Callin' This One The...

[kjr2]

It will flex as much as the alminum will twist. So not as much as a cralwer with shocks, but the insane clearance more than makes up for it and allows this type of chassis to go where others can't.

 

[jagg]

Thanks :tmb ! Like kjr2 said, this style chassis gets all it's flex from the U-channel. The nice thing is that the more use it gets, the more flex it will get :willy.

 

[jagg]

Been a while since I had a chance to get workin' on the Misfit. I managed to get the BTA steering fixed :willy. Took Gimbals advice and moved the servo back behind the brace, and put a bend in the link to gain a little more clearance. I also swapped out the servo saver for a straight arm.

I also decided to narrow up the Mad Force Wheels a bit.

I got an idea for painting the body from a Molson Canadian beer case. Didn't quiet come out the way I wanted it to though :bang :bang . Might end up with the famous kjr2 old school flat black before I'm done.

Now I just need to find time to wire everthing up, and test out how it all is going to work :tmb .

 

[kjr2]

You did the body flat black? Cool! I wanna see! But none of you pics work :ack

edit
I can see the pics now. You might do the body flat black. I was reading too fast:willy

 

[jagg]

I haven't painted it flat black yet. Still deciding on whether the scheme will stay or not. The wife says she likes it. It's the first positive thing she has said about my R.C's in a long time :tong . Usually it's " And how much did that cost " so we'll see.

 

[kjr2]

Yeah they show up now.

Your steering setup came out really nice... That body looks pretty cool too.

Are you going to mount the ESC on one of the axle braces? I probably asked you that before but I forgot...

 

[jagg]

Yep the ESC is going to sit opposite to the front servo. The servo regulator and RX along the chassis somewhere? The one rear paralell brace will be enpty for now, until I figure out what to do with the batteries. This truck definitely is taking longer than I thought to build. Wish I had more time:bang :bang .

 

[kjr2]

Mabye you should put the ESC in back and the batts in front? More weight on the front ya know?

Don't forget we're still waiting for a topic on the other truck with the Moabs!

 

[jagg]

Got to thinking about that, but I am looking into making knuckle packs for the batteries. For now I'll mount a stick pack across the front for added weight, until I get all the bugs worked out. As for the other truck. That's where the whole "needin' more time issue" comes in :bang . I haven't done a thing to that one in months. Good news is that I should have all the wiring done on the Misfit tonight :willy.

 

[Renegade]

a cool idea for you would be to build ure pack in a strait line 1x the number of cells you do. then you could set in in the top of the channel and ziptie it tight. If you did it that way you could slide the pack up as needed.

Say each smily is a cell



instead of

 

[joe]

^
thats an awesome idea!
never seen someone do that.
:tmb

 

[jagg]

Never thought of it that way, great idea :tmb. However just when I thought I was getting ahead, my soldering gun breaks :ack . Oh well, gotta go buy a new one tomorrow, so hopefully finished tomorrow night :reye .

 

[Renegade]

hope it works out for you I came across it while looking at a site where you pick the configuration that you want them to build ure pack as. It was labeled as stick so I thought it was a perfect fit.

Good luck on ure project

 

[jagg]

AAAAAAHHHHHH.......This truck is driving me nuts!! Ok, now that thats out, on to the problems. Finally after two trips last night to the LHS and one to Canadian tire, I finally got the truck wired(got a little excited at that point). Batteries in the Radio, set-up the ESC, and got the servo's centered. That's when I found my first problem. With the BTA steering I have both servo's facing the same way, therefore :bang :bang :bang . I guess I should have seen that coming.

So now I have this:

\--I--\


\--I--\

Instead of this:

\--I--\


/--I--/

Now I know that a reversing Y-harness will fix this, just feel a little stupid not to notice it before hand :ack .

The other problem I have is that the Integy 55's seem a bit on the noisy side with the 9th pinions. I've never had this set up with the lower gearing before, but when it was all together it was awesome to drive. The truck crawled up everything I drove at, but was really noisy. I took the motors out and gave them a little throttle and they sound ok. Spun each diff and although both are locked, no above normal gear mesh noise. But when I put them back together the noise is back. Double checked the mesh at the pinion and everthing seems ok.

This chassis is amazing :willy :willy . The torque from the Lathes is awesome, and with the 9th pinions:drool :drool . I was like a kid with a new toy . Can't wait to find someplace to really try this thing out. Just as soon as I can get these two issues figured out :bang :bang .

Any ideas??????

 

[jagg]

Ok, I got the steering problem fixed. I just ordered up a couple of these guys.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=EXRA325

Bad news is, they wont be here until next Wednseday:ack .

 

[kjr2]

Well when I put my first lathe motor in, I spun the tire by hand to turn over the motor and check the gear mesh. Well it was noisy as hell. Like a loud clicking. So I took it out re-did the gear mesh and it was the same So then I decdided to use the pinion gear to spin the motor. It was the motor. It was making a clicking noise from the bursh/comm.

So I wired it up, out of the truck, and I didn't hear the noise when you actually spin it fast with battery power.

BUT the other motor was perfectly quiet....

So I said F it and put the noisy one in front and quite one in back and wired them up and ran it and it's quiet.

I think when I wired up that noisy one out of the truck and ran it for about 30 seconds I fixed it.

So if yours are noisy still just run them a tiny bit and see if that fixes it.

Mine is pretty quiet. More quite than my Clod with silver cans.

 

[syco133]

Glad you guys like the torison trucks I am one of the people who started it all I am the father of the pimp cane the clod torison chassis I started selling them on rccrawler a while ago then sold the rights to another guy beacuse I no longer had the time to make them.The truck looks good so far the only problem I see is that the peice coming down from the backbone to the axle case right above the motor wont last long it takes ALOT of abuse.Other than that its just learning to drive super smooth so the truck can work the way its meant to.Something else those wheels are the kyosho twinforce wheels when you buy the wheels new they come with an adapter to adapt them down to a maxx hex I had a set with red rocks on them myself.As for the lathes I had a couple noisy ones myself I tried some of the axiom motors and they were way smoother than the lathes.I now run E flite park 400 920kv brushless motors in my clod and tlt crawler they work awsome and have enough power to destroy stock clod gears on 8 cells.I use the parks with 8 tooth pinions and the quark procar 33 controller and it works awsome the engine breaking cant be beat and the truck is super light has awsome wheel speed and will last 2 hours on a elite 4500 under the knuckle pack.:tmb

 

[jagg]

Thanks Syco, coming from the " Father of the Pimp Cane " means alot. I did alot of searching on RCC for info on these. Your name and Highmarks came up quite often. It is a great design, and works awesome:willy . I'll have to see what happens with the motors. Hopefully they will quiet down, after a little break in. The chassis braces already have a bit of a twist in them, so I can see what you mean.

I had noticed that Run2jeepn, has been selling the chassis, but didn't realize you sold the rights to him. I bought the Twin Force wheels from another member here, and they came with the aluminum adapters. Sadly they are stuck to the Clod hubs, so I have to use them as they are. They work well so far. This is still a work in process, still need the reversing Y-harness. See what happens until then!

BTW, welcome to the gang :trk

 

[jagg]

It was making a clicking noise from the bursh/comm.

That exactly what I am hearing. Maybe I'll pull them out and try just an open run.

 

[kjr2]

Mine only needed like 30 seconds wide open under no load except the weight of the pinion. (run through ESC and radio, not by touching a battery to it although that could work too I guess).