Yes Brett. I've got it sorted now thanks. Goes like the clappers now it's on BL and 3 cell Lipo.Got a suggestion for you. If the upgrade steering tie bar is anodized blue to match the rest of the truck it would look a lot better I think. Be in touch soon to order some spare parts. Touch wood, I haven't bust ANYTHING! (yet).Must be a rarity. Good truck,good fun. Regards.
OK. Tad brace, check. Savox servo, check.EZRun 60 amp ESC + 13.5 motor, check.11.1, 3 cell Lipo, check. L/H shock screwed down to keep R/H front tyre on the deck, check. Upgrade 'shafts,gears and tie bar. 2.4 Ghz radio with Spektrum DX6i with right stick controlling rear steer, cut down to 30%. Any thing else I need to do? Many thanks to you guys for your help and ideas for this truck. Due to you,I haven't managed to break anything yet but time will tell. This afternoon I'm going out to a local BMX grass track to give it a serious seeing to. Wish me luck.
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Had a good thrash round this afternoon. Had a funny turn when the L/H front wheel adopted a funny angle. Axle broken I thought. No. Lost the wheel nut.
Next up were the Cat Braces. The L/H one on the back axle came apart. Next time use Loctite! Not one actual breakage though. 4,5000 mAh 3 cell Lipo packs (lasting approx 50 mins each) I had nothing actually break that could be blamed on the truck. Result. Due to extremely hot weather at the moment, The truck is now very dusty.:tmb
Next up were the Cat Braces. The L/H one on the back axle came apart. Next time use Loctite! Not one actual breakage though. 4,5000 mAh 3 cell Lipo packs (lasting approx 50 mins each) I had nothing actually break that could be blamed on the truck. Result. Due to extremely hot weather at the moment, The truck is now very dusty.:tmb
Grave Digger1
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good run, I gotta me a Lipo pack set up now.
When can we see pics of your truck?
Lynn
When can we see pics of your truck?
Lynn
At the moment it looks just like a stock GP,apart from the Braces on the axles.I did think of putting a British Ford Capri body on it but the shell was too short. Scratch that one. I did e-mail Bolink about a couple of shells. They haven't replied. But seriously though, it's only through following the exploits of you guys that pointed out the weaker points of the truck and by reading about it I seem to have avoided the worst. Upgrades were fitted before any serious thrashing. I'd advise any one thinking of getting the GP to do so and join this forum.
I've decided to add this photo to show how I intend to go with my truck. The body was bought s/h and the previous owner cut a big hole in the roof. I've temporarily "repaired" it,but ideally would like a new shell of the same type.
I've decided to add this photo to show how I intend to go with my truck. The body was bought s/h and the previous owner cut a big hole in the roof. I've temporarily "repaired" it,but ideally would like a new shell of the same type.
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Lookin good, reminds of the mud drag race cars I used to see on television years ago.At the moment it looks just like a stock GP,apart from the Braces on the axles.I did think of putting a British Ford Capri body on it but the shell was too short. Scratch that one. I did e-mail Bolink about a couple of shells. They haven't replied. But seriously though, it's only through following the exploits of you guys that pointed out the weaker points of the truck and by reading about it I seem to have avoided the worst. Upgrades were fitted before any serious thrashing. I'd advise any one thinking of getting the GP to do so and join this forum.
I've decided to add this photo to show how I intend to go with my truck. The body was bought s/h and the previous owner cut a big hole in the roof. I've temporarily "repaired" it,but ideally would like a new shell of the same type.
Tell me about it. I have restored quite a few body's of this type.What I did with mine was to cut a filler piece from card and cover it with duck tape! I think the truck now is pretty much all there.Recommend it to anyone, but I enjoy the fiddling around side of the hobby. I've already got the next project lined up. A Tamiya twin motor drift car.
If your wheels loosened, their movement on the hexes themselves will in turn start to move the hex on the axle pin causing the problem you had. Aluminum hexes will handle more power, but won't stop the wheel from coming loose.
W
William
Guest
blue loctite your wheel nuts if your having loosening issues.
Grave Digger1
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing your not brushless and this is 13T brushed motor?
I've got a 19T Venom Fireball brushed motor I'm itching to try out and see how it does.
Lynn
It's me again. Been thinking about battery position. As you all know, I am using a 3 cell,5000 Mah Lipo pack. This is a huge lump of a thing the size of the regular battery. Just moving down would put it right over the front servo. Not a good idea if the front end compressed it would hit. However, I have found that it fits snugly between the Tad brace and the tray.A velcro strap holds the front.The end of the battery is 1/4" away from the spur gear and the front end is flush with the end of the chassis. It may work withe standard battery pack. If it doesn't work out, I've got a couple of smaller batteries that will fit side by side underneath, but they are only 1300 Mah each. I can wire them to give me 2600 though. The locked rear axle made it wheely much easier,but the low battery placing has cancelled that out. Result.
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manimaniacal
Active Member
Lynn, how is that Fireball motor working for you? After I read this thread and one of your others I went ahead and bought one. I jumped the gun before on the Kershaw Designs Crawler Motor but researched this motor and felt extremely comfortable in doing so. Keep us updated.
Grave Digger1
Well-Known Member
I can't get my stock pinion gear off my stock motor so I have a new gear set coming now from CPE. Once I get that I'll get the 19D Fireball in.
I got a 5000 NIMH battery now and that made a ton of difference with the stock motor alone. Right now I'm plagued with electrical issues off and on with the radio cutting out on me so I think I've got RX problems now.
Lynn
Grave Digger. How have you got your RX and ESC placed.I'm using a Spektrum 2.4 aircrft RX mounted on the inside of the cab area and the ESC is at the rear of the battery tray, above the motor. I don't have any glitches at all, even at maximum range. I can reliably control it at 300 yards or more.
Grave Digger1
Well-Known Member
I don't think I'm experiencing glitching though.
I have/had my ESC and RX placed in the stock positions, then I moved the RX to the inside of the cab and I still have the same problem.
I didn't not have this problem when in stock form before the tear down. It wasn't upon tear down that I noticed the RX antenna wire had cuts with exposed wire and micro scratches coming out of the razor sharp antenna holder. I tapped the wire up in a couple spots and put it back together and that's when I started getting this problem.
It acts like I'm not getting a single at times and everything cuts out or partial items cut out. Most time I can jiggle the antenna wire and everything jumps back to life until I get too much movement and everything goes hay wire, I can touch and jiggle the antenna wire again and it takes off again like it should.
It did this with the stock ESC and the new one, so I don't think it is ESC issue. It has done it with the stock motor and now a new 19T motor and new 5000 NIMH batteries, so I don't think it is that either. I have everything all neat and tiddy as far as wire routing etc. so I don't think it is that.
The last thing I have yet to try is either a whole new radio system or just a new RX.
All I know now is I'm getting frustrated and this thing is now a rocket with the new 19T motor, batteries, and MOD1 gears if I can get it to run right..
I just want to run it and have fun and not have a head ache.
Lynn