod rings? You've done so much to this I think that'll really help it POP. :tmb
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
joe said:
looks great, Arco!

every update, it gets better and better.
:tmb
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Thanks joe. Little by little. It's getting there.

th67ss said:
X2

Really like how you detailed the wheels:tmb
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Thanks. Painted them with a brush. Glad you like them.

littlewhitemaxx said:
coming along nice. i wish they would re release the jugg they are getting harder to find.
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IDK if Tamiya will ever re-re the Jugg. They could I guess, but the mold for the body was modified for the High-lift and now has larger wheel openings. Hmmmm... speaking of re-re's. Just saw this one today. Pretty cool IMHO. :tmb



william g said:
have you checked out the CPE faux beadlock clod rings? You've done so much to this I think that'll really help it POP. :tmb
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Yes sir, I have seen them, but i have never tried a set. I always thought hose wheels could use a set. There are a lot of chips and road rash on the beads of those old wheels too. Actually I have a brand new set of Jugg wheels and tires that I've never bolted on until today. The Imex Pullers were hitting the front steering/lower bumper braces at full steering throw so I swapped them out.

Finally went outside and did a test run of the Juggernaut today. Now the Jugg can actually handle some rough stuff and keep going.​



Well, le'ts see... the telescoping driveshafts (MIP Part#8101 for C- Drive Spline for AX-10 5mm output) arrived today and I wasted no time assembling them, then installing them. Put together a slide-show detailing the assembly of the MIP CVD driveshafts. Used Mip CVD lube, Blue Locktite, and a length of heat-shrink tubing. The rotating surfaces only need the lightest coat of grease. You also need to be sparring with the locktite. There are a total of 8 set-screws, so double check that they are all tight. The heat-shrink tubing is on there as a sleeve to hold the CVD together just-in-case one of the set-screws does happen to come loose.















http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157626527778540/show/

After installing the new shafts, I test ran the Jugg to see if all the mods I made will work together. By the time I got everything together, the battery was half dead, but I did manage to get a two-minute test in. Pretty happy with the performance. A lot more fun to drive now.

[video=youtube;9JkNTLikYmA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JkNTLikYmA[/video]​
 
T

th67ss

Well-Known Member
I said it the reader ride forum and I'll say it here, that thing looks great:tmb

What is the blue thingie hanging of the back, lights connector?
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Many thanks th67ss for following the resto and build-up of the old Jugg. :) Glad you like it.

th67ss said:
What is the blue thingie hanging of the back, lights connector?
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Yes, it is a part of the :tami Factory Hop-Up Option LED light kit for the Juggernaut. The Blue block is the teminal on the relay cable that allows all the LED cables from the roll bar lights to be ganged together and connected. The relay cable is mounted to the bed hinge so the bed can still tilt allowing access to the battery.









 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
**UPDATE**

Finished priming the cab, bed, and tail gate for the 1999 Jugg with Tamiya SURFACE PRIMER L WHITE #87044. Assembled all the body panels to check their fit before spraying them with TS-14 Black Lacquer.

















New M Parts Tree #0115249











No. 58232


Thanks for taking a look - Arco
 
Arcocustom

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Sprayed the cab and bed on the inside and out with Tamiya TS-14 lacquer spray paint.











After allowing the paint to dry for a week I wet-sanded the body panels smooth using 1500 grit sandpaper. Once the paint was nice ant flat it was buffed back to a mirror gloss using Tamiya FINE #87069 followed by Tamiya FINISH #87070 polishing compounds.



Painted and installed the grille and bumpers. Also installed the Tamiya headlamps using the hardware provided in the option kit.



Next the original windshield was polished and bolted in. Then I applied the decals starting with the logos on the doors and hood of the cab.









Installed the freshly detailed cab onto the chassis remembering to make sure and plug the headlights into the switch harness. The fully polished bed was then installed before going any further to ensure the decals would line up straight once fully assembled. Now the bed can be aligned to the cab and the remaining stripes can be applied using the cab as a guide. :nice:







Thanks for taking a look - Arco​
 
kjr2

kjr2

Old Timer
Wow that's an amazing rig. Nice work on the paint. Thanks for.posting your technique. I'm gonna try that method on my next clod body.
 
rocpede4x4

rocpede4x4

Well-Known Member
Awsome looking juggernaut and maybe when I get some r/c projects done. Ill pull the juggernaut off the shelf and use some of the mods you did to yours.
 
B

Berman

Well-Known Member
Have any completed pics of this Arco? I've always loved the Jug #1's black theme as opposed to the Jug #2's red. :emot148:
 
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