Ford F-350 Juggernaut

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member






JUGGERNAUT
#58232

Well, here we go on another restoration project of mine. My plans are to give this truck a good once-over and restore the body to a box-art state if possible. The truck arrived already retrofitted with all-new Jugg 2 running gear and ball bearings. The original owner was also nice enough to include the original box and manual, as well as all of the original drivetrain and suspension parts. Tamiya's optional R/C lightbulb set has also been installed. In addition to the factory hop-ups, the suspension has also been modified using almost every "JUGGULAR" upgrade made by ESP Racing. After reading an old article about the release of the original Jugg, I decided to go vintage with the electronics and used an old Tekin Titan ESC and two handwound, 14 turn single, brushed motors from Phantom. To complete the truck I also installed an R162JE receiver and an S3010 servo from Futaba.









Copyrights prevent anyone from showing RCCA images http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5324334164_ecf29f3813_b.jpg



Thanks for taking a look.
-Arco
 

TXT-2.0

Mod Wrapper
sweet Jay ! i noticed in you thread in the readers ride sec you mentioned the torque twist ...... are you stuck on leaving the cantalivers ? i know with my txt when i ditched them and went vertical it fixed 90 % of it

but im sure you already know that lol
 

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@TXT2.0
Thanks Tom.

Just trying to keep the Jugg original to that time period I reckon.

Ordinarily, the cantilevers would be the first thing that I deleted, but yeah, I'm going to fiddle with them before I give up on them entirely. There are a few things that I have in mind that might help. IDK... maybe it needs some limiting straps. The instructions do state that the T-Maxx shocks need to be built with some heavier weight oil in addition to a stiffer spring pre-load. I did install a set of HG alloy shock clamps, but it's gonna need a whole lot more than that. Waaaaay too much articulation the way it sits now... :ack

sweet ride sir! looks the part!
Thanks roog909.

Feeling pretty fortunate to have a fairly nice piece like this one after taking a pass on one a decade ago.
 

Brian34

Well-Known Member
Jay,

I hope you are aware of the drivetrain issues that plagued the Jugg.
I used to have one.

As a side note, I have a set of Jugg tires in case you want/need them.
 

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
@Brian34

Actually, I may be interested in those wheels and tires. :tmb

Yes sir, item #58232 was actually discontinued because of the weak drivetrain. When the second version of the Jugg was released in 2000, there had been some major changes made. I think Tamiya sent out care packages to fix all the issues with the original truck's weak spots. Thanks for the heads up Brian, but I pretty much knew what to expect. Actually, this truck came to me already upgraded to Jugg 2 specs and the parts still appear to be brand new. I even have all the original unbroken drivetrain parts.





Well, I did go through basically checking all the fasteners on it anyway and that's when I noticed the truck still had the original driveshafts. :ack They had not been upgraded yet. Thankfully, some new Jugg 2 units were floating around inside the box as well.



A couple of set screws and installed!


Thanks again for taking a look fellas.
-Arco
 

Supreme Reign

Well-Known Member
This is soooo making me miss my Jugg. Ahh, I never experienced such joy building something. Now it's disassembled in pieces:-(
 

Brian34

Well-Known Member
@Brian34

Actually, I may be interested in those wheels and tires. :tmb...
Just so you know, I had taken the jugg wheels, and drilled them to use with CPE wideners, with the intent of running them on my Ground Pounder, which I did for short time. The wheels are dismounted from the tires.. Let me know when/if you'd be interested.
 
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Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
Just so you know, I had taken the jugg wheels, and drilled them to use with CPE wideners, with the intent of running them on my Ground Pounder, which I did for short time. The wheels are dismounted from the tires.. Let me know when/if you'd be interested.
Thanks again Brian. If the they're still in good condition, I'd be interested in the tires, but the wheels won't be of much use for me I'm afraid. Would you be interested in making a trade? I have a new set of Clod tires that I could swap for them.

-Jay

This is soooo making me miss my Jugg. Ahh, I never experienced such joy building something. Now it's disassembled in pieces
Yes sir, the Jugg is a pretty neat kit. Almost bought one 10 years ago, but the weak drive train was a big problem and I passed on it. Always liked the look of the body though, so a decade later, I finally broke down and got one. :tami
 
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Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
**UPDATE**

Started the process of stripping the paint off the cab... what a chore!



So how did it get to this point? Well, Due to the thickness of the paint, I needed to use some 60 grit sandpaper and a give it a good scrubbing to "open up" the paint's surface. How much clear do you reckon is on there to hit it with 60 grit and not burn through? A lot.











After rough sanding the body. I immersed it in a bath of DOT 3 Brake Fluid.



There is roughly a gallon of the mess in that container. It definitely works. This stuff will tear the hide off dang near anything, so extreme care must be used when attempting to do this.



After a few hours of sitting in the tub, some wrinkling began to appear...



...time to break out a single-edged razor blade and start scraping.



The blade has been dulled using the same 60 grit sandpaper, making sure to round the edges so it will not gouge or dig in to the plastic. At this point you are basically chiseling the softened paint off with the blade.



The soaking and scraping regimen needs to be repeated a few times, but it does do the trick.





Here is what the bed looks like after the same brake fluid bath, a little sanding, and some primer.


Details on how to block sand and prime the cab to match the bed are next.

Thanks for taking a look,
Arco
 
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TXT-2.0

Mod Wrapper
man Jay that is a ton of work :shk awesome job ! i have to say the time and patience you have is up there , but thats why all your builds are awesome :tmb
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
As long as you maintain proper sway bars,
cantilevers do not "cause" twist.
But since they multiply your suspension travel, they need to have more spring tension, and thicker oil then a straight shock set-up.
Cantilevers do the same thing as putting the shock on the 4 links.
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
This is going to be an interesting (re)build. Replicating what was a fun build, but ending in a nightmare for me. I had a Jugg1 and tamiya did not GIVE you the upgrade package to fix the engineering faults. No, instead they wanted 30 bucks to purchase the fix to correct a serious design and engineering flaw.

Sorry I had to remove your image, RCCA has been very critical in the past and threatened us with lawyers for allowing RCCA page scans or pictures.

The fix had new axle cases and top shaft w/ bevels a new transmission case and some trans parts. The ''care'' packages were a couple bevels and a driveshaft same as what was in a kit originaly.
 

Brian34

Well-Known Member
Thanks again Brian. If the they're still in good condition, I'd be interested in the tires, but the wheels won't be of much use for me I'm afraid. Would you be interested in making a trade? I have a new set of Clod tires that I could swap for them.

-Jay



Yes sir, the Jugg is a pretty neat kit. Almost bought one 10 years ago, but the weak drive train was a big problem and I passed on it. Always liked the look of the body though, so a decade later, I finally broke down and got one. :tami
Sure ! I'll trade for Clod tires..
 

Arcocustom

Well-Known Member
man Jay that is a ton of work :shk awesome job ! i have to say the time and patience you have is up there , but thats why all your builds are awesome :tmb
Thanks for the kind words there Tom. I try...:)

As long as you maintain proper sway bars,
cantilevers do not "cause" twist.
But since they multiply your suspension travel, they need to have more spring tension, and thicker oil then a straight shock set-up.
Cantilevers do the same thing as putting the shock on the 4 links.
Yes sir, I have some work to do on those shocks.

This is going to be an interesting (re)build. Replicating what was a fun build, but ending in a nightmare for me. I had a Jugg1 and tamiya did not GIVE you the upgrade package to fix the engineering faults. No, instead they wanted 30 bucks to purchase the fix to correct a serious design and engineering flaw.

Sorry I had to remove your image, RCCA has been very critical in the past and threatened us with lawyers for allowing RCCA page scans or pictures.

The fix had new axle cases and top shaft w/ bevels a new transmission case and some trans parts. The ''care'' packages were a couple bevels and a driveshaft same as what was in a kit originaly.
I was scanning everything that day. :tong Didn't really think about it. Was just showing where one might find some info on the original Jugg. The ideas, and or factual information conveyed in their book is not protected. Stuff like "Final Drive Ratio", "overall weight", "transmission gear ratio", ETC. The issue has photos of the original input bevel gears on the axles, as well as set-up tips for the steering, and suggestions for electronics to keep the truck period correct. I guess I should have said what issue it was, rather than showing what issue it was. Better safe, than sorry, I reckon. My apologies for that. Thanks for the heads-up.

As for the weak drivetrain on the original. That was the word on the street when I went to buy one and my LHS advised me not too make the purchase. That Box-art was calling me though. :tami This truck here came to me with all Jugg 2 running gear, so I did not get to experience the quick destruction of the original driveline. :-( Thanks for the clarification about the care package too sir. Did not know that...

Sure ! I'll trade for Clod tires..
Thank you for the reply. I sent you a PM.

Thanks again for taking a look fellas.
-Arco
 
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