First Impressions of the new E-Revo with Track Time Added!

Digger

R.C. Alley
While looking over the truck, some things stand out that are worth mentioning. Keep in mind I am a track owner/operator, so my opinions are mostly biased towards racing, especially indoor racing...





One of the first things that struck me is the thickness of the body. This body is definately thicker than previous Traxxas lids I've had in the past. This should improve durability a lot, which is good :tmb, because with the wheelbase and the distance from the front to rear body posts, it doesn't look like very many aftermarket bodies will fit :-(... The body mounts look like they can be adjusted higher or lower, but the body on mine came factory as low as it will mount while still clearing the battery compartment doors. Any lower and the battery doors would push the sides of the body outwards.

It came with a cool 4 channel AM rx with 2 channel 1 slots(for the two steering servos) :tmb. Keep in mind if you plan on replacing the radio gear like I do, you'll need a "Y" harness for the steering channel to split the single jack to the two plugs. In the box with the truck was also a standard Traxxas TQ2 two channel transmitter. If there is an optional 2 speed kit for this truck, you will need a transmitter upgrade at least to be able to shift gears.:reye

Since the two 550 Titan motors are pointing in different directions, the front one is actually a reverse rotation unit. While I like the lower COG of the new motor placement, I don't like having one of them reverse rotation. :bang This will make replacement a little more difficult as you'll have to find either motors with 0 degree timing or matching forward and reverse sets. :bang

Most of the screws are hex-cap, which is MUCH nicer than the old standard phillips-head hardware. Here and there are still some occasional phillips head screws, but most of the important ones are hex-head...

A couple cool things I like about the tranny would be the gear cover that only has 1 screw to install/remove it and they incorporated a way to lock the spur externally so you can accurately adjust the slipper through the rubber plug in the gear cover without removing the whole cover. Just under the front motor is the end of the spur shaft protruding through the case by 1/4" or so with a hole through it. It looks like the emaxx shift shaft. You simply stick one of the included hex wrenches through the hole to effectively lock the spur shaft in place while you adjust the slipper nut. Great idea!:tmb

The truck includes the "P2" rockers and springs already installed on the truck as well as the "long travel" rockers and springs to change to if you want, along with any required spacers needed. There's also a maximum travel steering link included in case you want more steering than it has stock. It also came with a full compliment of tools, including shock wrenches, turnbuckle wrench, hex wrenches, 4-way nut driver, etc...

The steering setup is pretty slick, too. It has an adjustable central saver built into the linkage that spans both servos and the servos are connected in with fixed horns and links. This looks to be WAY better than the Emaxx's original setup with the bellcranks and servo-mounted spring saver that caused lots of slop and drag on the steering...

The wing is pretty cool. It's angle is adjustable and the material it's made of feels very forgiving, like a rubberized plastic, so it should survive several hits. It looks like if you want to go wingless, you also end up rear bumperless as well unless you don't mind the wing uprights sticking up behind the body just so you can keep the bumper.

I really like the battery compartments, too. No body clips or other loose pieces to lose, just snap-shut doors. Big vents for cooling airflow and internal adjustable pack stops to fit almost any battery configuration you could want.:tmb

Also this has to be one of the stiffest chassis I have seen. Go ahead and grab the front and rear ends and try to twist them in opposite directions. I'll bet you can't make it flex. Unlike almost every maxx I've had... This has to be good for the suspension, making it do ALL the work so that any adjustments you make affect every aspect of the handling.

I really can't wait to try this thing out, but I have been so busy lately that all I've gotten to do is look it over and drool on it. LOL! Don't worry, though... it WILL see track time wednesday night, so expect a reply with all of my experiences with running it...
 
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Digger

R.C. Alley
One more thing, Friday night fresh out of the box I lined it up next to a nitro Revo. The E-Revo is almost an inch longer in wheelbase than it's nitro predecessor. Most of the suspension looks the same, so just about anything made for the nitro Revo's suspension should fit the E-Revo as well.:tmb
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
Yeah, but that was the old 2.5 nitro revo that was that short, the 3.3 is longer.
And all the revos have had that kind of steering set-up.
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
That may be true, but being involved with indoor carpet racing, I had no prior experience with ANY Revo since they were never electric unless you converted a nitro one. All I have to compare it to is what shows up at the track or my own experience with the Emaxx. The Revo's steering setup blows away the maxx's setup, no matter how many nitro revos they've used it on...
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Tonight I got to spend some quality track time with my new E-Revo.

I charged up my race packs(6 cell 4200mah matched) and threw 8 AA's into the stock transmitter. The class this will race in has a 12 cell limit, so I swapped the battery brackets around to hold my twin 6 cell packs nicely in the very roomy battery comparments. With how much room there is on each end of my 6 cell packs, there looks like almost room for 8 cell flat packs. I didn't measure, but if you pulled out the foam pad and all of the brackets, I bet it would fit.

Anyways, I went out and ran a few laps on the road course in bone-stock trim. the handling was good, the alignment was great and the suspension action was pretty soft with lots of squat on acceleration, nose diving on hard braking and with the stock rims and tires it didn't really like it when I cranked on the steering wheel. The stock tires, at least on my track, can best be described as grippy and tippy. Time to switch the tires...

The tires that have been proven as the absolute best on my track have to be the GRP(formerly TRC) Park tires. They provide very good grip while still allowing just enough slip to make the handling incredibly stable and predictable. The only mounted up set of Parks I had handy was the set on my race Emaxx, and they are glued to Proline dish wide-offset rims. I wasn't sure about adding the wide offset rims since the Revo is wider than a maxx already, but with the added wheelbase of the revo, it looks good and works well.

I slapped the Parks on the Revo and took it out for a few more laps. Since the Park tire/dish rim combo is lighter and slightly shorter than the stock tires, I picked up a bunch of acceleration on the road course. Apparently the E-Revo is a little overgeared for the track, at least for the tight, technical road course layout which is the class course for this truck. Handling improved some. At least I was heading in the right direction!

After a few laps, I started to realize that the truck was bottoming out on the ramps. Not so much on landing, but on takeoff it would slap the ramp. I bumped up the ride height to the inner holes at both ends and took a few more laps with it. That cured the ramp slap, but it became clear that I still had a little bit much body roll for my taste. Next trip into the pits and I moved the rear inner upper hingepins to the lower holes to increase the roll center. This helped, but wasn't enough, so I brought it in and did the same thing to the front as well. Keep in mind that moving the inner hingepins on the upper arms also requires you to adjust the outer ends of the tierods where they connect to the knuckles to keep bump steer in check. There's a chart in the manual that shows you how to match the spacers at the tierod ends to the upper hingepin hole selection, depending on what caster you have. Very handy!

I took it back out on the track in this trim and it worked better. By this time the other people at the track had changed it over to the oval, so the rest of my testing was done on the oval. The truck would blast down the straights just as fast or faster than my race emaxx in second gear.(you might not know it, but my race emaxx was reigning 4wd drags champion at every MJ or WMB event I entered it in but one, and that was with 12 cells and my normal lap racing gearing, just in second). Speed-wise I'd say it is very quick and actually from the way it was spooling up on the oval, I think it's overgeared for the road course and I will be putting smaller pinions on it. I don't have any way to measure it's actual speed in MPH, but that doesn't matter to me anyways, what matters to me is matching it's acceleration to the course I will be racing it on. Maybe it has to do with the opposed facing motors or maybe it's the internal gears in the tranny, but this thing just sounds MEAN as it accelerates hard. It's not noisy, it just has a low whirr that sounds downright evil, especially as it's coming up behind you! Definately intimidating to the other trucks in the class! LOL!
:burn

Before I started messing with the steering, I figured I better put my DSM radio gear in it first. There's no sense setting up the steering with the stock radio since I was planning on replacing it anyways. I pulled out the stock 4 channel rx and replaced it with my DSM 3 channel rx. I had to use a "Y" adapter for channel 1 to split the signal to the 2 steering servos, but it still tucked inside the waterproof receiver box. The DSM rx I used had such a short antenna wire that by the time I routed it through the cable housing of the rx box, I had less than 1-1/2" of wire outside the box, not even enough to route through the antenna tube mount that's built into the rx box. I unplugged the motors from the EVX2 and ran through setup to match the EVX2 to the DSM radio and I ran into a little snag. It would not program reverse for some reason. I found out that the EVX2 didn't like the factory default BRM setting of 50 on my DX3 transmitter. I had to set BRM to 100 for it to set right.(BRM is panic brakes, or the percentage of total brake travel on this radio). Once I had that figured out, it programmed just fine and worked flawlessly.

I flipped the truck over on it's lid and set the steering travel to it's mechanical limits with the stock steering stop. Then back out to the track for some more laps. It was difficult to tell on the oval if I have enough steering for the road course, but it looks promising. I don't think I will need to install the max steering bracket that came with it. I had equal turning radius in both directions and could U-turn in just about 5-6 feet. Much tighter if I tapped the brakes to whip the back end around.

Overall I am very happy with this truck. It is everything I expected and more. I still have some more tuning to do to it, along with a small shopping list of parts to order, but it's getting there. It can already hang with my race emaxx if driven carefully, but still needs some tweaks to make it the best it can be. I will be ordering new rims for the new set of Parks I have for it as well as the P3 rockers/pushrods and stiffer springs. I definately think the stock springs are way too soft for it once you actually install batteries. They seemed stiff enough without the batteries, but once I put the batteries in, it drooped over 2/3rds of the way to the ground, which is why I had to jack up ride height some. Stiffer springs should fix that.

I will keep adding to this thread as I spend more time with this truck. Stay tuned for next week's installment! LOL!
 

4wdmt

Well-Known Member
Wow. That was a novel but informative as well. I don't race, but all your inputs about this E-Revo will be very helpful.

I'll be waiting for the next installment. :tmb
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Yeah, I realized that after I had it all wrote down... Sorry for the book! LOL! But hopefully someone finds it useful...:)
 

B.M.T.

Well-Known Member
Interesting... Thank you.

That bottoming on ramps is a Revo thing. Mine used to do that, too.
I think it's part of why they don't fly as well as a Maxx. The suspension works too well, and it tries to absorb the ramp, so the chassis is unloading unevenly in flight, that results on some hairy rides...
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Tonight I got to spend a little more time with it. I mounted up a brand new set of Park tires with proline dish rims and swapped in the P3 rockers/pushrods. It seemed to be doing a little better on the road course, but was still unloading too much, so I changed to 50wt oil in all 4 shocks. This seemed to help a little, but didn't put much of a dent in the unloading. The next heaviest oil I had was 70wt, so I refilled the shocks with that and that helped a lot.

Next I started playing with preload to get the steering to push a little more. I almost had it where I wanted it and ran out of threads on the front shocks, so I swapped on the next stiffer springs(oranges). I kept cranking more and more preload until I had the truck pushing just enough in the turns. Handling is almost there for what I want, but not all the way there.

Right now it's sitting a little nose-high for my tastes, so I was thinking about going one step stiffer on the front springs with less preload to get the front ride height back down without losing stiffness. That and I am going to be trying out the swaybar kit. I know I could just slap on some wide offset rims and probably not need the swaybars, but I like how the steering response is now, the way the factory intended and if I widen out the stance the steering will suffer. Plus with the stock width, it's not only easier for other people to pass me on the tight road course, but it's also easier for ME to pass THEM! LOL!
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Okay, I might be a little slow sometimes... LOL!

I just realized that initially I moved the outer ends of the pushrods to the inner holes to increase my ride height before I started playing with oil and springs. I shouldn't need to swap stiffer springs up front from where I am now, I can just move the pushrods up front to the outer hole to bring the front end back down without affecting my spring rate, progressive rate or damping. I love this truck! LOL! I'll have to try that friday night and see what happens. I'll report back what I find out.
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
I've had 70wt in mine for a while now, and well as the orange, and gold springs.

I tried the sway bar, not really what I wanted.

Still bottoms on the ramp too easy. Causing extreme nose diving.
 

Mo'

400 Lux
Ball Racing:


Sounds like you are in major need of a rocker change. Have you tried the P3 setup? It's the stiffest of the bunch, too stiff for most people but it sounds like you need something really firm. I know the guys around here run the P2 set with 55 wight oil along with the same springs you have and have no bottoming issues on even the biggest jumps. Also if your running the long travel or P1 rockers that will be the issue.. they turn the truck to mush. P2 is really as low as you can go without it turning into a yard bashing suspension setup.
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Mo, he stated in another thread that he's running the long travel setup.

Tonight I played with it a little more before registration and got it set up a little better. I have green springs up front(the old rears) and golds in the back, P3 rockers and pushrods, lowest ride height up front, middle ride height in the rear, 70wt oil all around and 15 degrees of caster(laid all the way back). With the preload I have set, this lets the truck sit level when loaded with batteries and it lets me whip it into the corners hard, like my maxx, without flipping. I still can't go as hard into the corners as I can with the maxx, but it's a lot better now. I still have the swaybar kit to try out as well, maybe early next week. The truck only bottoms on the ramps if I get a big run up to them and hit them really fast, and even then it only just barely touches the ramp and lands like a cat. I'm liking this truck more and more...:tmb
 

Mo'

400 Lux
sorry to clutter up your thread Neil, but this is some useful knowledge.


Ball Racing.. your issue lies in the long travel rockers. They are really only useful for a basher/yard racer. They are far too soft and honestly dotn even offer much more travel. Pitch them in the toolbox and throw the P2's on there. I guarantee you will see instant improvement.


As Digger said, with the proper rockers and shock oil setup you will be golden without having to crank your preload on your springs down so far and kill the trucks handling. I imagine thats also killing your cornering running so stiff to compensate for the slushyness of the long travel setup.




BTW Neil.. all the talk of your ERevo pushes me closer to the edge of buying one every day... Damn you! :)
 

Ball Racing

Well-Known Member
Mo, he stated in another thread that he's running the long travel setup.
No, I never said I was running the long travel set-up.
If I did, please find it for me, I must have been dizzy or something:willy

It's on the P2's it came with, 70wt oil, and orange, and gold springs.
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
I must have mis-read. I swear I saw where you said that first thing you installed the max travel steering stop and the long travel rockers, but all I can find now is the steering stop. Sorry for any confusion, I must have been dizzy or something! LOL!

I added the P3's, green(F) and gold(R) and 70 wt.

Mo, my setup seems kinda stiff up front, but doesn't bounce on landings and finally has enough push to whip into the corners pretty hard. I was surprised that I had to stiffen the front up almost to the same as the back just to get what I wanted out of it. In fact if I would have had access to another pair of green springs, I probably would have added them up front without changing the rear, which would have left me with greens all around...
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
Spent a little more quality time with my E-Revo tonight and dialed it in for the road course. I now have it set up very well, darn close to perfect for my driving style at least.

Here's what it took, but keep in mind, your mileage may vary since everyone drives different and on different terrain...

I have the upper arms mounted to the lower holes on the bulkheads at both ends. I have it set at 5 degrees of caster. Toe and camber are still factory default. I'm running green springs up front(the stock rear springs) and gold springs in the rear with the P3 rocker/pushrod set. 70wt shock oil in all 4 shocks with stock pistons. Ride height is all the way down up front and in the middle holes rear. 18 tooth pinions. I'm also running Proline Velocity dish rims(stock offset) with GRP Park tires. Everything else is stock.

Here's what she looks like now:




Just for comparison's sake I threw a pair of packs in my Emaxx and took it out for a couple laps. I couldn't even keep it on the track! And I just raced it less than a month ago and did very well with it, too... It just seems too short, too squirrly now...

And I can remember telling people that I dropped most of the other classes I used to race in because none of my other trucks could even dream of handling like my emaxx, so no other truck was much fun to try to race with anymore. After tonight, I can see that the Revo is lightyears ahead of my old emaxx and I hate to say it, but I think I might sell my maxx and get another E-Revo to set up for bashing...:tmb
 
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MTADDICT

Well-Known Member
I myself had a chance to drive Digger's setup and I can say this thing is on RAILS!:burn

I'm looking forward to getting one setup basically the same way... it drove great for my style also.

Job well done Neil... he has put a lot time into this setup and it has paid off.

Heck, last night, he must have changed/tweaked the setup 4 or 5 times... just small steps to dial it in more.

Thanks for letting me drive it and help with some input... it was fun.:tmb

-ST
 

4wdmt

Well-Known Member
Thank you for sharing your set-up Digger. I may not able to use every tip since I don't race. But at least I know what a single tweak will do in the ER.

Your ER is looking mean and fast. Just keep your E as the basher :tong.
 
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