Finally took the plunge

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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the compliments guys. I'm really pleased with how the wheels turned out. I think they'll look great once I get the rim blended in and painted.
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. No vids yet. In fact, I'm ashamed to say I haven't even run it yet (lol). I'm waiting on some hardware to come in so I can add a spacer to the upper links, and get the caster set back right. I'm also considering converting it to tubular links for a little more realistic look, but I may hold off on that and run it a little first. I've also got to disassemble the shocks and lube up the o-rings with some Shock Slime. Other than adding springs to the inside, they are stock, and they want to stick really bad. Hopefully the slime will cure that.
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
A little update on the truck. I got the wheels repainted and installed back in the tires, and made my 4-link bars. I kept the wheelbase the same as the stock links with the crawler axle mounts (right about 11"). Also trying to close the deal on another body. I still need to install the driveshafts and make some anti-sway bars. What size wire are you guys using for the sway bars that mount on the lower 4-link bars?



 
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rammmit

Well-Known Member
Great job so far, cant wait to see what you have in store.

May I ask, how long did you make your links and what did you make them out of?

11" is right where I would like to get my sons WK so his Monster Mutt body looks more at home.

Again great job.




Jeremy
 
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Pungohboy

Well-Known Member
That really looks good with the new 4 link bars. I would be interested in measurements if you have them. I have a new WK project heading my way.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
rammmit said:
Great job so far, cant wait to see what you have in store.

May I ask, how long did you make your links and what did you make them out of?

11" is right where I would like to get my sons WK so his Monster Mutt body looks more at home.

Again great job.




Jeremy
Click to expand...
At first I had the stock links in place with the Crawler King axle mounts. This puts the wheelbase right at 11". The credit goes to JohnnyShore and his Bounty Hunter (now Digger) build. If you buy the crawler mounts, they come with a few other misc pieces, and in that is a longer front steering link. I shortened it slightly to match up with the longer wheelbase. I had to drill a new hole down through it, because the portion I cut off got rid of the hole. I just drilled it slightly undersized so the metal steering rod would cut new threads. As for the top links, you'll need to cut about a 3/8" spacer to put in between the link and the axle mount. You'll also need about a 3x30mm screw to put it back in place.

As for the new 4-links, I wanted something that looked more like a 1:1. Here's what I used.

I used the Traxxas LXHGB7 rod ends. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7&P=M
The ball is 3mm just like the WK, and the body takes 4mm threads. I ordered a 3 meter stick of 4mm rod from McMaster, along with 3ft of 1/4" x 0.035 wall aluminum tubing to make the links. The aluminum tubing slides right over the 4mm rod perfect. Here's the dimensions on the links. I wrote all this down because I have to duplicate this for my sons when I get mine ironed out.

Lower links: 4mm rod cut to 3-3/4", aluminum sleeve cut to 2-15/16"
Upper links: 4mm rod cut 3-1/4" (+ another 1/64 or 1/32), aluminum sleeve cut to 2-7/16"
The Traxxas rod ends aren't quite as wide as the stock ones, so I also cut about a 1/16 to 1/8" long piece of the aluminum tubing to take up the extra space.


I found on a crawler forum that the little triangular axle link mounts from a TLT work perfect for the upper 4-link mount. No mods required. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGKG9&P=7


This puts the wheelbase right back at 11". There were a few little tricks/hurdles to overcome to make the links work. The bottom crossmemeber where the stock lower links attach has the ball made right into it. I used my Dremel to cut most of ball away so that the crossmember fits back in place snug with the Traxxas rod ends on each side. Then I just put the stock screws back in to hold it in place.


The top links are a little more tricky. There's not a lot of clearance between the new rod ends and the tranny on the front side of truck. I started with 3x16mm screws that I had to shorten to clear the tranny. Then if you do it just right, there's just enough room to push and squeeze a 3mm nylock nut in between the rod end and the tranny. If you use regular 3mm nuts without the nylon insert, they should be a little shorter and allow some clearance. You'll need to Loctite them though. There's more room on the upper back links, so no special cutting is required.


One thing to note though is you need to install some type of thin washer, (like a shim) between the upper rod ends and frame plates. The upper link holes in the frame plate are a little larger than the bottom (due to the way the stock upper link is made), and can allow the shoulder of the Traxxas rod balls to pull in. I had some thin aluminum that I drilled some holes in that would just slip over the 3mm screws, then cut out my own crude washers. This keeps the rod end from trying to pull into the frame plate when you tighten the screw.


Hope this helps.
 
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Pungohboy

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Yea JohnnyShore sure started something I was following along with him on my sons WK up until he switched to the Crawler mounts. I have a whole CK conversion that is brand new but I may sell it if I make my own links and just find the axle mounts for his WK. I have a set of CK axles waiting on the chassis , transmission, and MJ tires to come in the mail then my WK build will start.

I'm glad there is some WK love on here again I've always liked the little truck and there are some great ideas in these WK build threads.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
I'm running some Integy 123mm shocks for the Wheely King & Axial trucks. I took the outer springs off, and put a smaller spring on the inside of the shock so that the suspension has more droop, and allows the truck to sit lower. The good part is the shocks don't leak. The bad part is they want to stick on the o-rings. I'm probably going to remove an o-ring and see how they do. I'm also running 20wt oil and a 3-hole piston. I think they're over damped, but I really haven't even had a chance to run it. I've been working on a more scale looking swaybar setup in addition to the bodies I've been working on for my sons. I'm going to remove or loosen the fit on one of the o-rings, and go to 4-hole pistons and see how it does.
 
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akura2

Well-Known Member
The Wheely King looks SO awesome modded like this.... too bad the cradle wasn't wider....it would look even more scale...


I think this combo of parts is even more scale looking than the tuber/clod/1/8 scale setups I've seen... and most of those look brilliant..

bur for the money you save doing it this way, it works out better for the pocket...

now all you need to do is make a scale tube chassis with these axles/wheels/bodies/dimensions... and it would look awesome.. (I think that's what I'm going to do when I get my truck and parts)

and cut out the side windows...

Too bad the Monster Jam Grave Digger doesn't look QUITE right (too square and the hood is too long).. I would build THAT out... as it stands now... I want to build the Outlaw and tube it up, but they seem to not be featuring that one any more (if you go to HPI's site) and Tower is out of stock on it for now..
 
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OldSchoolDude

Well-Known Member
You can still generally find an Iron Outlaw on E-bay. I bought the latest version because of the 2.4GHz radio. One thing I checked into was the ESC has a LiPo battery mode with low voltage cutoff. The older versions may also have this programming ability, but if not, I think it's a plus for using the new version. Maybe you could find a current version and an Iron Outlaw body?
 
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akura2

Well-Known Member
I'm sponsored my Castle and I use a Nomadio/Spektrum combo in all my vehicles, so i was going to change out the radio and other electronics anyway... Thanks

Tower says the Outlaw will be back in stock late February... so it should be available soon... I don't need the electronics to be waterproof and I don't need another 2.4 radio... but the new truuck DOES look nice... I just prefer the SUV look of either Outlaw or a better-looking Grave Digger
 
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