I really like the bumpers, and all the ''bits'' that they added on it as well as the wheels, much nicer than the F350 and 80's yota kit components.
It's just that body I don't care for, soccer mom grocery getter look. IMHO real trucks don't have back seats, they have 8ft beds and a big v8.
I would like to build one and swap a chevy, or f350 body into that kit. However right now I am hooked on the CORR type race trucks. :wnk
Please keep us posted, I have not seen one of these built yet, should be cool to see done.
It's just that body I don't care for, soccer mom grocery getter look. IMHO real trucks don't have back seats, they have 8ft beds and a big v8.
I would like to build one and swap a chevy, or f350 body into that kit. However right now I am hooked on the CORR type race trucks. :wnk
Please keep us posted, I have not seen one of these built yet, should be cool to see done.
I'll do my best to take pics and post along the way but usually when I sit down with a kit I get lost in it and before I think about taking pics it built LOL. I plan on leaving it pretty much stock but I do have a set of RC4WD 1.9 crushers for it.
I thought about the older Toyota but it has been done so much I'm a little burnt out on them...The F-3530 is out because I don't do Ford! If a Chevy body was an option that would have been an easy choice.
BTW: My 1.1 is a Reg cab 5.7 Chevy!
I thought about the older Toyota but it has been done so much I'm a little burnt out on them...The F-3530 is out because I don't do Ford! If a Chevy body was an option that would have been an easy choice.
BTW: My 1.1 is a Reg cab 5.7 Chevy!
rccrawler1
Well-Known Member
off ya go:tmb:drool:snail
I am using bushings because it will run in mud and water, I hoping the bushings in this hold up as good as they did in my TXT. That thing was always in mud and the bushing lasted a loooong time.
The tranny is very cool, once it was together I sat there spinning the shaft and shifting gears like a little kid LOL
Yep it has extra holes to raise the tranny, the kit also includes a second set of blocks for the leaf springs that are slightly angled. The instructions don't say anything about them but it looks like they are meant to keep the drive shafts straight if you do use the tranny lift, the angled blocks would slightly tilt the axle.
I love that the axles can be locked and unlocked without gluing/bonding gears together, remove a rubber plug and pull the diff locking pin and they or unlocked.
spinout180
Well-Known Member
Great build, Butters 
. I'll be following along to see how it turns out. I'm trying to stick to my promise of not buying another rc till all my current ones are done, but you guys make it tough:tong. That tranny is sweet, I always wanted a multi-speed gearbox in one of my rigs.
Troy.
. I'll be following along to see how it turns out. I'm trying to stick to my promise of not buying another rc till all my current ones are done, but you guys make it tough:tong. That tranny is sweet, I always wanted a multi-speed gearbox in one of my rigs.Troy.
W
William
Guest
Hey that didn't take you long at all. :tong
The angled blocks are mentioned way in the back pages to give it some caster. If you do though the front driveshaft has a wicked angle to it. I'd leave the front at zero, and just do the back if you thought you needed to save some rear shaft angle.
There is enough driveshaft extension to "double block" the axles and gain an easy 10mm of height. Which is good because it lifts that low hanging transfercase. I did that to the F350's I built mainly because I opted for 2.2's.
The angled blocks are mentioned way in the back pages to give it some caster. If you do though the front driveshaft has a wicked angle to it. I'd leave the front at zero, and just do the back if you thought you needed to save some rear shaft angle.
There is enough driveshaft extension to "double block" the axles and gain an easy 10mm of height. Which is good because it lifts that low hanging transfercase. I did that to the F350's I built mainly because I opted for 2.2's.
I might look into adding the second set of blocks. I went back and lifted the tranny (and the battery holder) and that added about 8mm of clearance, so if I add the blocks I could get a full 18mm of added clearance and then maybe the rock crushers would fit.
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Thanks Tom, it is a great build IMO. The chassis has an extra set of mounting holes to lift the tranny, you would have to swap out the F-350 frame rails for the Tundra frame rails. I'm not sure about the Hilux?? If you look at the first pic I posted of the tranny on the frame you can see extra holes above each of the tranny screws, thats the lift.
The front bar and lights are all plastic but they bolt to an aluminum brace which bolts to a metal brace which bolts to the chassis....Lots of parts for a push bar.
Here a shot of the push bar, you can see where the plastic meets aluminum.
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