Clod-o-pede Buildup By Digger

D

DEVASTATOR

Guest
This info was provided by Digger.

I decided to make a sticky about clodopedes, since they seem to be pretty popular. This topic will deal mainly with 2wd Clodopedes. For 4wd info, check the 4wd pede thread. The truck featured in this thread was probably the first Clodopede in existance, built over 10 years ago now. It originally wore a green/yellow "Liquidator" monster truck body and when that body wore out, I changed to Sudden Impact since the real truck Liquidator that inspired this build was sold to John Seasock and became Sudden Impact! If anybody has useful info to add to this, please feel free to post a reply! Now on to the clodopede building!

The first thing you'll need is a Stampede(obviously). Some recomended but not required mods you should do to the pede would include adding the RPM 5x11mm bearing carriers front and rear, a high-torque servo for steering as well as a stronger servo saver such as the black Kimbrough gas-car saver, an aluminum idler gear(go ahead and run with the steel stock top gear, just be sure to lube well), steel outdrive yokes(or CVD's if you prefer, I prefer steel yokes). Make sure you have a slipper clutch as well, it will really help save the gears. It should also have an ESC capable of handling whatever motor you plan to run.

Now start collecting the other parts you'll need:
1. Clod rims. Chrome or white, doesn't matter.
2. Clod sized tires. Now here's a useful tip: whatever tire you pick, keep in mind that the weight of the tire directly affects gearing and performance you can expect. You want to find the lightest, softest tires you can. Imex Bajas and pullers are lighter than stock clod tires and USA-1 electric tires are also a good choice.
3. An extra set of stock pede rims(unless you just want to use the one's you have now, doesn't matter really)

Take the stock pede rims and cut the outside bead area off. Cut enough off so that the pede rims fit inside the back of the clod rims without any of the pede rim sticking outside the clod rim. Like this:

This is a front rim made from an old RPM Talonz rim cut down, glued into the clod rim and 3 screws with nuts have been added for security. You'll need to bore the center out of the clod rim so you can get the nut driver and axle nut through to the pede rim. Like this:


Do both fronts the same depth as shown. If you have pede rim exposed, the truck will be wider than it is long. If you go for that look, fine, I don't. LOL!

You can do the rears the same way as you did the fronts, but you have to cut more off of the pede rims so they fit deeper in. You could also get a pair of adapters designed for mounting pan car foams on metric-axled stadium trucks and buggies. Those would be installed into the clod rims like this:


There is also one other way you can mount the rears: use a thin hex on the stub axle(like the older style Traxxas steel ones or even the thinner RPM ones designed for use with their rims). Then onto this hex, slide a stock black 5-hole clod rim adapter and then the rim. Basically use the clod rim and hex adapter and they will bolt right on to the rear axle if you use a thin enough hex. You wont have a lot of threads sticking through for the axle nut, but a thin one or even a serrated flange-style will work fine, as will locktite if needed. I have raced with this mounting style on the right rear with a CRP clod rim and it worked just fine.

Once the rims are done and your tires are installed, you can bolt them right on to your pede! Now you need to figure out what kind of motor you're going to use. The pede tranny can only be geared so low. The largest spur that fits under the gearcover is a 90 tooth and the smallest 48 pitch pinion readily available is a 12 tooth(although you might be able to get a 10 tooth, 48 pitch pinion from RC4wd)(I strongly suggest making sure you get a STEEL pinion, the aluminum ones will probably not hold up very long). This ratio works for 27 turn stock motors and will even be close for mild mods, but they will run hot and take a while to wind up to speed. For bashing/playing, I like the Magnetic Mayhem motor(or old Kyosho 360 mega motors from the USA-1, basically the same motor). It has tons of torque and seems to be able to handle a gear ratio of 14-15/87 with ease. I have also tried a Novak 5800SS Brushless system in mine and it ran great with silly-fast top speed, geared at 12/87, but it was running hotter than I would have liked. I did manage to get a 10 tooth pinion and 10/87 was about perfect for the Novak b/l, but the pinions are pretty fragile due to the really thin walls from being such a small diameter. Get everything lined up right the first time so you wont risk damaging the pinion by taking it off and putting it on over and over...

I also run my clodopede on 7 cells. The extra cell really helps the truck get moving faster. The trade-off has shown itself to be an occasional stutter on acceleration due to the huge amp draw on launch starving the BEC feeding the RX. This isn't always the case, but if you experience such a stutter, try a receiver pack and see if it goes away. It probably will.

The only other thing you need to do now is select a body, raise the mounts and clip it on. I shaved the posts off the stock body mounts and screwed on longer Parma universal posts in their place. How long a post you need depends on what body you are running and how high you want it to ride. I suggest running the body as low as you can without rubbing the tires. The finished truck should look something like this:



I hope this topic helps and feel free to ask questions or post more info!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Digger

R.C. Alley
Here's a shot of it taken just after I finished it:

Body off:


And here's a shot of my son playing with it a LONG time ago:


(here's what he looks like now, in the foreground:)
 

Jim511

Well-Known Member
I found a much easier way to mount clod tires on the rear of a stock stampede. What you need is the rims (obviously) but dont mod them and remove the 5 pins on the backside of the wheel. Pick up the clodbuster wheel discs, they go over the hex hubs and mount to the wheels with those 5 pins. Simply move your shocks into the third mounting hole (or further in if youd like) and bolt it up. Works perfectly. You do however need to shave the wheel disc down a little so that it doesnt rub on the arm and the carrier, but its no big deal to do and its an inexpensive way to go about mounting the rear tires.

You need this parts tree: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGB54&P=Z but if you ask around the forums Im sure someone has two that they will let go of cheaper than that. Next time I go home I will try to get pics of them so you can see what Im talking about. I havent tried it on the front, I dont think it will really work, I just cut up some old stampede rims and glued them into the wheels for the front.
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
While that will work, it works much better with thin wheel hexes like the RPM ones supplied with their clawz rims. If you try to use the thicker Traxxas hex, you might not have enough threads of the stub axle exposed to catch the locking insert of the wheel nut...
 

Jim511

Well-Known Member
Yes I forgot to mention that, I am using the smaller wheel hex's from RPM. Another thing you can do to make sure that it will hold is flip the locknut so that the nylon will be right on the axle from the get go. Pics will be up sometime this weekend, I need to repaint my rims and start looking for a body. I think I might pick up an Axial Racing Powerwagon body and go with the theme "Sergeant Slaughter" or get something else and go with "Blacked out"
 

Jim511

Well-Known Member
Digger I actually have a question for you on motors. I was thinking alot about the lathe motors. Do you think they would be a good choice? are they just all torque and no go? I dont have any of them, I want to pick one up for my crawler but I was also thinking about one for my clodopede. Any ideas or should I just search ebay for a mag mayhem?
 

carcrusher

Well-Known Member
a 12 turn titan on 7 cells works awesome if you have your slipper set right. the mag mayhem is the most popular motor of choice, but as i didn't have one at the time i went with the titan. even a 21 turn titan didn't work that well on 7 cells for me.

with the 12 turn, i could actually run a 13 tooth pinion without overheating anything.
 

Jim511

Well-Known Member
Well Id like to run a titan on 12 cells, but the comps wont allow it. I also cant afford brushless, otherwise Id run one! But I was contemplating running a lathe motor if it had enough giddy up in it, yea it has the torque, but I also need the speed
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
You would be better off trying to find a mag mayhem. Lathe motors have a little more torque than your average 540, but also have less RPM, making them slow. A mag mayhem has more torque than a lathe as well as more RPM, making it ideal for this application.
 

slashbasher

Active Member
liquidator tires

What tires were on the truck when it had the green liquidator body on it ? The pin type tires. What were they?
 

Digger

R.C. Alley
If I remember right, they were Duratrax Clod spikes. They had plenty of traction! LOL! I don'y know what happened to them now though...
 

rocpede4x4

Well-Known Member
Gearing to use for clod-o-pede

I got this gearing chart from K&J Custom's off his web site along time ago.

These ratios are for the 4x4 stampedes. For 2wd stampedes with the Clod tires, ran same ratios below EXCEPT use 3 tooth bigger spur gear.
Keep in mind thses gearing ratios may need to be altered some depending on truck set-up, number of cells ran and terrain. Thses are great points to start your gearing and should be ideal for most situations. We highly recommend running at least 7 cells with the Clod tires!!

Stock Stinger 20 turn motor= 10 pinion/90 spur (12/96 is ok with 7 cell or bigger battery)

19x1 or 19x2 motor= 12/87

17x1 or 17x2 motor= 12/90

16x1 or 16x2 motor= 12/93

14x1 or 14x2 motor= 10/90

13x1 or 13x2 motor= 10/93

12 turn or lower motor= 10/96

Rich
 
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