FAQ and tip thread, add yours please

william g

Retired
Moderator
To make a regular diff, not locked
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=+&FVSEARCH=a850



I have the rc4wd straight axle shafts, love them.
I also have a hot racing center skid
I have some 30 deg. bend threaded suspension links from st racing.
TCS delrin link-servo front mount

All have good fit and finish, but I think the delrin mounts from TCS and the RC4WD axles are the best of these options

Shock blowout or cap popping off

Stock AXIAL shock fix...
See the stoppers or bump stops outside on the shock shaft?

Put them inside the shock body under the piston and blowouts almost 100% disapear. See picture below...



.

a conversion, a 32p gear bolts right in

I even tried a 50t traxxas gear and it fits the axial transmission, it's originally from/for a slash4x4

axial wraith trans has a slipper with 3 mounting screw holes

and for those needing a 50 tooth 32p gear traxxas #6842
and a 54 tooth 32p gear is #3956



.
 

Jerry Matoon

Well-Known Member
OK here's my list:

axial 30 degree bent links front and rear
axial 8 hole beadlocks
axial rear steer kit (I know not legal for comps)
axial low cg battery/servo mount
proline M3 Moabs
venom 2s LiPo
Novak Rooster Crawler ESC
Integy 55T motor
4oz of BBs to start with in the front tires
an extra set of axial blue springs :bang thats what i get for thinking the stock springs were going to be softies
and an assorment of other pieces to complete this little rock crusher when i feel better

Jerry

P.S. Now when you guys say you put stampede driveshafts in them; are they long enough? the long half shaft set i have here the external splined shafts aren't as long as the axial units. just curious
 
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quick5pnt0

Well-Known Member
Right now the only mods I have done are the spacers inside the shocks (thanks WilliamG) and Stampede driveshafts. In the future I'd like to try the high clearance links and possibly 4ws, but for the most part I'm trying to see what stock parts I can break first. :poof



I think the male side of the Stampede shafts are shorter but they're long enough to work fine. I had my stock shaft break after the second battery pack. The Stampede shaft that replaced it has gone through a dozen packs since without a problem.


what it's about is the yoke finger part of the axial is long and tends to spread popping off the Ujoint. Pede units have shorter ''fingers''

I used pede shafts, AND U-joints on my brushless rig.

Another fix is to use copper tubing sliped over the shaft fingers and glued. Axial now makes ''driveshaft rings'' that do the same thing as copper tubing.
Thats true but I believe they're also stronger overall. My driveshaft actually split at the ear.



BTW Many people suggest going with the steel Stampede yokes too because the universal joints in them have pins that are longer making it less likely that they'll pop out. Personally I've been running the stock steel Axial yokes without a problem.
 
W

William

Guest
what it's about is the yoke finger part of the axial is long and tends to spread popping off the Ujoint. Pede units have shorter ''fingers''

I used pede shafts, AND U-joints on my brushless rig.

Another fix is to use copper tubing sliped over the shaft fingers and glued. Axial now makes ''driveshaft rings'' that do the same thing as copper tubing.

Mike,
You mean pede steel U-joints. I know, traxxas calls them yokes but it's really a yoke with the U-joint part. Easy to spot on somebody's rig because they're silver/nichol in color. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG59&P=Z

Like I said, I put the traxxas parts on my brushless rig. So with that I have a complete extra set of axial shafts w/ joints ready as spares for the crawler. Going to do the copper tube deal to help prevent spreading to.

ps
on the axle side I cut off the small boss part that would slip inside the pede transmition. I did this so that it slides far onto the axles pinion shaft.

You can see what I mean in this pictutre here.


.
 
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Jerry Matoon

Well-Known Member
another thing i noticed when i assembled the axles last night was the socket head cap screw that attaches the top links to the axles hit the axle housing. I know it isnt worth much as the only time this may happen is at full droop; but i replaced it with a button head screw to gain a degree or 2

Jerry
 

spinout180

Well-Known Member
I checked out the gallery. Nice trucks, everyone! If I didn't just get a 2nd WK, an Axial would be mine :). After seeing Mr. Will's X-Trail chassis'd rig, I have two questions:

1) how easy would it be to put WK running gear on that chassis?

2) would the X-Trail platform be good for a WK basher/fun runner?

I was gonna leave King #2 pretty much stock, but now I'm having second thoughts...

Troy.
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
I checked out the gallery. Nice trucks, everyone! If I didn't just get a 2nd WK, an Axial would be mine :). After seeing Mr. Will's X-Trail chassis'd rig, I have two questions:
1) how easy would it be to put WK running gear on that chassis?
2) would the X-Trail platform be good for a WK basher/fun runner?
I was gonna leave King #2 pretty much stock, but now I'm having second thoughts...
Troy.
Axles easy once you ''clock'' the link mounts
Tranny, might bve better off buying the axial trans for 40 bucks
 
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