I'm creating this post to inform those who's ever been looking at axle options for their custom rig. Specifically clod axles vs gmade axles. There isn't a lot of information regarding the gmade axles. Googling for information on the gmade spider axles were still sparse, it lead to forums about the R1 but barely anything about the spider axles. I hope this post will answer questions about the axles and compare the difference between the two. If someone wants to correct me or contribute to this, it would be appreciated. Parts difference: axle stub: the top is a gmade, the lower is a clod. The Gmade is much thicker, uses an M5 lock nut and uses a keyed shaft to mount wheels on. The clod uses a splined shaft and M4 locknuts. Both stubs are made of steel. Dog bones: The gmade shaft is 8mm and also uses a keyed shaft to enter the differentials. The clod's shaft is 6mm(?) thick, uses keyed splined that adapts onto a brass hex then mates with the differential. Both are made from steel. Differentials: The Gmade differential are on the left, stock clod diffs are on the right. Both differentials uses three spider gears. The Gmade ones have the ability to simulate a limited locked differential by placing a heavy weight of grease inside the differential and sealing it by means of six screws and o-rings. No idea what either gears/ diffs are made of, input would be great. Wheel hub: The two on the left are the included 14mm and 12mm plastic wheel hub for the Gmade axle. On the right, is the stock clod brass hex. Thats should cover most of the major internal parts. If there is anythng specific anyone wants to see, let me know! Now for the outside dimensions. Complete axles: Upper is a stock Gmade axle, the lower is a slightly modified clod axle. The gmade axle is obviously wider. Clod axles are 11 inches wide, while the Gmade axles are 12.5 inches in width. The clod consists of four peices, the gear box halves and both axle C-hubs made from some sort of plastic (help on material please!) The Gmade axle is a two peice gear box, upper and lower both of which are made from lexan (same stuff that bullet proof windows are made from). Gmade Gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 27.245:1 Stock clodbuster gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 30.08 added 01/17/2011 Mounting the axles onto a chassis. Lets imagine you already have a chassis ready to use. That means links, rod ends and balls, and the chassis. For the owner of a clod buster, more than likely you will be upgrading to a 4 link system of some sorts. Which means it will require you to get an upper link mount, a lower link mount, and a servo mount. If your a clod racer, you will obviously need an adjustable motor mount, and maybe a locked diff or an adjustable one. And you'll also have to buy 2 of each (unless they offer four as a set). For the Gmade axle owner all the mounting points are there, the servo mount is built in, so as is the adjustable motor mount. The only problem is the mounting mounts for links have their holes bored for 4mm screws. What does that mean? You won't be able to use the standard 6.8mm ball ends that come standard in most kits. You'll have to make an adaptor piece for the uppers, and bore new holes for the lower. Or you can purchase their 10mm ball end kit, which is what i did. I've also replaced every rod end on my rig with their version of the 6.8mm as well. Below you'll see what a difference their 10mm ball end is compared to an hpi 6.8mm rod end. Other close up pictures of the Gmade: added 2/15/11 Gmade Gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 27.245:1 Stock clodbuster gear ratio with 13 tooth pinion: 30.08 Clod or Gmade? The general consensus is that the Clod axle is superior to the gmade. In my opinion from a first look, the gmade one will save you money in the long run. Though the clod has a vast amount of parts availability and upgrade options, the Gmade axles were built with what the clod had lacked in a custom axle. For example: upon starting a custom Clod rig, one of the first few things to upgrade would be bearings, a four link system, servo mount, shock mount, wheel wideners. The Gmade axles come with all this, except the wheel wideners, but the axles are wider so no need really. The clod buster axles, a proven design that has lasted more than two decades. You can even build a set of clod axles with out any stock parts left, albeit maybe the screws may be used. With a vast source of parts and optional parts in the market, gives this choice the upper hand when it comes time to replace parts. The Gmade axles at a first glance look like a TXT and clodbuster axle hybrid, and for the most part, it is. They took what was popular about both axle, incorporated what users wanted in an axle and beefed up all the necessary area. In theory, this should call for less time in the pits. But does give you a very limited choice in upgrades. The other downfall, which I have yet to experience, is the failure of the gears. Something about them being soft? In conclusion, Tamiya had came up with a successful gearbox twenty years ago with the clod. Twenty years later, a small company named Gmade came along and introduced what can be called an updated clod buster axle. The clod axles in their own rights have created a niche and cult following. The Gmade axles are like the evolution of the clod axle for the 21st century. if you guys got questions, feel free to ask. These axles will be replacing my current rig's set up. I will be testing them with a pair of old school novak 5800SS brushless system. Look out for my build! This is my way of contributing back to the community that had helped me in the early day's when I first started my clod project nine years ago.