Chassis - keep stock wb?

Manfjourde

Contributor
Hey guys, just curious what aluminum chassis you use/recommend will give the Clod about the same wheelbase as the stock one? Thanks!
 

william g

Retired
Moderator
II, III, and IV all use the same mount points as a stock WB Clod.
III is the most adjustable, and IMHO the nicest looking when complete.

You could even go with a CPE chassis and ask Brett for short links to keep the wheelbase close to stock.
 

Manfjourde

Contributor
II, III, and IV all use the same mount points as a stock WB Clod.
III is the most adjustable, and IMHO the nicest looking when complete.

You could even go with a CPE chassis and ask Brett for short links to keep the wheelbase close to stock.
Good call Bill, I love Brett's quality work and he's great to work with. I may check into that, especially since they are a bit cheaper:)
 

kjr2

Old Timer
ESP sells stuff o eBay the Zilla2 chassis set is $99 just tell em you want short wheelbase links and you'll have a stock wheelbase
 

Manfjourde

Contributor
I'm liking the zilla 2 look and length. Not planning on racing so to bash I think that would be nice. I'm hearing that ESP qualiyhas gone down though and the kits aren't so nice. Has anyone got one recently?
 

kjr2

Old Timer
I got one last month from ESP. Finish was rough--scratches and what looks like paint over spray and some rough edges. I can overlook that stuff tho cuz I know they are largely made by hand. What does suck is the complete lack of lock nuts and hex hardware. Its all Phillips and no locknuts. $200 is an absurd price to ask for these kits (msrp) 99. bucks is fair tho IMO.
 

CANUCK CLOD

Well-Known Member
I'm liking the zilla 2 look and length. Not planning on racing so to bash I think that would be nice. I'm hearing that ESP qualiyhas gone down though and the kits aren't so nice. Has anyone got one recently?
I have had a couple of ESP chassis over the years and I also have had the CPE product as well. If you want that old school look then you will need to go with ESP. However, I prefer the quality and service that you get from CPE.

You can just recommend the the stock wheelbase length through CPE and you will end up with a better performing chassis & more tuning ability down the road.

Another option is to pick up a ground pounder chassis through CPE and build it with stock wheel base lengths. This would give you a more "scale" type look and again more tuning options than you would get with ESP.

Hope this helps, post some pics once you decide on what you are going with.
 

Manfjourde

Contributor
I have had a couple of ESP chassis over the years and I also have had the CPE product as well. If you want that old school look then you will need to go with ESP. However, I prefer the quality and service that you get from CPE.

You can just recommend the the stock wheelbase length through CPE and you will end up with a better performing chassis & more tuning ability down the road.

Another option is to pick up a ground pounder chassis through CPE and build it with stock wheel base lengths. This would give you a more "scale" type look and again more tuning options than you would get with ESP.

Hope this helps, post some pics once you decide on what you are going with.
Good points Canuck, I built a Clod with the CP chassis this past summer and love it, I think something different would be nice. I was having a hard time pinpointing it but you nailed it with the "old school look" of the ESP. I wish CPE would make a chassis that was a little more "stock" looking and less race-esque. I was pretty decided on the Z2, but now I am rethinking...
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
my ZIV needed to be polished becuase it came dull and I added 10 or so locknuts $3.00 but other then that there was no bent parts or wrong cut's misplaced holes etc. and they answered the phone for me so I have had no trouble contacting them or there service at all.

I learned the best way to get ahold of most of these rc guy's/shop's is just call them straight up.

I was in this same boat.

do I want an old school cool looking MT or a newer better performer that looks nothing like any truck and more like a space rover with a digger body on it type thing. in the end I went old school for the truck look over the space look.


the look of the newer chassis dont look right to me at all becuase they dont look like a truck of any sort to me.

it is great they perform better with these newer chassis but when I build a truck I want it to look like a truck so I went old school and would do it again before I went with a new better performing space rover rc with big tires.
 

Manfjourde

Contributor
my ZIV needed to be polished becuase it came dull and I added 10 or so locknuts $3.00 but other then that there was no bent parts or wrong cut's misplaced holes etc. and they answered the phone for me so I have had no trouble contacting them or there service at all.

I learned the best way to get ahold of most of these rc guy's/shop's is just call them straight up.

I was in this same boat.

do I want an old school cool looking MT or a newer better performer that looks nothing like any truck and more like a space rover with a digger body on it type thing. in the end I went old school for the truck look over the space look.


the look of the newer chassis dont look right to me at all becuase they dont look like a truck of any sort to me.

it is great they perform better with these newer chassis but when I build a truck I want it to look like a truck so I went old school and would do it again before I went with a new better performing space rover rc with big tires.
Now you nailed it! I love all the trucks on here but to me the race chassis look like some space, moon explorer as you said. I guess when I see real monster trucks, their chassis are nowhere near that of the racing clod's - more like a clodzilla - even though that is not very real, it is closer. To each their own I guess. Thanks for the input guys, think I will be getting me a Z2!
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
if I were a hardcore racer or planned on racing down the road I may have went with something newer but there is nothing around me for hours so I am the only comp to even challenge and the look was more appealing then performance in my situation.

I'm runnin duel 4600 BL so it is still going to haul balls either way and it would have to be a monstered size track to even get half throttle out.

also if I was a hardcore racer I would be building a short coarse truck or a rc10 or something made for the common track to begin with instead of a huge clod.

for me there just not made to be any fun on a track or at least none that I have seen are even big enough to be any fun for huge rc's.

the nitro usa-1 I had could not even make the turns so i just cleared the track with a free style run and made my own lanes to be any fun and it was lol.
 
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Manfjourde

Contributor
Just an update- went with the Clodzilla 2, called and ordered over the phone - way nice and gave me a little deal too. Anyone who has the zilla 2 run a custom sway bar? If so, how did you make it?
 

emory70

Well-Known Member
i have a cpe evo i scored on ebay, and ordered links to give me a stock wheelbase from crawford. the links are so short that there is very limited articulation. the crawford chassis has the link mounts further apart than the stock and esp units, which makes the required links for a stock wheelbase too short for any real articulation
 

kjr2

Old Timer
I made some swaybars for my zilla 2. I just got some music wire from the hobby shop and bent it with pliers. I zip tied it.to.the upper links. It worked good. I'll get a pic up later
 

northerngames

Well-Known Member
the race chassis are for racing so your not going to get crawler articulation out of them as opposed to a crawler setup anyhow.

stock WB on custom chassis are too small though at least from what I can tell anyhow.

even the bone stock clod's WB to me needs to be another 2-3" to look right to remove the toy look of it.
 
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