Grave Digger1
Well-Known Member
I tried to run my wire like HawnMT does on the side of the chassis and the truck was undrivable because there must of been so much interference, once I put it back to a stock position it was better to where it is now. So that leads me to believe it is more a RX wire problem.
Tower hobbies has a $70 2,4 GZH system i may get.
Lynn
Just got the transmission mount today. Thanks Brett. Initial thoughts were to put a spacer between transmission and mount, but that will foul the top links. Therefore,I'll make up a small ali. plate and fit it to that. The bolt holding the top link will serve as an anchorage point.Should do the job. Just had the goop in the rear diff fail. Going to have a look at another method of locking the diff.An alternative is to fill the diff with a heavy grease and make it a lot stiffer.
Fitted the V3 gearbox mount this evening and removed the Tad brace. To fit the mount to my chassis,I made a couple of L shaped brackets. I've used the hole below the upper link as an attachment point and 2 bolts into the mount. One thing I noticed is that the gears now run a lot smoother. I think that the Tad brace was slightly out of line.
XStatic Dallas
Well-Known Member
You know, this may be an old thread and you may have a new RX by now BUUUT...
Everyone says NOT to do this but I'm a budget kind of guy and since it's already screwed up...I'll try anything to make it work.
I had this problem on a few of my trucks. I simply cut the antenna wire at every break and spliced it back together. Instantly fixed it...never had a glitch issue or a noticeable shortness in range either....
All it takes is a little electrical tape...and some cuss words to go along with trying to get the antenna back in the tube. It works but you have to fight. I eventually just started putting 2 short Parma body posts with a cut down (and painted black) pop cycle stick to mount from post to post. Mounted the posts on the radio tray and wrapped the antenna around the pop cycle stick. Once again...no glitching or noticeable shortness of range. Also allows me to mount bodies without the stupid looking antenna mast sticking 2 ft off the top of the truck. I also eventually started velcro mounting my bodies to the truck anyway. So now theres nothing exposed...no tearing antenna's....losing body clips...or any of that. When I rolled over hard enough to detach the body...it was fine as well. Causes less scratches as it doesnt have the weight of the truck grinding it into the ground...check to make sure everythings okay..stick the body back on and go.
Everyone says NOT to do this but I'm a budget kind of guy and since it's already screwed up...I'll try anything to make it work.
I had this problem on a few of my trucks. I simply cut the antenna wire at every break and spliced it back together. Instantly fixed it...never had a glitch issue or a noticeable shortness in range either....
All it takes is a little electrical tape...and some cuss words to go along with trying to get the antenna back in the tube. It works but you have to fight. I eventually just started putting 2 short Parma body posts with a cut down (and painted black) pop cycle stick to mount from post to post. Mounted the posts on the radio tray and wrapped the antenna around the pop cycle stick. Once again...no glitching or noticeable shortness of range. Also allows me to mount bodies without the stupid looking antenna mast sticking 2 ft off the top of the truck. I also eventually started velcro mounting my bodies to the truck anyway. So now theres nothing exposed...no tearing antenna's....losing body clips...or any of that. When I rolled over hard enough to detach the body...it was fine as well. Causes less scratches as it doesnt have the weight of the truck grinding it into the ground...check to make sure everythings okay..stick the body back on and go.
Rail Driver
Active Member
Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I was wondering if it would be possible to see some of the photos from the process? They're no longer in the thread... (at least not for me)