jagg
Well-Known Member
Here's the pics of my new braces, and the stockers
Mounted on the axles with servo.
I originally had the truck set up for a Defiance style steering set-up.
Defiance Racing.
Started mocking up the steering linkages and flipped the steering hubs around. Using a Futaba S3003 for the mock up. Got a set of 654's to go in on final assembly.
I still need to get the motors in to check clearances, I can already see that I'll have a bit of a problem.
Mounted on the axles with servo.
I originally had the truck set up for a Defiance style steering set-up.
Defiance Racing.
Started mocking up the steering linkages and flipped the steering hubs around. Using a Futaba S3003 for the mock up. Got a set of 654's to go in on final assembly.
I still need to get the motors in to check clearances, I can already see that I'll have a bit of a problem.
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jagg
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure your right Gimbal. Being as you've had one of these already, got any tips. On a side note, just realized this little Warn 0% thing below my PC and info, any one know what it is, or how it got there? Pretty sure I haven't posted anything offensive that I would need a warning title, even though it's at 0%.
kjr2
Old Timer
I got that warn 0% thing too... Don't know what is but only you can see yours..
Man your bta setup is great. I'm jealous a little! Yours is probably the best I've seen. You can't even tell it's homebrew it looks like an aftermarket setup.
The thing is I can't do BTA on my Spider (I haven't figured out a way yet) and my Clod has the shocks mounted to the axle braces so I can't mount a servo there or change from the stock braces...
Oh I like your body post thing too. What car/truck is that from?
Man your bta setup is great. I'm jealous a little! Yours is probably the best I've seen. You can't even tell it's homebrew it looks like an aftermarket setup.
The thing is I can't do BTA on my Spider (I haven't figured out a way yet) and my Clod has the shocks mounted to the axle braces so I can't mount a servo there or change from the stock braces...
Oh I like your body post thing too. What car/truck is that from?
jagg
Well-Known Member
Thanks alot Kenny, nice to see people liking whats going on. The hardest part was the bending. Had 2 or 3 that were off, and once bent there was no fixin them. The mounting posts are from an old Duratrax buggy I think. They've been lying around for years, and now finally get to use them. If you go scroll back up to the 3rd last pic in that write up, I had to raise the post on the lh side to get better pics of the BTA steering. The post on the rh is set at the height where the body will sit.
Hey Gimbal, earlier you mentioned about weighting the tires. I've see guy's using weight also on the steering hubs with stick on lead weights. Is there one better set up than the other, or is it just personal preferences?
Hey Gimbal, earlier you mentioned about weighting the tires. I've see guy's using weight also on the steering hubs with stick on lead weights. Is there one better set up than the other, or is it just personal preferences?
I might not be Gimbal, but my view on the subject:
With weights in your tires / on your rims, the weight can be placed lower, thus lowering the overal CG. With weights attached to the knuckles, there is no added rotational mass (no increase of moment of inertia), so it will not affect your acceleration etc. And depending how far you place your weights away from the kingpin screw, it will also put more strain on the steering system.
I put stick-on wheelweights on all wheels of my cralwer, and also weighted the front knuckles down to shift weight forward:
Ive never actually seen that stuffing the knuckle idea. I like the idea of not adding rotational mass 
Personally, I have run bbs in the tires and also lead strips wrapped around the rims inside the tires, then taped with electrical tape. I prefer the strips on the wheels method. With bbs you get the inertia effect that Tom illuded to...sssshhhoonk, kshhoooonk, kshooonk LOL.
Yhea on a Clod I would stuff the knuckles like Tom did You can also zip tie lead strips to the axle tubes.
Speaking of axle tubes, keep in mind all this extra weight adds stress to the tubes. So keep a couple in your spare parts box
Personally, I have run bbs in the tires and also lead strips wrapped around the rims inside the tires, then taped with electrical tape. I prefer the strips on the wheels method. With bbs you get the inertia effect that Tom illuded to...sssshhhoonk, kshhoooonk, kshooonk LOL.
Yhea on a Clod I would stuff the knuckles like Tom did
You can also zip tie lead strips to the axle tubes. Speaking of axle tubes, keep in mind all this extra weight adds stress to the tubes. So keep a couple in your spare parts box
kjr2
Old Timer
I like that idea of stuffing the knuckels too. I never wanted to weight the wheels for fear I would break an axle...
Here is a pic of my Spider knucles. You can see there is now way to weight them liek Tom did and also you can see that BTA steering would require massive changes to the links/mounts...
The good thing about these knuckles is they are insanley strong. Thick as hell and reinforced all over. I doubt I'll ever break one. If they can drive a 1:1 over it I don't think I'll have a problem...
I thought about adding weight to the big flat spots on the axles. You can stack 3 cells there (2 on bottom, 1 on top like a pyramid) or fit an ESC or just some weights no problem...
Since this pic was taken I've ground off the sterring stops.
Here is a pic of my Spider knucles. You can see there is now way to weight them liek Tom did and also you can see that BTA steering would require massive changes to the links/mounts...
The good thing about these knuckles is they are insanley strong. Thick as hell and reinforced all over. I doubt I'll ever break one. If they can drive a 1:1 over it I don't think I'll have a problem...
I thought about adding weight to the big flat spots on the axles. You can stack 3 cells there (2 on bottom, 1 on top like a pyramid) or fit an ESC or just some weights no problem...
Since this pic was taken I've ground off the sterring stops.
kjr2- I would be inclined to do just what you said, strap weight to the axle tubes or run a custom battery pack. I know a few guys who run the AA's. The Energizer 2100s can be bought at Wally World for cheap and they are good cells. I've heard running 8 of the AA's at 9.6v is the way to go, if your ESC can handle it. That brings them up more in line with sub-C's as far as punch.
jagg- For more clearance you may be able to run a bent drag link from the servo saver to get the ballend more flat and closer to the saver... Thats the way I ran mine. The ballend screw barely cleared the motor can.
Tom- thanks for the kudos
jagg- For more clearance you may be able to run a bent drag link from the servo saver to get the ballend more flat and closer to the saver... Thats the way I ran mine. The ballend screw barely cleared the motor can.
Tom- thanks for the kudos
jagg
Well-Known Member
Thanks Gimbal, got thinkin' about that last night. I'm waiting on some adj. motor mounts from highster. When those come in I'll know for sure where everything will fit.
Kenny...If you have an outdoors store close to you, check out the lead weight sinkers for fishing. They come in all different sizes, and you might find the right size to fit the spaces in your hubs. Just another off the wall option :willy
. Something like these or what ever might fit. And besides they can still be trimmed to fit proper and they are cheap.
Kenny...If you have an outdoors store close to you, check out the lead weight sinkers for fishing. They come in all different sizes, and you might find the right size to fit the spaces in your hubs. Just another off the wall option :willy
. Something like these or what ever might fit. And besides they can still be trimmed to fit proper and they are cheap.
jagg
Well-Known Member
I'd be really surprised if they didn't.
BTW, I dug out the warranty card and found the 120 day LIMITED warranty spescs. Basically states that all products are guaranted to be free from all defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 120 day of purchase. If within the 120 days according to the sales reciept, that there is a defect with the unit they will repair or replace the unit(at thier option). However if there is abuse or misuse, or accident, I could have to pay up to a maximun of up to 50% of the original price for repairs or replacement(at their option).
" This warranty does not cover components worn by use, application of reverse voltage, cross connections, poor installation, subjection of components to foreigh materials, any alterations to wires, or tampering. In no case shall our liabillity exceed the original cost of the unit. "
So there goes the Deans connectors and the direct motor soldering(not a chance said under my breath). Basically carries the same warranty as othe products I've bought. The minute you change the plugs your done in for it warranty wise. Figure if I get that servo regulator Gimbal showed us ant the spec rating on the 8T, I should be pretty good.
BTW, I dug out the warranty card and found the 120 day LIMITED warranty spescs. Basically states that all products are guaranted to be free from all defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 120 day of purchase. If within the 120 days according to the sales reciept, that there is a defect with the unit they will repair or replace the unit(at thier option). However if there is abuse or misuse, or accident, I could have to pay up to a maximun of up to 50% of the original price for repairs or replacement(at their option).
" This warranty does not cover components worn by use, application of reverse voltage, cross connections, poor installation, subjection of components to foreigh materials, any alterations to wires, or tampering. In no case shall our liabillity exceed the original cost of the unit. "
So there goes the Deans connectors and the direct motor soldering(not a chance said under my breath). Basically carries the same warranty as othe products I've bought. The minute you change the plugs your done in for it warranty wise. Figure if I get that servo regulator Gimbal showed us ant the spec rating on the 8T, I should be pretty good.
kjr2
Old Timer
"any alterations to wires"
Sucks. But Traxxas and Novak do that too. My last Novak had a big paper that said changing the plugs viods any/all warranty Traxxas charges a $25 fee if you send in one of their ESCs for repair and it's got a good plug on it :roll
Whatever. Deans is the only way I roll!
Sucks. But Traxxas and Novak do that too. My last Novak had a big paper that said changing the plugs viods any/all warranty
Traxxas charges a $25 fee if you send in one of their ESCs for repair and it's got a good plug on it :rollWhatever. Deans is the only way I roll!