EBR racing tube frame

[cpe mt]

If you don't have the shocks already, a .6 shock is basically a 3-1/2" shock. We have the 3-1/2" Traxxas aluminum big bore shocks back in stock if interested.

http://www.crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=56

 

[soilwork]

Thanks Brett, I already have some shocks, the problem is the ends on the shocks, I ordered the Du-bro ends the clamp on the ball, but the treads on the shock shafts are different, so I ordered the shock mounts from you, those should work and will give me a little adjustability also. Thanks again!!!

 

[ZRP_Racing]

Think you might have a problem with those shock mounts. They are for 1/4" links, yours are smaller. I take it the dubro ends are smaller than the shock shafts. You can alwyas enlarge them.

 

[soilwork]

I measured the links and they are a 1/4 inch, so I think those shock mounts will be ok. If you look at the links, it seems the the diameter is a little larger on one end than the other, so I just reversed them so the 1/4 section is facing the center of the chassis.

 

[ZRP_Racing]

My links were small on both sides of the machined ball feature.

Got and updates / pictures?

Threw my two, Blue Thunder and Wolverine, in the readers ride section.

 

[ZRP_Racing]

My links were small on both sides of the machined ball feature.

Got and updates / pictures?

Threw my two, Blue Thunder and Wolverine, in the readers ride section.

 

[soilwork]

You are correct Stang, the links are 3/16, not 1/4 like I thought. Brett at CPE sent me some 3/16 lower shock mount clamps, they were just a tad larger than the links and moved on the links if you applied pressure. I solved this by putting a layer of heat shrink tubing around the link where the clamp mounts and the mounts are nice and tight now. I'm am using GPM 90mm shocks up front, I am waiting on 75mm GPM shocks for the rear.


Thanks for the mounts, Brett:tmb

 

[soilwork]

I was thinking of bypassing the cantilever in the rear and setting up the rear suspension the same way as the front. I would think that this would give me a little more tuning options,plus the 90mm shocks I have in front are easier to find. The GPM 75mm shocks are on backorder...for haow long, I dont know. Any thought on this. Thanks!

 

[ZRP_Racing]

Either way will work fine. At one time the rear cantilevers were optional. I have another Beach chassis (red) and if I build it I will probably skip the cantilevers.

 

[soilwork]

Building this beast has come to a stop, waiting on parts. Here is the mock up.

 

[Mo']

Very cool. Love the old Beachers.


You know, you could lose those shock mounts and use the ones built into the links. Thats what those ball's milled on the links are. Take a 3mm DuBro ball end, thread it onto the shock shaft and it will snap right onto the link. Nice clean setup.

 

[soilwork]

Thanks!! I ordered a set of those adjustable ball ends, but the shock shafts had a different thread size and the fit was too sloppy for my liking. If this set up doesn't work out, I will order a set of 1/4 inch links and order the RC4WD machined 1/4 inch lower shock mounts. I wanted to go with this setup so I can have A liitle more adjustabillity on the setup.

 

[soilwork]

Almost there!! The axles came in yesterday so I spent the day building them and installing onto the chassis. Now I need to make a tray for the electronics. I was going to use the Titan motors, but when I went to install them , they would not clear the upper link, so now I need to find a modified motor with a shorter can. I think I might go with the speed gems 17 turn motor.

 

[thegr8one783]

have you got the beast up and running yet, i also purchased the same tube frame off ebay, just looking for ideas

 

[soilwork]

I opted to bypass the cantilever set up and go with the standard setup. I am using GPM 90mm shocks and Trinity monster maxx mild motors. I used the bellcrank spacers from the clod kit to space the shocks out and used 3/16 clamp type mounts that I recieved from Brett over at CPE. I used some heat shrink tubing around the links where the shock mounts go( this help prevent them from slipping). I can't upload any more pics.

The chassis handles really well and looks very realistic and seems to hold very well. I would suggest you buy some wheels spacers to widen the stance, because it has a high center of gravity.

 

[thegr8one783]

hey what motors are you running in that i didnt see what they were

 

[soilwork]

I am running Trinity speed gem 17 turn motors now. The Monster Maxx motors had a little too much torque for my liking.

 

[Barber420]

I just got an EBR frame off of Ebay. I'm just waiting for it to come in the mail. I should be starting the build sometime after Christmas(I won't get my Super Clod kit until Christmas). Does anyone know if I can make the factory steering work for a little while until I can afford the 2 servos, 2 steering kits, and 2 servo axle mounts? I have a feeling I'm going to be really impatient and not going to want to wait a couple of weeks to drive it!:wnk I think I'm going to put Integy External Reservoir shocks on mine. They're a fair price, have always worked well for me, and look beautiful. I'll post pics of it as it comes along. Here are a couple off of ebay for now.

Also, does anyone know how to post images from my hard drive? That was how I planned on doing it, but I could only figure out how to put in a web link to show the pictures.

 

[soilwork]

Use Photobucket or a similar photo hosting site to uploade your pics and then direct link your phots to your post. CPE has everything you will need for very little money and thier qaulity is top notch and Brett the owner is a great guy to deal it. I own 7 of his chassis and misc parts and I am very happy with his products.

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/

 

[thegr8one783]

is the motors your running a better set up for the tuber